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Box Stands for Deer Hunting

Thank you very much for posting that picture. We are planning to build 2 or 3 new box stands this spring and that's the kind of idea we are looking for. I am especially interested in how the interior is set up. What kind of amenities are built inside ? etc. Thanks again for all that posted pictures. Please continue to share pictures of your "condos" with any additional information that would be helpful....
 
Thanks Pete, that’s a 5’x7’ up 22ft to the floor. All was built in panels and units for assembly in the woods. I used the 2500lb flat ropes to raise the components with a F250. Shelves were added to the stud interior just like conventional box framing. The hip roof offers 16” overhang to keep the glass dry and clean. After a season in that one I built a 6’x8’ on a 10’ moon lander style frame that doesn’t require a tree. I have another 6’x8’ in the works for this winters project! Come spring I will get it on site for the deer to get used to! It takes a full season for that to happen.
 
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I'm building one this coming spring. It will be a 6x6. The deck will be 8' off the ground as it will sit IN a wooded setting so the need to see under the lowest tree branches is important. I will have a floor hatch for entry so I can have a full 360 view thru 10" tall six foot wide windows in all four walls. There will also be a shooting shelf under all four windows inside that measures 14" deep and the width of each wall. They will all be on hinges so all can be set up or which ever ones necessary. The 6x6 isn't obviously as roomy as a 6x8 but plenty big for two.
 
I have built three tower blinds, two rolling blinds (on wagon frames), one skidding blind (5X5), and four bow blinds. 4X4 is too small for one person. It's like sitting in a phone booth. 4X6 and 5X5 are too small for two adults. I had a six sided (hexagonal) blind 12' above grade. All of the sides were 4' wide. That was a sweet blind but took too long to heat up and shook too much in high winds. After a storm blew it over, I replaced it with a 5 sided pentagon blind with each side being 4' wide. That will comfortably hold two people but is ideal for one. it's only 8' above grade.

Make sure that your windows are high enough. It's much easier to raise a person up high enough to see out comfortably than it is to lower the floor or raise the window and it is truly miserable to have to duck down all the time to see out the windows.

For a tower blind, a trap door up through the floor has advantages over a side entry. The skidding blind can be dragged around behind a tractor to where it seems needed. The rolling blinds are great for the edges of large fields.
 
I have built three tower blinds, two rolling blinds (on wagon frames), one skidding blind (5X5), and four bow blinds. 4X4 is too small for one person. It's like sitting in a phone booth. 4X6 and 5X5 are too small for two adults. I had a six sided (hexagonal) blind 12' above grade. All of the sides were 4' wide. That was a sweet blind but took too long to heat up and shook too much in high winds. After a storm blew it over, I replaced it with a 5 sided pentagon blind with each side being 4' wide. That will comfortably hold two people but is ideal for one. it's only 8' above grade.

Make sure that your windows are high enough. It's much easier to raise a person up high enough to see out comfortably than it is to lower the floor or raise the window and it is truly miserable to have to duck down all the time to see out the windows.

For a tower blind, a trap door up through the floor has advantages over a side entry. The skidding blind can be dragged around behind a tractor to where it seems needed. The rolling blinds are great for the edges of large fields.
Funny you mention window height. I built a portable box blind with 2x2s and corrugated plastic to use on a homemade hang on tree stand. I used it at about 18' off the ground and it worked perfectly with the seat height and window height. When I brought it back home after that hunt, I put it back up in my own property but only at 8' off the ground due to low tree branches and shot opportunities. Turned out the windows were too low for that 8' height. I had to keep crouching down in my seat to see out the windows at any extended ranges. I think that's another factor. I will say tho that my windows were only about 10" tall and the width of the entire blind.
 
Funny you mention window height. I built a portable box blind with 2x2s and corrugated plastic to use on a homemade hang on tree stand. I used it at about 18' off the ground and it worked perfectly with the seat height and window height. When I brought it back home after that hunt, I put it back up in my own property but only at 8' off the ground due to low tree branches and shot opportunities. Turned out the windows were too low for that 8' height. I had to keep crouching down in my seat to see out the windows at any extended ranges. I think that's another factor. I will say tho that my windows were only about 10" tall and the width of the entire blind.

I like the window openings to be 12" high with the top at 48" above floor height. This allows me to see almost to the horizon in a straight-backed dining table chair with a Therma-seat and that seems to accommodate my height and work for the several shorter people who sometimes use my blinds. And as I said, if anyone is too short, they can add floor height. Sheets of plywood or 2X lumber or even pallets can raise the floor height temporarily.

In my five sided tower blind, only four of the walls have windows and I have 1-1/2" frames around glass that fold down to open. I didn't build the window openings taller to account for the frames, but I usually keep the two most likely windows open while I'm hunting and dip my head a little or use a mirror to glance out of the other two windows. The wall behind me has no window because it has no shot potential and that prevents backlighting my silhouette.
 
I like the window openings to be 12" high with the top at 48" above floor height. This allows me to see almost to the horizon in a straight-backed dining table chair with a Therma-seat and that seems to accommodate my height and work for the several shorter people who sometimes use my blinds. And as I said, if anyone is too short, they can add floor height. Sheets of plywood or 2X lumber or even pallets can raise the floor height temporarily.

In my five sided tower blind, only four of the walls have windows and I have 1-1/2" frames around glass that fold down to open. I didn't build the window openings taller to account for the frames, but I usually keep the two most likely windows open while I'm hunting and dip my head a little or use a mirror to glance out of the other two windows. The wall behind me has no window because it has no shot potential and that prevents backlighting my silhouette.
I'll have to keep that in mind.
 
This is my most recent tower blind. It has 5 sides and each is 4' wide.There are steps leading to a trapdoor in the floor for entry. Two people can ascend the stairs, step to either side of the platform and lower the door. Two chairs are stacked inside.

0825161601-01.jpg 0913161614-01.jpg
 
This is my first tower blind. It only lasted about ten years before it blew over in a storm. Lesson learned, use pressure treated lumber for the poles. Carpenter ants weakened two of the (tamarack) poles. The sides are 4' wide. This makes the distance from each corner to its opposite corner 8'. The floor was 12' above grade.

WOT.jpg
 
These blinds were built for crossbow hunting. A piece of carpet is draped down the front of from the top and another is suspended from a board that goes across the front. The beauty of these blinds is how easy they are to move around.

Skinneyass and Fatass blinds.JPG

This shows how effective these blinds are. Note the deer view mirror used to see what's coming up behind the blind.
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