The only thing I will add, is to never leave a primer installed flush or protruding for a semi-auto or auto, cause those slam fire contexts are an actual risk compared to the ones from an inertial puller.
Some military ammo has the bullets sealed with an asphalt like substance that basically glues the bullet to the case neck. To remove those I found a tool at Harbor Freight that I use to wiggle the bullet before using the inertia bullet puller to break the seal.Yes, was a 20 plus year old piece of brass, that spent its life in a die box, for use as a gauge. Have no clue why I thought I might need a gauge for a 22-250, but I made and kept one anyway. Yes later while stream lining my handloading equipment, I found this case, with a bullet and a live primer in it. The bullet had cold welded itself to the case. In my ignorance I loaded it in my inertia puller and started hammering. Could have pushed the bullet in a little deeper with a seating die, but at that time, the thought never occurred to me. Long story short the primer went bang. Gladly no powder was involved. Guess back in the day a single primer was no big deal.
and, of course, never try to seat a primer deeper once the round is loaded.The only thing I will add, is to never leave a primer installed flush or protruding for a semi-auto or auto, cause those slam fire contexts are an actual risk compared to the ones from an inertial puller.
I'm using the Lyman brand. So far, it works great and has lasted well over 5 years. The important thing is to use the right collet size and a very hard surface to strike. Again, if you keep your face away from the encased round I don't think you'd need to worry about the primer.DGP4 in pulling those bullets what brand did you use?? i have destroyed several pullers and have never found one that would last.
I had a primer ignite in my inertia puller thats why I asked! I did a search and found this article. Crazy! https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/inertia-bullet-puller-mishap.3847327/