I've got a real tough question about shoulder bumping your brass. This is going to be a little tricky to explain, but here goes. I have a Blaser rifle which has a straight back throw bolt. You do not lift the bolt handle at all. The bolt head does not have any lugs on it. It has a 360 deg. radial lock up bolt head. It looks similar to a router Collete. When the bolt is pushed straight forward, the bolt head enters the barrel and just before it bottoms out it expands 360 degrees into a recess cut in the barrel resembling a large O ring that has half of it's diameter cut down flat. , imagine an O ring that has been laid on a belt sander and have half of it's thickness sanded off.) This is where Blaser gets a lot of it's accuracy because you always lock up with zero head space on the brass. The bolt head can be expanded and locked up a little forward or a little backward in this grove to accommodate different lengths of brass within a certain tolerance range. With this system you cannot feel bolt resistance like you can on a bolt that rotates downward into lock up. So, how do you determine shoulder bump?. What I have been doing so far is to fire new brass once and then set my die to match that with no bump. Any information on this would be welcome.