Boring Bar to cut behind Remington Extractor

[dakor]

I am wondering if you guys have suggestions on a boring bar that will cut the boltface on a Remington bolt without having to take the extractor out that is not fragile like glass. I have a small Warner boring bar that would make this cut but they are junk this is the second one I have broke taking a .002 cut on a boltface.

 

[Erik Cortina]

I am wondering if you guys have suggestions on a boring bar that will cut the boltface on a Remington bolt without having to take the extractor out that is not fragile like glass. I have a small Warner boring bar that would make this cut but they are junk this is the second one I have broke taking a .002 cut on a boltface.

Grind your own.

 

[dakor]

I tried that tonight and did not like the finish it produced so it as a waste of 3 hours.

 

[kjcpoint]

Use a defiance?

 

[ridgeway]

How about a solid carbide micro boring bar and grind it to clear the extractor?

 

[Erik Cortina]

I tried that tonight and did not like the finish it produced so it as a waste of 3 hours.

Spend another 30 minutes with it changing rake angles and speeds and feeds. HSS should leave a nice finish.

 

[STS]

I true the bolt face of Remington riveted in extractors without removing the extractor. I use a Vasco Supreme T-15 cutter that I ground to access the bolt face without touching the extractor. It took a while to grind the relief needed to get in there where I needed to go, but it works to perfection. Those cutters take and hold a razor sharp edge and leave a great finish. Here's a tip for you if you don't mind. Get your lateral and longitudinal stops set so you can make the cut by instruments only, then pack the bolt face with grease to keep any chips from finding their way in behind the extractor. It works. Another option for you is to use a Micro 100 carbide boring bar that you grind yourself to fit the job. It WILL give you a great finish.

 

[dakor]

I just ordered that micro boring bar before checking this post. Grinding tools is fine for a guy that has time I don't is the problem. I could have trued 2 actions in the amount of time I spent grinding a boring bar so if possible I would rather buy it than make it. Kyle most guys around here won't part with 1300 for just an action.

 

[jrm850]

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05251558

These are easy to grind clearance on, but I don't know if they qualify as not fragile compared to the HS inserts.
Are you breaking the Warner tools on the interrupted cut over the ejector hole? If so you may want to move your cutting edge to slightly above dead center assuming you are cutting from inside out. At dead center or below a "catch" will flex your tool deeper into the stock, whereas it flexes out of the stock when set high. You probably already know all of this, so I apologize if I am stating the obvious.

 

[hothead]

like Eric says . grind your own. If you PM me your cell# I can text you a picture of mine.
it gives an awesome finish and when made , the tool will last for years with only a small touch up every once and a while. I would recommend using a cobalt blank.
hh

 

[Preacher]

Brownness HAD the cutter your referring to, maybe they still carry them......

 

[jrm850]

Brownness HAD the cutter your referring to, maybe they still carry them......

They used to sell this one. Can't remember why I quit using it. Don't think it will clear an extractor.

 

[akajun]

I just ordered that micro boring bar before checking this post. Grinding tools is fine for a guy that has time I don't is the problem. I could have trued 2 actions in the amount of time I spent grinding a boring bar so if possible I would rather buy it than make it. Kyle most guys around here won't part with 1300 for just an action.

Grinding a cutter is not rocket science, you dont need a t&c grinder, just a bench grinder with a 60-80 grit AO wheel, a tool rest, and a protractor. Take it easy and cut one angle at a time.
BTW on ground boring bars, the main reason I get a bad finish is that I did not grind enough relief on the underside and it is rubbing on the work where you cant see it. Spray you tool with DYkem and check for high spots when working.

 

[dakor]

Sorry guys I was down with a bad stomach bug the last couple of days so I ignored the post. Lots of good information in here. I have do have a boring bar that I ground that I use on the inside of the action to cut the lug area. This was the first tool I had ever made and it works great and leaves a nice finish so I must have got lucky. It took a lot of time to make 3 hours before I was happy with it and like I said before time is money. It will not clear the extractor but I used it on a bolt face the other week that I had to replace the extractor on anyway and it worked like a champ. I will try and grind another bar but I would like to try modify that micro 100 bar first when it shows up. The Warner bar broke the first time on the ejector hole the second bar broke in the middle between the ejector hole and firing pin hole. I used these bars on 10 actions total. The bar breaks because it is made poorly there is just not enough steel under that insert to support any kind of cutting stress no matter how minor it is. Here is a picture of the bar that is the thickest part on it that holds the insert .054 and some change. That tip in the second picture is half that thick and that tip bends whenever it feels like it and the insert hits the ceiling and the bar is toast. There are only two threads in that boring bar to hold the insert so as you can see not very robust at all. I take a .001 to .002 cut and cut from the outside in towards the firing pin hole how does a boring bar break at random on that light of a cut?

 

[dakor]

Anyone using the PTG boltface cutter with the truing block that threads into the receiver?

 

[Riesel]

I have and have been very happy with the results. I've seen it used to just fit under the extractor but my results were a disaster, better to remove the extractor. does a nice job and works better with a drop of cutting oil.

 

[dakor]

Thanks!