No the cylinder(working barrel) is at the bottom of the string of pipe, this is where the water enters.Do you have galvanized pipe on both sides of the brass cylinder?
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No the cylinder(working barrel) is at the bottom of the string of pipe, this is where the water enters.Do you have galvanized pipe on both sides of the brass cylinder?
.0015 is pretty incredible on that large a coupling. In the recreational boating world on much smaller couplings .003 is the accepted "standard". This is with couplings on shafts 3/4" to 3" with couplings from 4" to 10" or so. At least thats what most shoot for. Getting it that close you will feel no vibration as long as the bearings are in good shape & the wheel is pitched & balanced properly. Tip clearance plays a role too.The coupling end of the shaft has a coupling that fits on a 1 inch in 12 inch taper per foot. We have to “blue fit” the coupling o he shaft just like the prop end.
The coupling has about a 18 inch diameter flange that mates to the reduction gear. The gear manufacturer requires no more than .0015 inch run out on the face of the flange when installed.
her is a picture of the shaft coupling mated to the reduction gear.
View attachment 1341095
There is one in the water heater heater of my house. I replace it about every 3 yearsDon't forget the one in the water heater of your RV.
I have die pen and put developer on many strut on Caterpillar mining truck. And seen lots of crack just like you did.Here is the crack in the shaft. We cut it down this far and the fracture was still there.
We can do a repair if the crack is no more than 10% into the core shaft. You can see the thin red die penetrant line still visible.View attachment 1340974
The way we insure that the coupling face uncouth is as close to zero as possible is for the final operation on a shaft and coupling assembly we place the shaft back in the lathe and install the coupling on the taper. If there is any runout, we take a very light skin over the coupling face. We then remove it and put it back on and check it. we are shooting for “zero”..0015 is pretty incredible on that large a coupling. In the recreational boating world on much smaller couplings .003 is the accepted "standard". This is with couplings on shafts 3/4" to 3" with couplings from 4" to 10" or so. At least thats what most shoot for. Getting it that close you will feel no vibration as long as the bearings are in good shape & the wheel is pitched & balanced properly. Tip clearance plays a role too.
Of course these vessels have much less HP (30-600 or so) & much shorter shafts.
.0015 is OUTSTANDING!!!
I realize thats what the gear manufacturer calls for...but gotta wonder what it actually is.
Keith
That is a nice sized lathe...... Lodge & Shipley?The way we insure that the coupling face uncouth is as close to zero as possible is for the final operation on a shaft and coupling Assyrian, we place the shaft back in the lathe and install the coupling on the taper. If there is any runout, we take a very light skin over the coupling face. We then remove it and put it back on and check it. we are shooting for “zero”.
We do this because when the shipyard checks the coupling to gear alignment, they only give you .003 tolerance on the alignment. Insuring that the shaft/coupling assembly left shop dead true is simply removing one more variate ithe equation.
here is a picture of a coupling being checked for the final time in our 38’ American Lathe.View attachment 1341725
No, American.That is a nice sized lathe...... Lodge & Shipley?
^^^^^^^No, American.
I ran a 48 (swing) 15ft between centers LeBlond ....plus a 72 walderich & a 40 inch Hercules....gap bed machines .....I love seeing what your doing...please keep posting^^^^^^^
To be exact, a twin carriage American Pacemaker.
We can work 38 feet between centers.
We also have a 32 foot Leehmann, a 28 ft Leblond, and a 28 ft Kingston, plus multitudes of smaller engine lathes.
We used an old 56” swing by 32’ NR LeBlond for years, but needed more length.I’m fascinated by this!
My first job was rough turning huge freshly forged cranks on an old LeBlond.
Last Friday I had a 1" shaft out of a sailboat for cutlass bearing & the o-rings on the dripless shaft seal replacement. I always check the shaft runs true & reface the coupling whenever one is out of the boat. Just SOP.The way we insure that the coupling face uncouth is as close to zero as possible is for the final operation on a shaft and coupling assembly we place the shaft back in the lathe and install the coupling on the taper. If there is any runout, we take a very light skin over the coupling face. We then remove it and put it back on and check it. we are shooting for “zero”.
We do this because when the shipyard checks the coupling to gear alignment, they only give you .003 tolerance on the alignment. Insuring that the shaft/coupling assembly left shop dead true is simply removing one more variate ithe equation.
here is a picture of a coupling being checked for the final time in our 38’ American Lathe.View attachment 1341725
Reduction gears will have an overall reduction from 4 to 1 to 7 to 1, depending on the input RPM, torque, and ideal prop speed.Last Friday I had a 1" shaft out of a sailboat for cutlass bearing & the o-rings on the dripless shaft seal replacement. I always check the shaft runs true & reface the coupling whenever one is out of the boat. Just SOP.
Most of these smaller vessels engines are not rigid mounted. They sit on flexible engine mounts & have a Drivesaver installed between the couplings. You can get away with a little misalignment with these configurations. As I mentioned, .003 is the acceptable standard & you could probably get away with as much as .010 without any significant vibration. All that in a wood vessel & the owner is in 7th heaven as wood absorbs alot
I'm sure thats not the case in the steel tug/pushboats you're dealing with.
Just out of curiosity whats the reduction on the gears if any?