Brass Sizing.

[Kracken McGraw]

I'm happy your stiff bolt closure was cured, but Boyd is right. Before you size all 200 cases, I would make the modest investment in a Hornady "Headspace" [sic] tool, the appropriate comparator bushing, and a good dial caliper if you don't already have one. You really shouldn't be sizing by dead reckoning.

PS Consider a set of Redding Competition Shell Holders. These allow you to always cam over on a shell holder (for repeatability) after you determine which of the set of incremented holders yields the shoulder bump of .001 to .002 you may desire.
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On the competition shell holders, do you still screw dies down an eighth of a turn past top stroke like regular shell holders.

 

[Brians356]

On the competition shell holders, do you still screw dies down an eighth of a turn past top stroke like regular shell holders.

Yes, starting with the tallest one (+.010) and working down towards +.002, stopping when one gives the desired bump.
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[Kracken McGraw]

Yes, starting with the tallest one (+.010) and working down towards +.002, stopping when one gives the desired bump.
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Ok that's the best explanation I've heard. Think I'll get a set headed this way. I just turned the double nickel and getting the dust and rust knocked off the old rockchucker and charge master after a 30 year something delay. Really looking foward to having time to do it again!

 

[onelastshot]

I'm happy your stiff bolt closure was cured, but Boyd is right. Before you size all 200 cases, I would make the modest investment in a Hornady "Headspace" [sic] tool, the appropriate comparator bushing, and a good dial caliper if you don't already have one. You really shouldn't be sizing by dead reckoning.

PS Consider a set of Redding Competition Shell Holders. These allow you to always cam over on a shell holder (for repeatability) after you determine which of the set of incremented holders yields the shoulder bump of .001 to .002 you may desire.
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I've got a good dial caliper and I ordered a set of redding Competition Shell Holders today. On Monday I'll contact Brownells to figure out what headspace tool and comparator bushing I need.

 

[Brians356]

I've got a good dial caliper and I ordered a set of redding Competition Shell Holders today. On Monday I'll contact Brownells to figure out what headspace tool and comparator bushing I need.

I hope you ordered the correct shell holder set for you cartridge rim.

The Hornady headspace tool and shoulder bushings are available off the shelf at my local Sportsman's Warehouse. It doubles (with appropriate bullet comparators) as cartridge-to-bullet-ogive length gauge as well, so it's by far the most popular such tool I'd wager.
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[fguffey]

On the competition shell holders, do you still screw dies down an eighth of a turn past top stroke like regular shell holders.

I did not see the question mark: Yes, they say that is the big advantage over the way I size cases for long chambers. Reloaders do not understand the die and shell holders is a limiter for reducing the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head. Meaning! Once the die contacts the shell holder the amount or ability of the press to reduce the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head ends unless we are talking about the ability of the press to overcome the case's ability to resist sizing. Before the Redding shell holder I use the feeler gage to limit sizing, after the invention of the Redding Competition shell holders I still use the feeler gage. I do not adjust the die down to the shell holder, I adjust the die off the shell holder by creating a gap created by the feeler gage. Again, I have one 30/06 chamber that is .016" longer than a minimum length/full length sized case, when sizing/forming cases for that rifle I adjust the die off the shell holder .014"; why .014"? I want that magic .002" clearance.

F. Guffey

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I did not see the question mark: Yes, they say that is the big advantage over the way I size cases for long chambers. Reloaders do not understand the die and shell holders is a limiter for reducing the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head. Meaning! Once the die contacts the shell holder the amount or ability of the press to reduce the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head ends unless we are talking about the ability of the press to overcome the case's ability to resist sizing. Before the Redding shell holder I use the feeler gage to limit sizing, after the invention of the Redding Competition shell holders I still use the feeler gage. I do not adjust the die down to the shell holder, I adjust the die off the shell holder by creating a gap created by the feeler gage. Again, I have one 30/06 chamber that is .016" longer than a minimum length/full length sized case, when sizing/forming cases for that rifle I adjust the die off the shell holder .014"; why .014"? I want that magic .002" clearance.

F. Guffey

Yes F Guffey, that should have been a question mark. I quess some of my school teachers let my Grammar slide because they thought all I was going to see was cows and windmills anyways. Your feeler gauge idea sounds solid, got a set in a old tool box around here somewhere, I'll give it a shot.

 

[Lone Hunter]

Yes, starting with the tallest one (+.010) and working down towards +.002, stopping when one gives the desired bump.
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What Brians356 said. I have the comp shellholders and they do work. They are expensive but it beats sanding one down and going too far with the sanding or not getting it level. I think they are worth the money and time.

 

[fguffey]

What Brians356 said. I have the comp shellholders and they do work. They are expensive but it beats sanding one down and going too far with the sanding or not getting it level. I think they are worth the money and time.

Sanding it down or not getting it level? What did Brian356 say that would lead you to believe could make a competition/Redding type shell holder by grinding. I have three grinders that grinds pilots, tapers and gages to length. To make a Redding Competition type shell holder I have to add to the deck height of the shell holder.

I can form cases for short chambers without grinding the shell holder and or bottom of the die, the method/technique does require a small amount of concentration.

F. Guffey

 

[Kracken McGraw]

While this thread is still going, had another question. I bought some new 6.5 CM hornady brass. This is the first new brass that I have ever had. I have not sized it yet. As it sits it measures two thousands shorter than my once fired brass out of my rifle chamber. My question is do I need to full length cam over resize or just to bump it back 1 or2 thousands like a true reload.

 

[Lone Hunter]

If it's .002 shorter that would be about where you want it. I size my once fired brass .001 on my match rifles and .002 on my hunting rifles. See if it will chamber like it is. If it does shoot it without resizing then bump it back to your desired bump afterward.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

If it's .002 shorter that would be about where you want it. I size my once fired brass .001 on my match rifles and .002 on my hunting rifles. See if it will chamber like it is. If it does shoot it without resizing then bump it back to your desired bump afterward.

Yes I thought it would work the size it is too, but I was trying my redding flash hole deburing tool and the 6.5 pilot would not go in the neck. So I think the neck is going to have to go over the expander ball on the sizer die.

 

[L W P]

Yes I thought it would work the size it is too, but I was trying my redding flash hole deburing tool and the 6.5 pilot would not go in the neck. So I think the neck is going to have to go over the expander ball on the sizer die.

If you happen to buy the 6.5 Creedmoor Lapua small primer brass (which is the best IMO) be sure to use an over sized mandrel (.264" from Sinclair) on the virgin brass. I've found that my 6.5 Creedmoor and 6.5 Grendel brass from Lapua have a very tight neck(.258"-.259") out of the box. I know you and some others are thinking that if you us a .264" mandrel on a piece of brass how the heck is that going to hold a .264: bullet. Well on these virgin Lapua brass the necks will bounce back to around .263" to .2625 after using the over size mandrel. Which is plenty to hold the bullet. After 1st firing I use a .290 bushing with either my F/L or N/S Redding dies.

 

[L W P]

Also I do agree with the others that you need to invest in a set of Hornady case shoulder measuring tools. And some of the other tools like these. Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Gauge Bolt Action,[URL='https://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gauge-5-bushing-set-with-comparator'][URL='https://www.midwayusa.com/product/387209/hornady-lock-n-load-overall-length-gauge-modified-case-65-creedmoor']Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Gauge Modified Case 6.5 Creedmoor ,[URL='https://www.midwayusa.com/product/261048/hornady-lock-n-load-bullet-comparator-insert-264-diameter']Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Insert 264 Diameter[/URL][/URL][/URL] ,[URL='https://www.midwayusa.com/product/709931/hornady-lock-n-load-bullet-comparator-body']Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Body,[/URL]Hornady Cartridge Headspace Gauge Bushing 375 Diameter(for the Creedmoor)[URL='https://www.midwayusa.com/product/479704/hornady-lock-n-load-headspace-gauge-5-bushing-set-with-comparator'][URL='https://www.midwayusa.com/product/387209/hornady-lock-n-load-overall-length-gauge-modified-case-65-creedmoor#details'] [/URL] [URL='https://www.midwayusa.com/product/231904/hornady-lock-n-load-bullet-comparator-basic-set-with-6-inserts#details'] [/URL] [/URL]

 

[L W P]

I am curios though if anyone else has noticed the tight necks on the virgin Lapua brass in 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5 Grendel?

 

[L W P]

Also just another note on the 6.5 Creedmor brass small primer pocket from Lapua, if you do purchase some make sure that what ever brand die that you have has a small (.057") primer decapping pin in it. Because that's what it takes for the Lapua small primer pocket brass.

 

[Richard Coody]

I am curios though if anyone else has noticed the tight necks on the virgin Lapua brass in 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5 Grendel?

I run an expander mandrel through all my new.lapua brass

 

[Kracken McGraw]

If you happen to buy the 6.5 Creedmoor Lapua small primer brass (which is the best IMO) be sure to use an over sized mandrel (.264" from Sinclair) on the virgin brass. I've found that my 6.5 Creedmoor and 6.5 Grendel brass from Lapua have a very tight neck(.258"-.259") out of the box. I know you and some others are thinking that if you us a .264" mandrel on a piece of brass how the heck is that going to hold a .264: bullet. Well on these virgin Lapua brass the necks will bounce back to around .263" to .2625 after using the over size mandrel. Which is plenty to hold the bullet. After 1st firing I use a .290 bushing with either my F/L or N/S Redding dies.

LWP that is very good info and I will put it in my notebook. I'm sure the Lapua brass will be used in the future, but need to justify the stock of LRP I purchased. Waiting on the competition shellholders I ordered so maybe I can get this newHornady brass sized to fit my chamber the best. Thanks for your input.

 

[L W P]

I run an expander mandrel through all my new.lapua brass

Hey Richard, have you ever tried the Lapua brass in 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5 Grendel ? Because I've found it to have a really tight inside neck dia. on the virgin cases. I have never had that tightness on my 308 or 6 BR Lapua before. Like I said I actually had to use an over size (.264) mandrel on those two different Lapua rifle cases. I never had to expand the inside neck so much. And on my virgin Lapua brass in my 308 I do expand the necks with my expander ball in my Redding N/K bushing die which puts the neck tension just right to seat a bullet with my Wilson seater. It must be that for some reason Lapua's line on 6.5 cartridge brass is a little tighter on the necks out of the box. So I was just wondering if it's me or has someone else noticed this also?

 

[L W P]

Also McGraw, I don't know which style seater die that you are using ( threaded or arbor press) but I use my Wilson seater die for a case gauge too. I would think that a threaded seater would work in the same manner. By that I mean on my once fired cases I'll check to see if they are able to be inserted into my seater die (by hand only) and easily be removed once they are completely up in the seater die, flush with the bottom of the die. If there's a question on if they are all of the way up in the die and flush with the bottom I'll do a quick check with a flat surface to see if any of the case sticks out passed the bottom of the seater die. The reason that I check them this way is to determine if I want to neck size only or full length resize my brass. If they stick out of the bottom of my seater die then those fired cases get full length resized. If they are flush I know that I can only have to neck size and they will easily go back into my rifle. Note that I check my fired cases this way after each firing because after one or more firings I'll have to sometimes full length size them, depending on how much the brass gets worked from my loads. Hope you are able to understand my ramble? It's just my method and I thought I'd pass it along.