Best Way to remove lube without removing carbon from the neck?

[dcali]

You can use acetone to rinse off lanolin based lube, but the acetone gets full of lube fairly quickly and once it’s got a bunch dissolved, it leaves a thin layer behind. It’s best to dip twice- once in a dirt batch and then follow up with a cleaner batch. Acetone is pretty benign health-wise, but it gets kind of expensive to use this way.

 

[dgeesaman]

I need to figure out how to remove lube from the cases after sizing without removing the carbon from the necks. I have wrist issues, so if I want to continue loading I need a method different than "wipe each case down manually". I have a wet tumbler setup but I worry about the pins getting stuck and if I miss one then I destroy the AMP machine and the pins get the necks too clean.

I wipe down each brass while it's in my priming tool. Squeeze in primer, don't let go of the brass, wipe with a paper towel.

That is still manual but it's a lot less annoying than trying to hold the slippery bugger in your fingers.

 

[hogpatrol]

Another option for removing sizing wax is a rag wet with mineral spirits.

 

[Webster]

I need to figure out how to remove lube from the cases after sizing without removing the carbon from the necks. I have wrist issues, so if I want to continue loading I need a method different than "wipe each case down manually". I have a wet tumbler setup but I worry about the pins getting stuck and if I miss one then I destroy the AMP machine and the pins get the necks too clean.

A few times on a sunny day I put the cases on a paper towel on the driveway. Next they were sprayed with brake cleaner. Put them on a second clean dry towel and sprayed a 2nd. time. About 50 cases. Brake cleaner $? I look in every case with a flashlight to check for pins. You don't want to destroy the barrel with one shot.

 

[Clancy]

I think this is getting thought about way too much.

Size the cases, throw them in a corn cob tumbler, wait 30 minutes or so, separate the media.

Carbon stays in the neck. I think you could tumble them for a week and not lose all the carbon.

 

[David Christian]

@_Raining, I would love to see your empirical data that shows the importance of leaving the carbon in the necks.

What if that did not matter and you could create the same consistency in neck tension? Would you think differently about your lube and cleaning question?

 

[Campbell]

I need to figure out how to remove lube from the cases after sizing without removing the carbon from the necks. I have wrist issues, so if I want to continue loading I need a method different than "wipe each case down manually". I have a wet tumbler setup but I worry about the pins getting stuck and if I miss one then I destroy the AMP machine and the pins get the necks too clean.

A question from a 3 year experienced (i.e. novice) reloader: If one anneals their cases, then why does one want any carbon left in the neck prior to doing so? Does the residual carbon get baked into the neck and thus causes potential inconsistency?

My inclination would be to clean the necks, anneal, and turn/bush to a consistent neck tension.

As for SS pins been stuck, the MK1 eye ball would be my choice of tool.

 

[fredo]

I wipe down each brass while it's in my priming tool. Squeeze in primer, don't let go of the brass, wipe with a paper towel.

That is still manual but it's a lot less annoying than trying to hold the slippery bugger in your fingers.

Yup, me too, kinda...

The small dab of Imperial applied to neck/shoulder is wiped right off, soon as the case is resized. So, it's a quick smear of Imperial, a trip thru the die/press, then a wipe with an old t shirt to immediately remove the lube...

Can get tedious, en mass, but a hunnert at a clip ain't terrible. And, given that I mostly use bushing dies (with no expander), no need to get lube inside the neck. And, a tiny bit of Imperial goes a long way! So, it's easy to wipe right off, and finish brass prep with a loop around the Case Prep to chamfer/deburr/clean pockets/etc...

 

[JimSC]

@_Raining, I would love to see your empirical data that shows the importance of leaving the carbon in the necks.

when the base of that bullet gets hit with 40K + psi it really does not give a rats patoot about anything except getting the hell out of there.

 

[ChrisA]

Using One Shot lube; rinse sized case in hot water with dish soap then use Iosso case cleaner.

Have also wiped down the loaded cartridge with acytone and a paper towel when I don't have time to let cases dry. This is a bit tedious and harder on the hands if you have a bunch to do.

Chris

 

[Erud]

I also use the Hornady One Shot spray lube, but I just don't clean it off at all. Some gets inside the case mouth and provides additional lube for seating. Cases go straight from the sizer die to getting powder dumped in 5 seconds later, to getting a bullet seated 5 seconds after that. They shoot fine that way.

 

[rr2030]

Imperial sizing wax then put cases in Tupperware filled with Acetone, slosh it around then drain the acetone through a coffee filter back into it can.

 

[JMayo]

It's clear some ppl don't READ ! Lol

Towel rolling them after dunking in cleaner seems to be the way to go.
TO GET THE LUBE OFF...BECAUSE WRIST PROBLEMS.

 

[eas1949]

I remove all the carbon in the necks cleaning ultrasonically. Then, using a cue tip dipped in Neolube #2, paint the inside necks. This provides a better neck lubrication than trying to keep the carbon intact.

Eric

https://www.micromark.com/Neolube-2...MI4uPt9p3o3gIVlrrACh35Kwj9EAQYASABEgJjjPD_BwE

 

[10XSHOOTER]

I use Redding Lube, then stick them on the pins in my dishwasher. (it will hold 120) Wash regular cycle with hot water. Dry cycle. Doesn't get the brass hot enough to hurt them.

 

[Papa Charlie]

I hear you on the hands and wrists, I have switched to Redding Biodegradable Case Lube. This lube is great for sizing, easily washes off with water and a little soap.
I put cases in a colander and submerge in soapy water, swish around and rinse. Then I put in convection oven for 20 minutes at 200 degrees to dry.
Very easy, don't have to worry about damaging the cases in a tumbler after I spent all that time prepping and sizing and most importantly, don't have to worry about lube in the case neck or contaminating the powder after I seat the bullet.

 

[savagedasher]

I think this is getting thought about way too much.

Size the cases, throw them in a corn cob tumbler, wait 30 minutes or so, separate the media.

Carbon stays in the neck. I think you could tumble them for a week and not lose all the carbon.

Put a little liquid car polish in it

 

[nmkid]

Spray cases with Hornady One Shot. Size. Place cases on towel and spray with Gun Scrubber. Cover all cases with towel and rub cases together. Done.

 

[BOB LEE SWAGGER]

I use my AMP first, they instruct that cases don't have to be clean to be annealed. On some calibers I body size then SS and neck size with titanium bushing after to avoid the stuck pins. You will simply have to compromise - carbon in necks with pain - or SS and no pain. I would rather keep shooting the best way that I can. Obviously many of the really good shooters advise to leave the carbon in the necks but unless you are competing at a high level and feel that you need every bit of advantage you are probably better off with a system that is optimal for YOU.

 

[Clancy]

Put a little liquid car polish in it

Don’t want to.... makes them shiny and removes carbon.