boring bar

[parker_chp]

I'm looking to install a muzzle brake and need to find a boring bar. I would like to get one that I can use on 6.5 -338 cal. I would like to know which ones are recommended and where to find one. thanks.

 

[Jay Christopherson]

I'm not following this:

I'm looking to install a muzzle brake and need to find a boring bar. I would like to get one that I can use on 6.5 -338 cal.

If you are installing a muzzle brake, aren't you turning down the OD of the muzzle and then threading it? Neither of which is a boring operation... Or am I missing some context?

 

[DJ111]

Guessing he is looking for it to bore the exit hole to the bore axis.

Grind your own if you can.

 

[Jay Christopherson]

ah, ok, now I'm following. I knew I had to be missing something.

 

[ridgeway]

I'm not following this:

I'm looking to install a muzzle brake and need to find a boring bar. I would like to get one that I can use on 6.5 -338 cal.

If you are installing a muzzle brake, aren't you turning down the OD of the muzzle and then threading it? Neither of which is a boring operation... Or am I missing some context?

I'm assuming he wants to bore the exit hole to .020 over.

I use a carbide shank Grizzly boring bar. Will enter a .236" hole. Micro 100 boring bars are an option too, but find they are just a tad bit too short to bore the entire length of a Harrells brake. The Grizzly bar is nice, but pricy once you add in the inserts!

 

[KRP]

Micro 100, you can buy them cheap on Ebay if you look around.

 

[Gun Smith]

"I use a carbide shank Grizzly boring bar. Will enter a .236" hole. Micro 100 boring bars are an option too, but find they are just a tad bit too short to bore the entire length of a Harrells brake. The Grizzly bar is nice, but pricy once you add in the inserts!" - ridgeway quote.

I've been to Big G's Bellingham, WA showroom a couple of times and looked at those mini bars. Nice equipment, but having to by 10 or 12 inserts is a no go for me. Don't know why they won't sell just a few?

 

[boiler_house7]

+1 with ridgeway. I use the grizzly bar as he has pictured. The boring bar is of good quality and as he mentioned is pricey. I have a circle boring bar as well and it seem to be very good quality, but is a little short for the longer muzzle brakes, sure they may have what you need as well.

 

[Preacher]

Reamers have always worked for me when opening a break to .020 over bullet diameter...

 

[Eddie Harren]

I'm with Preacher. Chucking reamers have always worked for me.

 

[WayneShaw]

As long as the hole is in center.

 

[ridgeway]

I'm with Preacher. Chucking reamers have always worked for me.

Like Wayne said...as long as the hole is in the center. And if your tailstock is in perfect alignment and your drill chuck holding it centers perfect if you are using one. I get better results with a boring bar since my tailstock sits about .002" high.

 

[parker_chp]

Thanks for the answers guys. I looked at the grizzly bars and the blades and dang their pricey. The reamers seem like a good idea and was what was recommended to me by the person who is teaching how to run the lathe. I just haven't seen it used. My question is, and I'll try to be consise, if I use a reamer and the tail stock is off let's say .002 will it just open the brake up that much more or is there something I'm not seeing. I looked at reamers and found that a 23/64 wound give me .021 over. The tollerance calls for .020-.030 over bullet dia. So would it make much difference if it .023+/-. I would start with a smaller size and work up.

 

[ridgeway]

The reamer that I have is a decimal chucking reamer(.263). Shank is on the long side and it simply followed the bored hole. It worked, but I get better results with a rigid boring bar.