Bolt / Firing Pin Lubrication
- Thread starter harro
- Start date
10-30 motor oil for the fp per kelbly
I prefer to keep the inside of my bolts almost dry. I rub oil into all of the parts then wipe away any excess before assembly. Most lubricants will leave carbon deposits if used in the wrong areas.
Lube only goes on parts that are outside of the chamber and cannot normally be ignited by firing the gun.
Lube only goes on parts that are outside of the chamber and cannot normally be ignited by firing the gun.
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
I spray some WD-40 on the firing pin and spring, wipe it off, just to keep any rust off. and put it back in.
So basically. I run it dry.
So basically. I run it dry.
A bud has a bolt action Rugar M77 30/06 that is over 40 years old. He was having an issue with it sometimes with light primer hits and things not going bang until he did it a second time. He brought the bolt by for a look see as I use to own one. Firing pin looked good so I said it could be the spring but let's try something. I put in my Hornady ultrasonic cleaner in a plastic bag with the cleaning solution for 30 minutes. Well, the bag solution came out dark black/grey. So, it appeared there was a lot of old oil that was probably gummy, and this probably caused the light primer hits. We dried it out and lubed it up with WD40. He went to the range the following week and shot over 60 rounds, and everyone fired. He told me it was shooting like it was brand new. So there is no need to disassemble a bolt to clean if you have an ultrasonic cleaner.
jepp2
Gold $$ Contributor
Back when WD-40 first came out, I used it too generously on a pistol. It left behind a gummy residue that was almost impossible to remove. So I have limited my use of WD-40 on firearms after that.
I remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt body and thoroughly clean both in OMS (odorless mineral spirits). Let them thoroughly dry for a day. I have a 2 inch chip brush, that I use to apply a light coat of LP on my guns to protect them from rust. I use just the residual on the brush to brush the spring and firing pin assembly. For the threads and the cocking ramp I use Greg's advice in the video below. I use a light coat of Hobo oil on the exterior of the bolt body, and Tetra flouropolymer lube on the mating surface of the bolt lugs. Pay attention to his tip on how not to wipe the lube off your bolt lugs.
I remove the firing pin assembly from the bolt body and thoroughly clean both in OMS (odorless mineral spirits). Let them thoroughly dry for a day. I have a 2 inch chip brush, that I use to apply a light coat of LP on my guns to protect them from rust. I use just the residual on the brush to brush the spring and firing pin assembly. For the threads and the cocking ramp I use Greg's advice in the video below. I use a light coat of Hobo oil on the exterior of the bolt body, and Tetra flouropolymer lube on the mating surface of the bolt lugs. Pay attention to his tip on how not to wipe the lube off your bolt lugs.
I cringe when I hear folks say something only needs a spritz of WD-40 to make it work better.
After fighting the same gummy residue from WD-40 too many times, I learned that while it makes a decent solvent to remove both its own and other gummy residues, it makes a poor lubricant.
jds holler
Gold $$ Contributor
First off, get good at disassembling your bolt on whatever rifle ya own, and do it from time to time. Clean it and barely oil it when you re-assemble, and you will never have a problem again. jd
I use Rem brand gun oil in a spray can. Make sure you get oil inside the shroud. I drench the shroud then wipe off excess. I don't like products that dry. Don't like the idea of a hard solid being a good lube. Don't know why you would want grease instead of oil. I worked in lubrication research. Oil is just a great lube, it doesn't dry or harden. Great film strength. When the gun is cocked look at the part of the back of the firing pin that protrudes out of the shroud. I think some rub marks are normal there is never a perfect fit. Make a judgement call if you think the rubbing scuff marks are excessive. Don't know how I would correct it if I thought it was a problem. My Rem 700 is 50 YO and the back of the firing pin has a lot of scuff abrasion but it isn't a problem.
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WSnyder
Silver $$ Contributor
The cocking piece should not be touching the shroud. You might get away with it but...............and there are ways to fix it. Do you need it fixed? Can't make that call for you.
I run very little lube inside the bolt body. I use a spray of kroil followed by blowing most of it off with air. Just a light film and clean it off a few times a year. Just my 2 cents.
DonkeyHote
Gold $$ Contributor
After cleaning U use dry moly powder sprinkle, shake off excess, good to go . It is a high pressure lubricant.
Dimner
I do believe in Captain Crunch.
I do the same, except with the non-spray version. I put 3-4 small kroil dots on a patch and use that to lube inside the bolt body and the pin body.
Also I'm pretty sure I'm the only man on the planet that enjoys the smell of kroil.
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