Bore tech users

[Shooter13]

Looks like fire crackling to me.

 

[mudduck]

Looks like fire crackling to me.

It does have about 2100 rounds though it so it is on its last leg.

 

[Bill K]

Good habit it have is after cleaning bore/action run a couple of patches down the bore with either Lock-Ease or PB Blocker. I also like to take one patch and lightly go over the action areas, prior to storing the weapon, be it long gun, handgun or scattergun.

 

[Dimner]

I used their products for a time (about 3 years ago or so) when I was trying to find an odorless alternative to Shooter's Choice since the odor was bothering my wife who was ill at the time.

No question, C4 does a terrific job removing carbon as does Cu+2 for copper. However, after a while I started getting first shot flyers and the need to re-condition the bore with several shots before the desired POI returned. I also notice a residue forming on the threads of the jag. Incidentally, I did talk to Bore Tech's rep about their products, and he claimed that based on extensive testing, their products do not cause rust even though they are aqueous based.

Besides being expensive, the flyers were something I could not tolerate so I went back to Hoppe's 9 with a bronze brush which is what I used many years ago. All is good since I switched which no one on this Forum will ever believe but that's ok. The varmints I hunt believe it.

Thank you for this info.

 

[powderbrake]

Bore tech C4 and Cu+2 are water based products. Let's use our heads here folks, you don't put water in your bore as the last step.
I have been using these products for several years and have not had any corrosion problems...... BUT, I always clean them out with a dry patch, then run a [patch with oil to lubricate the bore before storage. Kroil for short term (a few days) or Hoppe's Lubricating oil for long term storage.

 

[Dimner]

I personally run a heavy coat of gun oil down every bore after every cleaning session.

That is because, on numerous occasions, life has thrown unexpected consequences up that caused my shooting plans to be delayed by weeks or months.

I've no interest in dealing with rust in a bore at all. The gun oil is easily removed. The corrosion damage? Nope.

Amen to that. I do that as well.

Just started using c4 this year. First of all, the smell is annoying. Just an odd smell that doesn't agree with me. Probably like how some people hate the smell of Kroil (I like the smell of that stuff)

Like others, I use dry patches until I have no indication of any c4 left in my bore. Then I run a patch (about about 33% saturated) of pro shot 1 step CLP down the bore. Depending on how long i think the rifle will be sitting, I'll either let it be or put one dry patch down after that.

My cleaning regimen is not for competition, I don't own comp guns. But it works for me. I always run 2 foulers down the bore before any range session.

The thing is....Based on the instructions on the bottle, I have been kind of lax in getting all the C4 out of the receiver bolt lug area and largest part of the chamber. That's going to need to change. Still have not found a real good way to mop out the lug area if getting 100% of the C4 removed is now a requirement. I think the best course of action is to ensure my bore guide is jammed as far as it can go into the chamber while cleaning.

 

[Dimner]

Bore tech C4 and Cu+2 are water based products. Let's use our heads here folks, you don't put water in your bore as the last step.

That's the rub....

1) No where on the bottle that I have seen says it's water based.

2)The directions explicitly state it is a reasonable, and I would go as far to say, a recommend practice to leave it in the bore as a short term protectant.

So if you are just a normal shooter and not a forum goer, using our heads means following the manufacturers directions.

If something is considered a short term protectant, it should never cause long term damage. It should just stop protecting.

 

[DShortt]

Amen to that. I do that as well.

Just started using c4 this year. First of all, the smell is annoying. Just an odd smell that doesn't agree with me. Probably like how some people hate the smell of Kroil (I like the smell of that stuff)

Like others, I use dry patches until I have no indication of any c4 left in my bore. Then I run a patch (about about 33% saturated) of pro shot 1 step CLP down the bore. Depending on how long i think the rifle will be sitting, I'll either let it be or put one dry patch down after that.

My cleaning regimen is not for competition, I don't own comp guns. But it works for me. I always run 2 foulers down the bore before any range session.

The thing is....Based on the instructions on the bottle, I have been kind of lax in getting all the C4 out of the receiver bolt lug area and largest part of the chamber. That's going to need to change. Still have not found a real good way to mop out the lug area if getting 100% of the C4 removed is now a requirement. I think the best course of action is to ensure my bore guide is jammed as far as it can go into the chamber while cleaning.

Flip the rifle upside down in the cradle.

That's what I've done for decades.

 

[D the D]

Mostly WATER!
The MSDS is easily found online:

C4



Bore Tech Eliminator MSDS

 

[Andy Work]

Still have not found a real good way to mop out the lug area if getting 100% of the C4 removed is now a requirement.

DEWEY BOLT ACTION CLEANING KIT

 

[DGP4]

Amen to that. I do that as well.

Just started using c4 this year. First of all, the smell is annoying. Just an odd smell that doesn't agree with me. Probably like how some people hate the smell of Kroil (I like the smell of that stuff)

Like others, I use dry patches until I have no indication of any c4 left in my bore. Then I run a patch (about about 33% saturated) of pro shot 1 step CLP down the bore. Depending on how long i think the rifle will be sitting, I'll either let it be or put one dry patch down after that.

My cleaning regimen is not for competition, I don't own comp guns. But it works for me. I always run 2 foulers down the bore before any range session.

The thing is....Based on the instructions on the bottle, I have been kind of lax in getting all the C4 out of the receiver bolt lug area and largest part of the chamber. That's going to need to change. Still have not found a real good way to mop out the lug area if getting 100% of the C4 removed is now a requirement. I think the best course of action is to ensure my bore guide is jammed as far as it can go into the chamber while cleaning.

The way I clean behind the bore (lug recesses etc.) after cleaning the barrel is to give that area a spritz of oil and run a tight-fitting clean bore mop the length of the receiver. I also give it a spin or two for good measure. I then wash it and let it dry.

 

[powderbrake]

DEWEY BOLT ACTION CLEANING KIT

Exactly!
I have a Sinclair kit and use it to clean the lugs, and a bore mop to clean the chamber, every time I clean the rifle.

 

[D the D]

I just use dollar store toothbrushes with a piece of clean rag, like old t-shirts, for the lug recess area. Denatured Alcohol indoors or Acetone outdoors down the bore and in the lug recesses to make them dry. I follow that with a patch barely dampened with VPI oil in the bore a wiped around elsewhere for storage.