Breaking into a gun safe?

[andrews1958]

Most of the gun safe companies advertise/ emphasise about how strong their gun safe doors are. Thick steel. Numerous dead bolts and the best of manual or electric dials.

Would not it be easier to go through the side wall of the safe with an electric hand or circular saw. It is just bare metal which should be much easier to cut and open

 

[wolley]

Probably. But throwing it on its back and going at the door with a large crow bar will get you in much quicker.
Bolt your safe down and put in a corner so they can't get swing room to use a bar on the door.

 

[Rustystud]

The door on good safes are the strongest side. I would bet that I could get into your safe in 20 minutes and you could get it fix back where you didn't know I had ever been there.
Taking the top off with a carbide bit steel circular saw is by far the best method. "Cold sawing" I would for safety sake fill the safe with argon or Co2. The saw blade I am talking about cost me $188.00. Will cut a rifle barrel off in 10 seconds, 3/4" rebar in 10 seconds. I bought it to cut off steel doors. Have opened up several safes with it.
Nat Lambeth

 

[OIF/OEF]

I just weld mine completely shut Now I nor anyone else can get to my guns lol. Bolt to the floor heck if your that paranoid find a way to run cables through the action. A thief with time will get what they want the steps we put in place are to slow them down or intimidate the lazy unskilled ones. We have a diner close by that one of theyre big stainless freezers went out they said I could have it. Once I put a couple locks on it thatll be my next safe/powder storage locker.

 

[missed]

Yeah most commercial "safes" are easy to get into. It's all about the additional barriers, my safe I built, 12 gauge steel skin with 2" of concrete with 3\8" rebar between the skin. My safe is also in a CMU room within the shop. You have to get in the shop, past the security system, then into the gun room, then into the safe. The safe is also in a pocket within that room. It's a pain the butt to move as it weights almost #4000, but when I built it I have less than a grand in it.

 

[Eddie Harren]

Turn it upside down and cut the bottom out. They are usually just one plate of steel. All the oldtime safe burglars did this.

 

[JRS]

A small porta power. No screaming noise from a hot saw waking the neighbors 2 miles away ;D

 

[missed]

A small porta power. No screaming noise from a hot saw waking the neighbors 2 miles away ;D

That is a very good one there.

 

[dickn52]

I always found that 2ozs of military grade C4 on the front hinges worked best. Now we are talking about waking up everyone.

 

[loneranger04]

Short of building a bank vault the only thing that gun safes are good for are to protect against the smash and grabs. Any dedicated thief can get into any of them if he has the time, talent and tools. I've taken a different approach. I've added the safelert that Liberty sells. It tells me when the door is open, when the safe has been moved or jiggled and when the door has been closed. Also gives me a weekly humidity and temp reading. Still not fool proof however I think my next addition will be a nanny cam that uploads everything to cloud. The other thing you can do is store large amounts of powder in your safe with a warning sign stating that this is a powder magazine and sparks or flame will set off an explosion.

We had a neighbor that put his safe upstairs where he didn't think anyone would/could access it and the thieves tied a cable around it and pulled it from the house with a four wheel drive truck. Gun safes only slow down the bad guys. If you think any differently you are only kidding yourself.

 

[missed]

I have a surveillance system at the house, with motion sensors in the house and shop that send me a text and email when there is motion detected. It's all about layers and not one single thing.

 

[people]

Turn it upside down and cut the bottom out. They are usually just one plate of steel. All the oldtime safe burglars did this.

If they do not bolt them down yes that is the easiest way. Almost easier than using combo.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I have a surveillance system at the house, with motion sensors in the house and shop that send me a text and email when there is motion detected. It's all about layers and not one single thing.

Same here. Door and window contacts, garage door tilt sensor, as well as a motion detectors, smoke detectors tied into the system, and 90 decibel siren above safe and out of reach. System sends me text and email when it detects fire or security breach. If they break that siren, theres a second siren in another hard to access location of my house. System also has a UPS power backup in case a thief thinks he can cut power to the home to defeat the system. The more layers the better.

I've taken a different approach. I've added the safelert that Liberty sells. It tells me when the door is open, when the safe has been moved or jiggled and when the door has been closed. Also gives me a weekly humidity and temp reading.

The Liberty safealert is ok, but a poor and minimally effective security system IMO. A "real" home security system will alert you and neighbors and probably deter a thief before he ever gets into the home to realize you even own a safe

 

[missed]

You know what would be awesome would be a decoy safe, when you get in it the room it's in slams shut so they can't get out. Or a trap door in front of it.....

 

[Joe Salt]

Tip mine over it weighs 1600 lbs. And do it before the ADT wireless goes off. And if my Son is working deal with him! And If I'm around you're really in deep DODO.

Joe Salt

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Tip mine over it weighs 1600 lbs. And do it before the ADT wireless goes off. And if my Son is working deal with him! And If I'm around you're really in deep DODO.

Joe Salt

Yeah tipping over a heavy duty safe thats anchored to concrete aint gonna happen too easy. ;D

My bare safe is 1250lbs. With guns and other things Id guess it isnt anywhere under 1450 lbs. Add in the Red Head concrete anchors and youd have a tough time pulling it over with a truck

 

[Swampbuck]

I use the running from a bear method. You don't have to run faster than the bear just faster than your buddy. I think my guns are pretty safe in my safe considering the pawn shop/ gun dealer up the road has his behind glass doors and nobody has reason to believe my guns are superior to his wares. Sure someone could steal my guns but these dedicated thieves with experience tools and know how that everyone is talking about would probably find another house and save there $188 dollar saw blade.

 

[Rustystud]

The safe in my shop came from a bank. It weighs 12 Tons and has an electric motor to open the door. The doors and sides have double wall 1/4" A500 steel plate with 8" of concrete. The door has 12, two inch steel bars that go out into the steel door frame. I probably could break into this safe given the right tools and enough time.
Nat Lambeth

 

[Ledd Slinger]

The safe in my shop came from a bank. It weighs 12 Tons and has an electric motor to open the door. The doors and sides have double wall 1/4" A500 steel plate with 8" of concrete. The door has 12, two inch steel bars that go out into the steel door frame. I probably could break into this safe given the right tools and enough time.
Nat Lambeth

Thats insane! Lol. Might need a Tomahawk cruise missile to crack that bunker! Lol ;D

 

[Drop Port]

I always found that 2ozs of military grade C4 on the front hinges worked best. Now we are talking about waking up everyone.

If it were legal I would use 6oz and a mercury switch. With DNA they should be able to tell if its a known thief