Blueprinting Rem 700 triggers

[BenchShooter]

Where can the parts be bought to modify a Remington trigger is the question? I for one would love to know.

It's so nice to see a mature adult request for that information compared to the past adolescent level requests which never went answered because I, for one, choose to not communicate with immature forum ruffians about...... well, anything. I find them unsophisticated, insignificant and not worth my time.

From what I remember, the guy that did my 700 trigger ordered a leaver or leavers from one place and a pack of springs from another. Not sure if it was one or more leavers. I know it was two places because the leaver(s) took a lot longer to get here than the springs. After he got all the 'PARTS', he had to do some machining to some of the 'PARTS' in order to get the trigger to where he told me he could.

As far as I know, there is no kit to do this but I could be wrong. There are many other people I have met over the years at one shoot or another that have had Smiths do such to their triggers. Not being a gunsmith or machinist, I do not know the intricacies of doing the job. However my trigger is proof that the task can be done.

Also, my trigger was done 8 years ago and its still as fine today as it was 8 years ago.

Again, thank you for the mature courtesy with which you asked your question. It was a pleasure to offer an answer.

 

[dixieppc]

Where can the parts be bought to modify a Remington trigger is the question? I for one would love to know.

I had basically the same thing done to my trigger that Dana had done to his from what I am reading that Dana had done. Mine started out by a request to the gunsmith to acquire and install a Jard Model 'V' Remington 700 upgrade kit which is advertised to give you a minimum of 9 ounces. The gunsmith said that he could do the same thing as the Jard upgrade kit for half the price of the Jard upgrade kit and give me a few less ounces than the Jard's advertised 9 ounces. I told him to go for it and order whatever he needed from wherever he needed. It's not a Jewel Trigger but I have less than 9 oz for an investment of $45 parts and labor. If the advertised 9 oz is fine with you, get a Jard Model 'V' upgrade kit. I think it runs around $55-$65 or did back when I was thinking of going that route.

And I second Dana's appreciation of the courtesy you shared when asking for the information.

Regards......

 

[shortgrass]

We won't get an answer to this.

And we still don't know where to get the "parts" or the gunsmith contact info. I'm grouchy, too, I guess. Most 'gunsmiths' like it when their name gets mentioned in a positive way on the web.

 

[DickE]

Well, well, well. today is 12/16/14. Has everyone read the daily bulletin about the trigger springs. I guess everyone doesn't know everything about somethings. I'm going to order some parts from Ernie.

 

[Danny1788]

I've used Ernie springs in remingtons with great results, not going to get them down to OZ with just a spring, but stoning the sear and trigger and his spring makes for a crisp creep free trigger aaround 1-1/2 to 2lbs great for a hunting rifle IMO.

I have been looking at the Jard trigger leavers and have read a few posts saying that they are cheaply made and the customer service is crap. For only $55 i might give this a try and clean up the surfaces myself with an ultra fine stone.

If anyone has installed one of the Jard two leaver design kits i would he happy to hear your experience?

 

[BoydAllen]

There are a couple of things that can be done to a factory, old style Remington trigger. One is to disassemble it and do a through cleaning and deburring of all surfaces and edges. The other is to replace the trigger spring with a lighter (smaller wire diameter) one from an aftermarket supplier. Erniethegunsmith.com comes to mind, but there are others. I believe that Brownells has a kit, and perhaps Holland Gunsmithing. The important thing to remember with all of this is not to try to go lighter than your parts and design will go safely. This means that you need enough sear engagement, and the trigger spring should be sufficiently compressed so that it resets reliably, and will continue to, if the trigger gets a little dirty over time. Any proper trigger job should allow you to slam the bolt closed as hard as you can, thump the butt vigorously on the floor (with some padding if you do not have a butt pad), slap the comb of the stock as hard as you can, while holding the rifle free of rests in any position, horizontal or vertical, and operate the safety without the trigger releasing. I have run onto a lot of otherwise nice fellows who seem to be retarded about triggers, explaining to me that the trigger job of adjustment that they are so proud of requires careful manipulation of the bolt. Geez! Keep these fellows away from me. Triggers that are designed to be used at much lower pull weights than factory triggers are safe at, have different internal workings to make them safe to operate at light pulls. IMO no amount of fiddling can take a Remington trigger down to the levels that they are routinely set to without actual modification of the design, by adding an additional lever, and to my knowledge, this is a change that requires part fabrication (not purchase) and housing modification, as well as elimination of the safety (on so called conversion triggers).

 

[hothead]

Ernie has good springs. the right tension to get a good SAFE trigger pull. also I use his sear springs . Everything I got from Ernie is top notch.
He has good products .
There is nothing wrong with Brownells set. Just when I needed to order springs I tried a different vendor. I use Brownells a lot . like in a lot. as far as Ernie , if he has a product I need , he gets my business.
HH

 

[shortgrass]

There are a couple of things that can be done to a factory, old style Remington trigger. One is to disassemble it and do a through cleaning and deburring of all surfaces and edges. The other is to replace the trigger spring with a lighter (smaller wire diameter) one from an aftermarket supplier. Erniethegunsmith.com comes to mind, but there are others. I believe that Brownells has a kit, and perhaps Holland Gunsmithing. The important thing to remember with all of this is not to try to go lighter than your parts and design will go safely. This means that you need enough sear engagement, and the trigger spring should be sufficiently compressed so that it resets reliably, and will continue to, if the trigger gets a little dirty over time. Any proper trigger job should allow you to slam the bolt closed as hard as you can, thump the butt vigorously on the floor (with some padding if you do not have a butt pad), slap the comb of the stock as hard as you can, while holding the rifle free of rests in any position, horizontal or vertical, and operate the safety without the trigger releasing. I have run onto a lot of otherwise nice fellows who seem to be retarded about triggers, explaining to me that the trigger job of adjustment that they are so proud of requires careful manipulation of the bolt. Geez! Keep these fellows away from me. Triggers that are designed to be used at much lower pull weights than factory triggers are safe at, have different internal workings to make them safe to operate at light pulls. IMO no amount of fiddling can take a Remington trigger down to the levels that they are routinely set to without actual modification of the design, by adding an additional lever, and to my knowledge, this is a change that requires part fabrication (not purchase) and housing modification, as well as elimination of the safety (on so called conversion triggers).

Anyone who'd 'convert' a Remington trigger to add an extra lever must not value their time very much. I've got a coffee can full of them. The internals appear to be stampings because of the many rounded corners I see........ Ya' they might be "fixed", but at what cost? And what would the liabilty of such a conversion be? Any hobbiest will do lots of things that a 'gunsmith' won't, simply because of liability. The price of the new "Calvin Elite" that Timney makes is very attractive and designed and produced by a reputable company. If a 'worked over' Remington factory trigger is good enough for you, that's fine with me. At the last match I attended the safety rules were strictly enforced. There's alot more to triggers than "springs".

 

[LHSmith]

Funny but I thought guns were made up of parts and more parts and then even more parts. Maybe only the primadonnas that laugh at other people's equipment have super guns that aren't made up of "parts".



The money saved by not buying a jewel trigger was used to true and accurize the Remington action. OH MY GOD!!!! The old primadonna fart is probably bouncing off the walls with that one. Trailer Trash like me using a Remington action instead of a gold plated Hall action or something like that which has his stamp of approval on it from his lofty broach of excellence.


Dana

Actually, Eddie's and his Mrs.'s (Sarah), "super guns" are Remington 721's. To see the full scope of their accomplishments, check out the IBS archives for match reports....particularly the States and Nationals Tournaments, and "Records" section. Did I mention Eddie was also the smith. Yep, Eddie prefers to win the old fashioned way using non-customs.

 

[Eddie Harren]

Smitty, actually mine is a 722 and Sara's is a 700. Still Remingtons though. Signed sincerely, the Old Primadonna Fart!

I sent the "BenchShooter" a PM but he has not acknowledged it.

 

[butchlambert]

Dang Eddie,
I think most thought that you had a fortune and spent it on your equipment. You old Primadonna Fart!

 

[BenchShooter]

I've used Ernie springs in remingtons with great results, not going to get them down to OZ with just a spring, but stoning the sear and trigger and his spring makes for a crisp creep free trigger aaround 1-1/2 to 2lbs great for a hunting rifle IMO.

I have been looking at the Jard trigger leavers and have read a few posts saying that they are cheaply made and the customer service is crap. For only $55 i might give this a try and clean up the surfaces myself with an ultra fine stone.

If anyone has installed one of the Jard two leaver design kits i would he happy to hear your experience?

I have a model V Upgrade Kit (PARTS) on order and will have a local Smith do the upgrade for me hopefully in January. I will be more than happy to afford you the courtesy of letting you know how it goes.

Respectfully,
Dana

 

[glbreil]

Jard makes a kit that they claim will bring it down to 9oz.

Sorry for the duplication, I missed that Jard had already been mentioned.

I have been shooting a rem trigger for several years now that I designed and cut new parts for and converted to 2oz. It has worked flawlessly. I will post a picture when I get to a computer.

Gary

Of course the parts go inside the trigger housing and it utilizes the factory sear spring and I installed a new trigger return spring.

 

[BoydAllen]

I have seen pictures of the internal designs of just about every version of a trigger that will fit in a Remington. Yours is original, clever, and very well executed. It would be interesting to graph it, and test it for consistency. It looks like it might do very well. Can you get away with a decent amount of sear engagement and still have a light pull?

 

[glbreil]

Thanks Boyd,

I made this trigger several years ago and it works very well. I made two and always thought I would make more but haven't ever found time. I wish I could make it work with a factory safety but I haven't found a way to fit all the parts in with the factory safety.

I have made several triggers that fit the factory housing but this is the best and most secure I have ever come up with. I am not exactly sure what graphing a trigger entails, but I would be interested to know how it stacks up to a given set of standards.

Thanks Gary

 

[butchlambert]

Gary,
Did you get my PM?

 

[glbreil]

I did get it Butch and replied. I would love to get it tested, just send me some information on how to send it to you.

Thanks Gary

 

[BoydAllen]

http://www.manthei-mess-systeme.com/gb_triggerscan_introduction.htm

 

[glbreil]

Looks complicated!

 

[BenchShooter]

Jard makes a kit that they claim will bring it down to 9oz.

Sorry for the duplication, I missed that Jard had already been mentioned.

I have been shooting a rem trigger for several years now that I designed and cut new parts for and converted to 2oz. It has worked flawlessly. I will post a picture when I get to a computer.

Gary

Of course the parts go inside the trigger housing and it utilizes the factory sear spring and I installed a new trigger return spring.

Very interesting what you have done. I really like this. There have been successes in the past to safely upgrade Remington triggers to make them light pulls. If you read this full thread you see that there have been at least two of us that have successfully had this done even to the venom of the site bullies.

I am in the process of having a second Remington trigger upgraded. Unlike the first, this one is having a Jard commercial upgrade kit installed which is supposed to bring the pull down to somewhere around 9 ounces. Should be getting it back before the end of the month and we'll see what the pull gauge says.

My first upgrade and this present upgrade are not supposed to equal the quality of a jewel trigger but they fit my budget and I am happy with the first upgrade as I hope I will be with the Jard upgrade.

I wish you all the luck in the world with your upgrade and if you ever decide to market it, I will definitely be one of your first customers.

Respectfully,
Dana