I have a 722 bolt with a 308 BF with a bad extractor. Was going to do the mini 16 conversion and bush the bolt face but was thinking instead of soldering a ring into the bolt face, could I make a modified bushing with the oversize ring part of it that simply threads into the bolt and secured with locktite as normal. Has anyone here done this? If not is it feasible?
Bolt bushing and bolt face reduction/ extractor conversion
- Thread starter akajun
- Start date
centershot
Silver $$ Contributor
I had this done to a 700. I was told that the only way to do this (.223) was to open up the bolt face and then, after the extractor cut was made, silver solder a reducing ring into the bolt face. The ring worked its way loose and I had to have the ring re done. I sold the rifle after that. Did not need to have that happen during a match.
Im trying to eliminate the soldering by making it part of the fp bushing and threading it in. Or was that your fix for the the bad soldering job?
I will say I've done a couple hundred of these on hunting rifles and varmint rifles that get shot way more than a match rifle and never had the soldered ring come loose.
Always use a competent, qualified Gun Smith.
Unless replacement is not an option after you pay the gun smith for these services you could replace the bolt with a new PTG bolt, for not much more money.
Always use a competent, qualified Gun Smith.
Unless replacement is not an option after you pay the gun smith for these services you could replace the bolt with a new PTG bolt, for not much more money.
No offence meant there, I was speaking more to Center shots issue, I don't know how much metal you could safely remove from the bolt face if you made the firing pin bushing integral with the outer ring, would you make the whole thing a press fit? You could do a mockup bolt to test the fit-up work, then maybe do it on an old throw away bolt and test it with some stout proof loads fired remotely from a safe distance.
I have a soldering system worked out where I solder the ring in place with the bolt still dialed in in the LaBounty fixture with the premade extended ring held in place by the tail stock and live center while the lathe is rotating around 1,000 rpm the solder flows evenly as does the heat, the centrifugal force keeps the solder off the bolt face so cleanup is minimal, cut off the excess ring/bushing and face it off however you want it, it's pretty fast to do using Hi Force 44 solder and flux.
Good luck with your experiment, thinking out of the box is how advancements are made.
One thing to keep in mind is the hardness of the bolt face. Anything you put in place needs to be equally as hard, heat treat wise. I have epoxied rings in place on my own rifles. I created a mechanical lock by undercutting both mating parts with a groove. Never had one come out to date. Actually it is only cosmetic anyway, as nothing of any consequence actually touches it. Many ways to do this.
Paul
I have done them like this using JB Weld and have not had one come loose yet. 300 Win Mag test actions that get shot nearly every day.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
Super glue would hold it. Its not under any kind of pressure. Theres a bunch of them out there with jb weld holding them in just fine
Upgrades & Donations
This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.
Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.
You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.
To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.