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Borescope Shock

I would say Im +/- 500 rounds,,6.5-06,,,that bore has seen RL-22,,4831sc,,N165,,and IMR4350 and H4350,,,I stopped with the 4350s because they were very noticeably HOTTER,,like couldn't even touch barrel after a slow 5 shots,,
 
As far as consistant accuracy,,That Krieger is the North Star at 100yrds,,every bullet,,every charge does same thing just looser or tighter,,now I started traveling to 300yrd range for load development,,that really narrows down what the gun likes,,
 
If I am careful about assembling ammo and pay attention to conditions I can usually get one hole 5 shot groups at 100 for most of the expected barrel life.
Wow. I can only wish it was that easy for me. Are you saying consistently? If so, I know I am doing something horribly wrong.
 
I don't think most people understand that Reloading for a good rifle is a LABOR of LOVE,,its not always easy,,,definatly not cheaper,,,lol,,if you want a gun to sing like Cecilia Bartoli you have to reload
 
LOL,,,God Bless Gunsmiths,,,what if you build a gun for a Nitwit???,,,"This gun doesn't shoot",,I think I would wind up beating someone with it,,lol
 
My neighbor and I were at the range one morning and these 2 guys showed up,,I didn't pay attention I was focused on what I was doing,,My neighbor is the Gabby type and was talking to them,,,"Hart this and Hart that,,Hart Hart Hart...on..on.and on,,,",,they proceeded to dump out a big assortment of Wally World ammo,,,,which resulted in 4" groups at 100yrds,,,,Great gun probly,,poor operator
 
The V.V. N570 powder and all the Reloder series are double based powders, the will give you more velocity, but are temp. sensitive and burn much hotter.
 
the 4350s shot well,,but not that much better than powders that are cooler on the chart,,if the groups are tight with "cool" powder Im going use it
 
Wow. I can only wish it was that easy for me. Are you saying consistently? If so, I know I am doing something horribly wrong.

I am only a casual shooter being involved in the sport because it brings relieve and satisfaction into my life. Provided, I exercise good safety restraints and do not present a hazard to others I don't agonize over stuff. Should I not produce good results at the range nobody yells at me or places restrictions on my activities, budget restrictions, disparaging remarks, appearance before investigative boards and/or demands to produce detailed reports.

I cannot comment on why other shooters are frustrated with their shooting and attempts to remove crud from rifle barrels. Having some experience in developing procedures for unrelated but somewhat similar applications I have adapted these procedures to shooting off my guns but have skipped the business of tedious documentation and reporting because I really don't give a s**t.

The commonly used stuff to clean rifle barrels consists of chemicals listed in the NIOSH hand book with corresponding CAS numbers. Just about all this stuff is hazardous and requires protective gear for use. I cannot comment on how others use this stuff or in what quantities it is used - like sparingly or splashed on. For my use I wear nitrile gloves and apply it in well ventilated areas. I doubt much of this cleaning stuff is more effective than commonly available stuff like synthetic motor oil, isopropyl alcohol (automotive Heet), bronze & nylon brushes, with the exception of cleaners containing butoxyethanol (CAS 111-75) and ethanolamine (CAS 75-04-7) to attack metal and other fouling. I would not be surprised that this stuff is marked up over 500% of its actual cost.

My casual record consists of letter sized paper targets with Walmart 3/4 inch colored dots stuck roughly in the center. No expert here but good enough for my use including hits on small rodents in excess of 1/4 mile. I like to read tech stuff including reloading manuals. I apologize for my description of 5 shot groups instead of the actual 3 shot groups - I will cheerfully accept any sanctions for this willful exaggeration.IMG_1147.JPG IMG_1148.JPG IMG_1150.JPG IMG_1151.JPG IMG_1152.JPG
 
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Nobody has yet to explain to me where the carbon would come from in a rifle barrel. Primers contain lead & other metals. Smokeless powder is nitrocellulose and possibly nitroglycerin with stuff to retard burn rate and stabilize (ignition products are almost all gaseous). A small amount of graphite, or carbon as added to retard static electricity and lubricate.

Well, according to Wikipedia:

Nitrocellulose is one of:
(C6H9(NO2)O5)n
(C6H8(NO2)2O5)n
(C6H7(NO2)3O5)n


Nitroglycerin is
C3H5N3O9


Burn any of those down and you'll get at least a decent amount of carbon.
 
Hi Guys,,just wanted to share my Borescope Experience,,was cleaning with Jag,,patches,, nyion brush,,bought a Lyman borescope and felt sick to my stomach,,grooves loaded with hard carbon,,,tried Kroil and and a Little JB,,,Didn't touch it,,and I love Kroil,,seen it get lead out of old rimfires like a dream,,,searched and read and read and searched on here,,stopped after work at Advance Auto,,decided on Sea Foam Deep Creep it said it was OK for guns,,Im thrilled,,a Little JB and a Generous amount of this stuff and Holy Mud Slide,,,Hello CLEAN,,,lol,,you might not really want to see the inside of your barrel,,if you buy a borescope be prepared,,,WHAT HAS BEEN SEEN CANT BE UNSEEN,,,lol,,but it can probly be CLEANED
Could you please elaborate on how you applied the "Creep" and how long you let it "soak", etc.?
 
The V.V. N570 powder and all the Reloder series are double based powders, the will give you more velocity, but are temp. sensitive and burn much hotter.
Ummm...no disrepect intended but your statement is not quite accurate. RL-16 as well as 23 are VERY temp stable in the testing I have done and I have been using RL-23 in one chambering (6.5 x55 Imp) for over 3 years in greatly varying temps and have not seen velocity swings more than a few fps. I have a little less time with RL-16 but it also has shown no issues with temp swings from upper 30's to 90's F in a 6.5 and 6 Creedmoor.

Robin
 

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