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Big problems with new gun

I had a new rifle built by a local gunsmith and it will not group at all with any kind of ammo or different scopes. It is a Remington 700 action with a Lilja heavy barrel. The barrel came as a rifled blank and he throated and chambered it. He trued the action and when you close the bolt empty or with a round you can feel it drag. The barrel is free floated and doesn't touch anywhere. I have been fighting this rifle for two years and nothing seems to help. I have taken back to him three times and he can't seem to fix it he has had it back now for about 6 months and I've heard nothing from him. Any suggestions besides a new gunsmith? It is guaranteed and I already paid for it in full.
 
Dont want to sound like a wise *ss,but is it possible you have a long scope base screw where it shouldnt be?
 
Ballistic, you're not a wise A.. Years ago I had the same problem so I would check the bottoming out of base screws but also check to see the scope is not moving in the rings due to recoil, loose screws or an oily condition. I would start there first and then gradually eliminate the higher priced possibilities. And yes, I would definitely change your professional gunsmith
 
What caliber..? What brass..? What load..? What bullet..? what barrel twist...?
You haven't given any details...
What is the average groups you get??
Do you know how to shoot with wind flags..?
There is more to this than meets the eye..
 
I tried every factory load I could find in 120 grain bullets and they all give the same result. With a three shot group one will be off the paper and the other two are about 4 inches apart. I'm not an ego freak and don't claim to be a super shooter but I have a .308 from HS Precision and it shoots 10 shots into a 1 inch by 1 inch square prone off my bipod at 100 yards consistently. My bases are two piece Nightforce bases with matching Nightforce rings. I don't know what twist the barrel has I will find out. The rifle is a 7mm-08. I will check the screws on the bases I hadn't thought of that, thanks for the replies and suggestions.
 
First, if he's had it for six months and hasn't figured it out, then its time to find a new gunsmith. When you get the rifle back, strip the bolt and see if you still have resistance when closing it. It should fall into the fully closed position without any help. If it doesn't, then something is amiss. Could be the front action screw is contacting the bottom bolt lug,easy fix), or that the bolt nose is binding on the barrel counterbore somewhere. A gunsmith will need to correct this.
 
It was wrong to deliver the rifle to you the first time, if any resistance can be felt when you close the bolt, period. Have you tried it w/o the firing pin assembly in the rifle? It should drop closed, quickly, from gravity, if the firing pin is not in place. If it does not, something is amiss with the clearance,or no clearance) at the rear end of the barrel. If it does, you need to investigate the firing pin assembly.
Analysis of the problem should not take over 10 min. by a competent gunsmith. I'd get it back from this person and get it to a REAL gunsmith. Or a machinist that does his own barreling.
 
What they said about the action. Once that is found and fixed, take a good look at the stock. You didn't say what the rifle is stocked in, and that is critical for accuracy. A Rem 700 with a Lilja hvy barrel in 7-08 should shoot at least 1/2 moa, and maybe 1/4 moa or better.

Get the rifle back and get it to another 'smith. You're going to be out some more money, but when you have good parts, Rem, Lilja, etc, the gun can be made to shoot, but only out of a good stock. The best metalwork is wasted otherwise.

Good luck and let us know what happens. Tom
 
There is resistance when the bolt is closed, I can feel it drag pretty hard even on an empty chamber. I pointed that out to him the first time I took the rifle back to him and I "suggested" that there was something a miss. I also found scrape marks on one of the bolt lugs and showed him that too. He basically ignored me and said that the bolt closed hard because it was a match chamber and he would lap out the marks. The stock is a Pac-Nor, I originally wanted a Mcmillan or an HS Precision but he really pushed the Pac-Nor so I thought I would try it. I think I will go get the rifle and send it to someone else he has had plenty of chances to fix it and I haven't heard from him since late summer last year. Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas.
 
Scrape mark on the bolt lug, what part? side, front, back? If it is on the outside then it sounds like your front action screw is too long and there is a chace it is not tight enough.
 
I don't know enough to guess why the feller hasn't taken care of the problem, but you need to get your rifle back now. It's been there way too long. It should only take a very few minutes to determine what's dragging. It ain't rocket science. I said that you were going to be out some more money, but with the rifle in your hand, you probably can find what's wrong with it from the questions and suggestions on this thread.

Good luck. I hope it's something simple and you don't even need another 'smith. If the scrape mark is on the outer end of the bottom locking lug, try tightening the front action screw; if the bolt gets harder or won't turn, then loosen the screw. If the bolt frees up, gunnut is right on both counts. Hard to believe it could be that simple, but possible.

Tom
 
I got the rifle back and checked the screws and they are all fine. I ordered an HS precision heavy varmit stock and am going to have somebody else fit it for me and see if that helps. Thanks to everyone for your help.
 

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