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Brake cleaner to degrease before spraying?

Acetone. Soap has some kind of fats in it. When you use it on boat carpet it builds up and it gets matted down. You have to scrub it with vinegar to break that down so the carpet gets fluffed again so im sure it leaves a residue on anything you wash. I use acetone or if im going to paint i use a wax and oil remover made by the car paint mfrs.
Dawn Ultra :

Water (Solvent), Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (Cleaning Agent), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (Cleaning Agent), Lauramine Oxide (Cleaning Agent), Alcohol Denat. (Solvent), Sodium Chloride (Viscosity Adjuster), PPG 26 (Viscosity Adjuster), Sodium Hydroxide (PH Adjuster), Phenoxyethanol (Solvent), Methylisothiazolinone (Preservative)
 
Methylene chloride is generally more effective for cleaning oils grease and such from metals ( Yep Aircraft stripper )

Most all brake cleaning aresols contain ; acetone, xylene, toluene, sometimes mineral spirits along with a propellant .

I simply listed readily available products which anyone can safely use , that do a real good job of cleaning surfaces and also open metal pores ,so as to get a Bite and Bind too the substrate .

When applying ANY coating the object is LONGEVITY DURABILITY and ENCAPSULATION .

The Very Best substrate should have a Mechanical as well as covalent bond ,this ensures YOU have done everything possible . Should the coating fail , You didn't choose the correct type or the brand name used inferior ingredients ,known as fillers .
 
You can buy it at auto parts stores, wal mart, etc. but it isn’t the same stuff as it used to be. The good stuff was 111 Trichloroethane.
It must be the state I live in, but every brake cleaner on the shelf prominently states "non-chlorinated". And a friend in another state (Texas) bemoans the unavailability there of the old chlorinated brake cleaner. If you can cite a specific product name that's still chlorinated where you shop, I'll look for it.
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Starting fluid, two coats, let dry in-between. Then spray the release agent off the action when you are done with the bedding job.

I have used a lot of brake cleaner over the years on my own guns, Starting Fluid is a step above.
 
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From every post touting naptha (or lighter fluid) as a cleaner/lubricant for triggers.
You must have missed this one which I previously posted twice:


I ran an experiment: I cleaned an inch-square portion a plate of glass squeaky clean using Gun Scrubber and paper towel. Then I poured a small puddle of Kingsford charcoal lighter fluid on that spot and let it evaporate for a few hours. With a desk lamp reflecting off the glass, I could not see any residue or film remaining. Then I took a fresh strip of Scotch Magic Tape and stuck it firmly where the lighter fluid had evaporated, rubbing it down and letting it "seat" for a minute. I then grasped one end of the tape strip and peeled it off. It took the same force to peel from the glass as when I subsequently ran the same tape test on glass cleaned only with Gun Scrubber. If there was the faintest "film" of lubricant on that glass, the tape simply would not stick nearly as well if at all. Looking at it another way: Any film of lubricant slight enough not to affect the tape would also be too slight to provide any lubricating effect on a trigger.
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It must be the state I live in, but every brake cleaner on the shelf prominently states "non-chlorinated". And a friend in another state (Texas) bemoans the unavailability there of the old chlorinated brake cleaner. If you can cite a specific product name that's still chlorinated where you shop, I'll look for it.
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Because I once sold Berryman products, I’m biased to that brand but there are many choices. Google is your friend.
 
1,1,1-Trichloroethane has been on the EPA hit list for Years ,the aircraft industry used to bathe in it . USED TOO ! . Not anymore ,machine shops used to use hot solvent tanks with it also ,Hughes aircraft ,lockeed ,Boeing but NO more .

FYI : Berryman's Brake cleaner contains chlorinated solvents perchloro-ethylene (a.k.a. tetrachloroethylene) and methylene chloride. These are non-flammable solvents that are extremely fast-drying and provide the best cleaning for brake parts.

perchloro-ethylene substituted 1,1,1-Trichloroethane ,aka Methyl chloroform , as a dry cleaning agent in the 1930-50's .

It also was used early as an anesthesia in Dentistry . 1,1,1-Trichloroethane is derived from ethylene or vinyl chloride .

Perchloroethylene is the same solvent used for years as dry cleaning fluid. Many chlorinated brake cleaners are made up entirely of this component, occasionally with other heavy solvents to add weight. Methylene chloride is a primary component of paint stripper and is lighter. The combination of the two makes for a superior blend that provides more actual fluid content in the container for the weight versus perchloroethylene alone. Methylene chloride also has more caloric energy for dissolving grease, oil and other contaminants that are found on brake parts.

Only large scale usage I'm aware of is plastics by product manufacturing of polyvinylchloride ( PVC ) vinylidene chloride .
 
Because I once sold Berryman products, I’m biased to that brand but there are many choices. Google is your friend.
Found it:

Berryman® Non-Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner [NOT VOC Compliant in some states]

o_O
 
Found it:

Berryman® Non-Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner [NOT VOC Compliant in some states]

o_O

You are comparing apples to oranges Chlorinated verses Non chlorinated . VOC stands for
Volatile organic compounds .

Berryman® Chlorinated Brake Parts Cleaner [VOC Compliant in all 50 States]​



Quickly and effortlessly dissolves brake fluid, brake dust, grease, motor oil, power steering fluid, and other contaminants from all metal brake parts, including rotors, drums, calipers, cylinders, springs, and other related parts. Professional-strength formula dries completely without residue. Stops disc brake squeal. Strongest ARB-compliant brake cleaner available.
 
From every post touting naptha (or lighter fluid) as a cleaner/lubricant for triggers.
Jewel recommends using Lighter Fluid as a cleaner for their triggers , but makes no mention of any lubrication for doing so . Rinse internally , and blow off with low pressure air , or let dry by evaporation is their guidance .
 
My answer in post #30 wasn't very popular either, apparently, these guys don't want to hear about the correct product.
It certainly is worth the money. 1 quart lasts a while if you only paint once in a blue moon.

There is more to the Grease and Wax remover products than one might think. I for sure noticed the paint jobs (automotive) come out better.
 

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