Borescope Surprise
- Thread starter Oso
- Start date
dellet
Gold $$ Contributor
A couple thoughts.
if the action screw is proud, is the action installed correctly?
maybe severely over torqued, no pillar where there should be?
A load developed in an AR will need to be tweaked in a bolt action. A half grain is about 3% change in a small cartridge.
Using the brass dedicated only to the bolt action will yield huge results.
if the action screw is proud, is the action installed correctly?
maybe severely over torqued, no pillar where there should be?
A load developed in an AR will need to be tweaked in a bolt action. A half grain is about 3% change in a small cartridge.
Using the brass dedicated only to the bolt action will yield huge results.
Agree, I keep my bolt rifle ammo and spent brass separate from the brass used in my AR's. Last night I started case prepping 100 cases that were 1x fired through this rifle. This will be today's test batch. The rifle's chamber in 1.364" so I am cutting brass at 1.360". I have room to load longer than .226" so will stretch the seating.
Agree, the action / stock union is suspect. For this model, Remington used an HS Precision composite stock. Since it is factory installed then highly unlikely that it was also pillar bedded at factory. Plan to check the fit when I remove the action screws. I will definitely pay attention to the torque when removing and replacing it.
Agree, the action / stock union is suspect. For this model, Remington used an HS Precision composite stock. Since it is factory installed then highly unlikely that it was also pillar bedded at factory. Plan to check the fit when I remove the action screws. I will definitely pay attention to the torque when removing and replacing it.
HS Precision is an older model (+10 years) and rigid. There is minimal flex as I try to squeeze together the barrel and end of forearm. I had visually inspected the stock when I picked up the rifle from FFL and also while out at range. There appeared to be adequate clearance on all sides, but I hadn't checked with a dollar bill to see if there was one of those intentional contact points positioned mid-barrel.
Results: No problem sliding a stack of paper (14 sheets) all the way back the the receiver without interference. Scratch this one off the list. Next is the tension on the action screws... after dinner.
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Results: No problem sliding a stack of paper (14 sheets) all the way back the the receiver without interference. Scratch this one off the list. Next is the tension on the action screws... after dinner.
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DShortt
Gold $$ Contributor
It's not uncommon for light weight Savage .30 barrels to be oversized in the bore at the muzzle. Know this to be fact, first hand experience.
In your case, with the threaded tip, I'd check the bore diameter before spending any more time on it. Bet a shiny piece of copper it's. 002" or more over.
In your case, with the threaded tip, I'd check the bore diameter before spending any more time on it. Bet a shiny piece of copper it's. 002" or more over.
I ran a tight patch through the barrel to see if I felt any major movement.... maybe but not positive. I thought I might drop a gage pin into the barrel and see if it would act as proxy for a slug. Unfortunately the closest smallest size I had on hand was .303", but this was two large to fit.
Slugging the barrel is probably the last item on the checklist. What is the process for slugging a barrel? What supplies do I need?
Slugging the barrel is probably the last item on the checklist. What is the process for slugging a barrel? What supplies do I need?
Not by a long shot.
DShortt
Gold $$ Contributor
All you need is a piece of soft lead larger in diameter than the bore. Not by a whole bunch but enough so that when it's in the bore it will fully engage in the grooves. Fishing sinkers will work but you might have a bit of difficulty finding pure lead sinkers these days.
I would start by just tapping the soft lead into the muzzle. Use a brass hammer, be careful, and just tap on it until it enters the bore at least a half inch. DO NOT beat on it! Then take a brass rod from the chamber end and tap it back out the muzzle. Use a rod that is slightly under bore diameter. If it's too small, it's easy to drive the rod into the slug and then it'll be stuck tight. Not good!!! And again, don't beat on it. Just light taps, and take your time. Capture it in something like a piled up rag so it doesn't hit the floor or take another hard hit or the slug will most likely be distorted. Then measure the diameter with a micrometer. I'll not be surprised if it's not .002" over size and perhaps even more.
I did not go into intricate detail as I am going to presume you have basic mechanical skills and understand precautions necessary when inserting objects into the barrel of a firearm.
Only if the slug diameter measures correctly would I worry about slugging the entire bore. If you happen to have a shot-out or known bad barrel on hand, it would be a good idea to practice once or twice so you know what to expect.
dellet
Gold $$ Contributor
Soft cast bullets will work. Once completely into the bore, they should push relatively easily. You will be able to pick up loose spots.
The problem starting with the muzzle end, if it has a bit of a choke, the rest of the barrel will feel loose. If you can start from the chamber, it’s tapered and starts easier. I do both ends and push one completely through from the chamber. A light coat of oil is your friend.
Since I shoot bullets breech seated, starting from the chamber end is easy and without much thought.
Take a fired case and drill out the primer to allow pistol length cleaning rod. Run the rod through the case and screw on the next size up caliber jag with the point filed off. Something less than bore diameter. Use it like tool to find the lands, except when it hits the lands, keep pushing. Once the bullet is completely in the bore you can change out to a longer cleaning rod to push the bullet all the way through.
Save the drilled case and use it as a bore guide in a pinch.
Now for the bad news.
Unless you have the right “V” block set up, you won’t be able to measure bore/groove diameter with any accuracy. Odd numbers of grooves and lands are a bitch.
I used the Tubbs lapping bullets, they work cleaning up the chatter marks. Not sure I would use them on something like the Blackout. If you’re not careful, you can have about 10,000 rounds of throat erosion in 20 shots. That’s not what you need in a chamber that about half the light bullets come out of the case before hitting the lands.
Hand lapping is a pain, but gives you more control.
The problem starting with the muzzle end, if it has a bit of a choke, the rest of the barrel will feel loose. If you can start from the chamber, it’s tapered and starts easier. I do both ends and push one completely through from the chamber. A light coat of oil is your friend.
Since I shoot bullets breech seated, starting from the chamber end is easy and without much thought.
Take a fired case and drill out the primer to allow pistol length cleaning rod. Run the rod through the case and screw on the next size up caliber jag with the point filed off. Something less than bore diameter. Use it like tool to find the lands, except when it hits the lands, keep pushing. Once the bullet is completely in the bore you can change out to a longer cleaning rod to push the bullet all the way through.
Save the drilled case and use it as a bore guide in a pinch.
Now for the bad news.
Unless you have the right “V” block set up, you won’t be able to measure bore/groove diameter with any accuracy. Odd numbers of grooves and lands are a bitch.
I used the Tubbs lapping bullets, they work cleaning up the chatter marks. Not sure I would use them on something like the Blackout. If you’re not careful, you can have about 10,000 rounds of throat erosion in 20 shots. That’s not what you need in a chamber that about half the light bullets come out of the case before hitting the lands.
Hand lapping is a pain, but gives you more control.
I have the same rifle, your 17.5 h110 load is very mild unless you have them seated really deep. 296/110 shoots better the harder you push it. Try 19.5 at 2.140" oal w/ 125 tnt ( LC/Win brass). I have lots of 1/2" groups with that load. Give the the barrel a good scrub with JB.
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Thanks - My pet load (17.5gr H110) was originally developed for shorty AR15 and also initial firings of newly converted / formed cases. My loads for my CZ527 are same as your with 19.5gr H110 under the 125gr TNT.
I am hoping this Rem 700 can be tamed. I was planning on loads closer to the 19.5-20.5 range depending on mag length, chamber, and pressure/safety concerns.
I had a PacNor barrel come that way 27 pits/gouges in a 26" LTVarmint barrel,, believe it is actual pits/impurity's in the metal before rifling, I sent it back, also had 2 Savage 204 Ruger barrels that looked much deeper than your first pictures,button rifling,that both shot light's out,would shoot it & see the results,some barrels look like crap & yet still shoot ! ,Good luck
Howa sent me a surprisingly nice one for $450.
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