Boretech Eliminator vs Pro Shot vs CLR

[Kracken McGraw]

I once had that problem with one of their rods that I had let bore cleaner run down into the bearings, it had caused a bit of rust… I flooded the bearings with a dose of G96 and kept spinning the handle and let the rusty fluid come out and after about three flushes the rod spins just fine now.
I now always have a paper towel handy when withdrawing the rod to mop up any bore cleaner off the rod so that it does not get a chance to run down the rod to the bearings..
A brand new rod will keep the handle spinning for 15-20 seconds if you give it a quick twist. The rod that I fixed won’t spin as long as that anymore but it will spin and has not been any problem with binding when pushing a patch or brush through the bore.
Also, as K22 mentioned, contact their service department, they have been helpful to me in the past.

I had the same experience with a Pro Shot rod. I screwed rod off and put a old short piece rod in it and spun it with a drill using hobo oil.

 

[Maximus1840]

I switched to Thorroclean and Thorroflush when I first saw it advertised. I believe it is the best cleaner system I have ever used

 

[caveshooter]

I have been using H9 to remove powder fouling followed up by BT Eliminator. I find Eliminator really does a great job of pulling jacket fouling out of the bore, at least what I can see in the muzzle with a light. I have some BT C4 Carbon remover I have never used but I am now inspired to try on my "clean barrels" to see what comes out. I am working somewhat blind without a bore scope. Good thread.

 

[Larry Koch]

Without a bore scope your just guessing. And as cheap as they are, get one.

 

[jelenko]

I have been using H9 to remove powder fouling followed up by BT Eliminator. I find Eliminator really does a great job of pulling jacket fouling out of the bore, at least what I can see in the muzzle with a light. I have some BT C4 Carbon remover I have never used but I am now inspired to try on my "clean barrels" to see what comes out. I am working somewhat blind without a bore scope. Good thread.

Some time ago, before I started using a borescope, I did test H9 vs C4.

I first pushed a couple patches with H9 through the bore, brushed with a bronze brush 20 strokes, patched out with H9 and dry patches until the dry patches were essentially clean.

Then pushed a patch with C4 through - a bunch of black came out => no question C4 works better.

Once I started using a borescope, I discovered that even with using C4, there is still a LOT of carbon left in the bore. So much, that I doubt the difference between H9 and C4 makes any difference.
For example, I see no visible difference in the amount of carbon in the barrel after I use C4 and a bronze brush and one dry patch vs continuing on using wet/dry patches until the dry patches come out clean.

 

[Fire Dog]

Some time ago, before I started using a borescope, I did test H9 vs C4.

I first pushed a couple patches with H9 through the bore, brushed with a bronze brush 20 strokes, patched out with H9 and dry patches until the dry patches were essentially clean.

Then pushed a patch with C4 through - a bunch of black came out => no question C4 works better.

Once I started using a borescope, I discovered that even with using C4, there is still a LOT of carbon left in the bore. So much, that I doubt the difference between H9 and C4 makes any difference.
For example, I see no visible difference in the amount of carbon in the barrel after I use C4 and a bronze brush and one dry patch vs continuing on using wet/dry patches until the dry patches come out clean.

Keep at it with the C-4, that carbon did not develop from one trip to the range…
The “neck of chamber carbon ring” can be treated by saturating a bore mop and just push it up till it starts to enter the bore and leave it at least 4 hours or better still overnight. Same for the bore about letting it have a nice wet swab and letting it sit for a while followed by some patching.
I then use a next caliber up bore brush {regular black one or IOSSO blue which is stiffer} to then rotate about 6-8 times, only needs to go as far as the start of the rifling, followed by some patch work and a check with a bore scope…. Gleaming!!!
This is easier if you have a short rod or pistol rod with a T handle…
Not a great fan of abrasive bore paste… I do have both grades of JB but usually for the end of life barrels that start to foul badly and have a lot of fire checking.

 

[jelenko]

Keep at it with the C-4, that carbon did not develop from one trip to the range…
The “neck of chamber carbon ring” can be treated by saturating a bore mop and just push it up till it starts to enter the bore and leave it at least 4 hours or better still overnight. Same for the bore about letting it have a nice wet swab and letting it sit for a while followed by some patching.
I then use a next caliber up bore brush {regular black one or IOSSO blue which is stiffer} to then rotate about 6-8 times, only needs to go as far as the start of the rifling, followed by some patch work and a check with a bore scope…. Gleaming!!!
This is easier if you have a short rod or pistol rod with a T handle…
Not a great fan of abrasive bore paste… I do have both grades of JB but usually for the end of life barrels that start to foul badly and have a lot of fire checking.

Interesting. I clean after every range session - usually 50-100 rounds.
I've tried soaking with C4 but even over night didn't make much difference - left a lot of carbon in the first few inches. However, I haven't tried rotating a over sized brush. But, that wouldn't reach the first few inches of the bore where a lot of carbon accumulates.

On using abrasives. First, my accuracy requirements are 1/2 MOA - so not benchrest or FClass.
I've been using an abrasive at almost every cleaning. The typical accurate life of the barrels I use is 3000 rounds +/-. I haven't noticed any change since I started using an abrasive for almost every cleaning session.

 

[Fire Dog]

Interesting. I clean after every range session - usually 50-100 rounds.
I've tried soaking with C4 but even over night didn't make much difference - left a lot of carbon in the first few inches. However, I haven't tried rotating a over sized brush. But, that wouldn't reach the first few inches of the bore where a lot of carbon accumulates.

On using abrasives. First, my accuracy requirements are 1/2 MOA - so not benchrest or FClass.
I've been using an abrasive at almost every cleaning. The typical accurate life of the barrels I use is 3000 rounds +/-. I haven't noticed any change since I started using an abrasive for almost every cleaning session.

Up the bore into the rifling I just use a bore size brush and 10-15 strokes then patch and check… Sort of “rinse and repeat” clean.
My bores seem to come clean of carbon quicker that the “Carbon Ring” at the throat of the chamber and that is why I do the soak and stiff oversize clean there.

 

[SeabeeKen]

A friend bought a very used and abused 03 rifle a few years ago. He couldnt get it to shoot so I had him clean it. He said he cleaned it with H9 until he got white patches out. I told him it still wasnt clean. The debate was on and I bet him it was dirty and had him bring it over for a bore scope inspection. The before and after pics speak for themselves. I started with a 30 cal brush and KG-2 which got loose in 10 strokes and moved to 338 brush which also got loose in 10 strokes and went to 35 cal brush which loosened somewhat before leveling off. The after pic in a 100% pitted barrel, so bad that no rifling was found. He now has a bore scope. He had a 303 Enfield almost as bad but we did find rifling under the carbon from shooting .308 bullets in it. Even after cleaning there is a hard layer of packed carbon in a bore. It can only be removed with abrasives, just like a carbon ring. I clean mine until there is a very thin layer of that hard carbon remaining so that I dont need fouling shots. On to cleaners.....
I spent hundreds on cleaners to see what really worked and what didnt. I tested most of whats out there. KG, BT, H9, patch out, SC, MX, Flitz, Free ALL and the list could go on a while.
NONE of these would remove the hard carbon. The best chemical I found for this was TM Solution. I soak the bore with 2 wet patches and let it sit for 15-30 minutes. Then a good scrubbing with a bronze brush soaked in TM, about 10-15 strokes and I'm down to the very thin layer of fouling. I clean it out, run a patch of corrosion x thru and dry patch. Done. Abrasives... There is JB, Iosso/Thorroclean, KG-2, Corbin, and a few others. JB IME was messy and hard to clean out. I use mainly Iosso for carbon rings and if I was to go to a pristine bore. They all work well.
Flitz liquid (green) is also an excellent bore cleaner and among my favorite. Some say its abrasive. I talk to Flitz about this. It has some 6000 grit in it which is so fine it isnt classified as an abrasive. It has never harmed my bores.
Tested CLPs also. Top 2, Adiga Armory and Prolix.
Lastly, As already said in this thread, If you dont have a bore scope you ARE working blind. You can have a super shiney bore with a light and it still dirty as sin.
You shoulda saw the large box of cleaners and lubes I gave away.
Sorry for the long boring post

 

[LVLAaron]

is the thorroflush a cleaner in itself or just used to get the thorroclean out of the barrel ? Has anyone used anything other than thorroflush to clean out the thorroclean ?

It's just a thin solvent to wipe the thorroclean out. I use kroil or hoppes or whatever is closest.

 

[rebs]

It's just a thin solvent to wipe the thorroclean out. I use kroil or hoppes or whatever is closest.

thank you

 

[Steven B]

I've now converted to Bore Tech C4 for my breach. It dose get the carbon ring out if I let a mop sit there for 5 minutes and then take a nylon brush to it for about 5 strokes. It's been the easiest I've tried. I have Eliminator and Rimfire blend as well but they don't take out the carbon.

For years I shot for MPro7 and used nothing but that in my guns. I've been very satisfied until I started 22 Brench Rest shooting. Now I know how much cleaner a gun needs to be.

C4 is doing it for me.

Steven

 

[Longtrain]

I have been through so many products in search for one that really works.

Eliminator, followed by Patch-Out and its Accelerator, then Flitz for carbon. I get really clean barrels with minimal work and time.