Bluing tanks

[Lucky shot]

I would like to weld up my own bluing tanks. Is mild steel O.K. to use for them?

 

[markr]

Take into account that the salts are very corrosive!

 

[Lucky shot]

Thanks for the reply. I will go with it as I have lots of 3/8" steel plate that was free and I am old.

 

[shortgrass]

Bluing tanks are generally made of 12 to 16 gauge mild steel (black iron). Think of the extra gas it will take, to bring it to a boil, if it's made of 3/8" thick material.

 

[armistemjim]

Remember you must be able to turn down or up on the burner to control boil. Most salts require a stable heat and that thick of metal will cause a lot of the temp variations. You will not get quality blue on your metal.
Also remember your rod has to be copper free or you kill your salts.

 

[larry 1944]

To control temp you add water. Dont change the burner. Get a free set of instructions from Brownells. Use a stainless tank for the rinse.

 

[Lucky shot]

I started welding up the bluing tank this evening. I feel that the tank may require additional time and gas to reach bluing temp but once there the mass will aid in maintaining even temperature thru-out its' length also temp changes should be slow to occur due to the additional mass. Again the steel was free.
I have read Brownell's directions for bluing in his Gunsmith Kinksand understand how to control temperature with salts. I see that they sell fiberglass tanks and assume these would be O.K. for pre-cleaning, rinse and oiling. Brownells say the glass tanks are O.K. to 300 degrees. Are these solutions used below that temperature? If so, I will also fabricate my own of fiberglass tanks and use hot water tank heating elements in them. ( I had my own fiberglass boat repair business and have lots of those materials around the shop) Comments and opinions are welcome and appreciated.
Did I say the steel was free and I have fiberglass materials on hand?