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Brake cleaner to degrease before spraying?

We all know that prep is 99% of any good finish- regardless of which method/product you go with.

Would there be any ill effect to using brake cleaner to spray down a barreled action as a final degrease/rinse before applying a coating of one's choice?

If not brake cleaner, than what?
Use brake cleaner or tert-butyl acetate. Prep is 95% of the cost of coating a firearm. Most people don’t understand how long it takes to get the oils out of guns, especially the AKs and bolt actions with anti seize in the tenon. (Hint: there is no shortcut). When I had my coatings business the method was to deep soak in a tank with brakleen, gas out in the oven, blast, back in the oven, soak if necessary, blast, repeat until all metal parts could go for 2hrs in the oven without a wet spot showing up, spray down with tert-butyl acetate, let dry and apply the coating. Never had a failure and a huge portion of my business was fixing other shops mistakes.
 
See attached. Many long days removing oils.
 

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We all know that prep is 99% of any good finish- regardless of which method/product you go with.

Would there be any ill effect to using brake cleaner to spray down a barreled action as a final degrease/rinse before applying a coating of one's choice?

If not brake cleaner, than what?
I use brake cleaner prior to steel wool when applying Cerakote to steel. Then alcohol last.
 
Ultra cleaning can be accomplished by Ultrasonic cleaning ,with proper cleaning medium . Industrial #3 or more transducer running variable frequency units , do a Terrific Job in fairly short order .

I was privileged to have had an outstanding conversation Many years ago ,with the Daughter of the man who invented the Parkerizing process . Sometime later she was kind enough to send her fathers Notes and experiment conclusions . I used to do a fair amount of Military hardware Parkerizing ,as in Matching different Era weapons accessories . So being in the Chemical trades so to speak ,led Me down the road of ultrasonic cleaning and I never looked back .
 
I built race engines for a living --we went through lots of brake cleaner for when you just needed to fast final clean small parts before assembly--Until--we attended a seminar by the great Smokey Yunick--He demonstrated that a small part sprayed with Brake cleaner would Not hold oil --oil would slip right off the part--Brake cleaner is best used for the intended purpose--as shown here plenty of products more correct for pre paint. Good topic--lots of tricks to learn Thanks
 
I built race engines for a living --we went through lots of brake cleaner for when you just needed to fast final clean small parts before assembly--Until--we attended a seminar by the great Smokey Yunick--He demonstrated that a small part sprayed with Brake cleaner would Not hold oil --oil would slip right off the part--Brake cleaner is best used for the intended purpose--as shown here plenty of products more correct for pre paint. Good topic--lots of tricks to learn Thanks
I don't believe a part sprayed with brake cleaner will not hold oil. Could you describe that demonstration so I can attempt recreate it.
 
Why I don't recommend starting fluids for cleaning and coating .

Starting Fluid ; Historically, Diethyl ether with a small amount of oil, a trace amount of a stabilizer and a hydrocarbon propellant has been used to help start internal combustion engines because of its low 160 °C (320 °F) auto-ignition temperature . Also Diethyl ether is different from petroleum ether as different brands of starting fluids contain different chemicals and properties .

For absolute clean metal ,a de greasing detergent so as to remove any oils or fats ( fingerprints contain trace amounts of oil . Followed by a powerful solvent , such as acetone and or lacquer thinner .

Depending upon what I'm coating Metal and with what . I'll dip the part in acid . Hydrochloric normally 22-23 baume or 38% solution ,followed by a quick neutralizing dip and water rinse ,then submerged into solvent solution ,until ready to coat . Doing this procedure allows for maximum mechanical bonding ,hopefully followed by a covalent or chemical bonding . Preclude to Parkerizing .

Pool or Muratic acid can be used also , Just Be damn careful when handling ANY chemicals , WEAR eye and hand along with clothing protection . It not unlike reloading only takes one mistake and YOU live with it .

MOST Acids are extremely dangerous for inhalation as well as burning skin ( including Your lungs ) , so FULL ventilation and proper respirator is HIGHLY recommended .
 

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