Best way to get carbon out of the throat area??
- Thread starter Raptor
- Start date
ShootDots said:
Hey Ben - new pellets? I've been using the VFG felt pellets for 12 years plus. Is there a different one that is new?
I believe they have a "new / improved" material... They are quite stout and somewhat "rough" if that is the correct term. I got an email about a year ago from Brownells that had a video in it advertising the "pellets".. My friend "Vince" who bought the JLK's from you a year or so ago, has the "softer" pellets (probably what you have been using) and uses them all the time. I bought the "newer version" and they are STOUT! If I am going to do my 6mm barrel, I place 2 6mm pellets on FIRST then place a 22 cal on top so that it "enters" the bore. if you use 3 of the new pellets, you can NOT get them started in the bore! BUT CLEAN THEY WILL!!!
ShootDots said:
Huh, I only see the two kinds, plain and super intensive (these have brass in embedded in them).
I can tell ya that the 6mms are the tightest fitting of any, and I have every size of them...
They do a nice job, no question, just a bit spendy...
Raptor, I will tell you how I do it, there are, I am quite sure, many opinions on this issue. The "pellets" are on the Brownell's web-page. You WILL need a "special" jag and it is there too. My suggestion is to call Brownell's and speak with Phil or Bob about the EXACT product(s) you need, they can help. Now as far as how I do it: If I am doing my 6mm barrels, I place the jag on a cleaning rod, (2) 6mm "pellets" on FIRST and TOP it off with a 22cal pellet>>>T-Rust me on this! Then I oil them up, push thru a VERY CLEAN BORE, that simply has a build up of carbon. Then I do that again.. This will "swage" those pellets to fit the bore. Then I rub JB on the pellets and "short stroke" about 40 "passes" the throat. Every 10 "strokes" I renew some JB on the pellets. I do that 4x's. That is 4 x 10 or 40 strokes in the throat area..Then I renew the JB again and do about 40 more strokes evenly from stem to stern as it were. Here is a trick: Take some duct tape and place it across the muzzle so the "pellets" stay inside the barrel so you can pull it back thru. If you do not, you will have to unscrew the jag, pull the rod back thru, re-screw on the jag and do it again! Just tape over the muzzle and don't fret.. Like I stated, that is how I do it.. Then GET ALL of the JB out and "clean" the barrel again as if it were shot and needed "normal" cleaning. This will get all the JB "residue" out of the bore. Make sure you get it out of the entire action too! I hope this helps..
Mark, mine must be the "Super Intensive" ones... All I know is, is they are NOT the same as the "normal" felt pellets. I got the email from Brownells with the video in it and I tried those pellets>>>they WORK! Like I said, they are "rough and they are stout".. They clean that hard carbon out quickly... When you say they have "brass" in them>>>I saw "shiny particles" in them>>>did not know it was brass>>>but it works!!
Raptor said:
Take a bronze brush on a short rod using Carb Out or Bore Tech Carbon Eliminator. Just enter the throat area of the brush and turn brush about 20 times; don't push into rifling. Let sit for about ten minutes. Repeat if very stubborn and then clean as usual. I got this tip from Tony Boyers book and have verified it's effectiveness with a borescope.
I had a carbon build up in a 284 barrel that JBs simply would not shift. Sweets and Butchs Bore Shine.....Boretech Eliminator ....all failed to touch it. Tried a Carby cleaner...didn't touch it.
A mate, Mark Fairbairn (who just came back from the FCWC with a Gold Medal as part of the Aussie team) , gave me some KG1 to try. He sells it here in Australia thru his company Wild Dog Australia
I have a Hawkeye borescope and use it every single time I clean.
First use, and the carbon was partly gone.
2nd use, followed by the KG 2 (which is slightly abrasive) and the carbon was totally gone.
It looks like Windex window cleaner....feels like Windex....smells like Windex...but works amazingly well on carbon for me. It is now the first stage of cleaning for me every single time.
A mate, Mark Fairbairn (who just came back from the FCWC with a Gold Medal as part of the Aussie team) , gave me some KG1 to try. He sells it here in Australia thru his company Wild Dog Australia
I have a Hawkeye borescope and use it every single time I clean.
First use, and the carbon was partly gone.
2nd use, followed by the KG 2 (which is slightly abrasive) and the carbon was totally gone.
It looks like Windex window cleaner....feels like Windex....smells like Windex...but works amazingly well on carbon for me. It is now the first stage of cleaning for me every single time.
there seems to be a bit of confusion. the "throat area" suggest the part of the rifle bore known on a reamer print as the "throat". correct me if i'm wrong, this section of the bore is the very beginning of the slope of the lands going until the full thickness of the lands is reached. the short section just before the "throat" is called the leade or freebore. the section just before the freebore is the actual chamber and there is always a short section just in front of the case mouth that develops the "carbon ring" that can be VERY resistent to removal. the member using the aluminum arrow shaft was attacking this deposit of carbon. you can suspect this ring is present if you patch out a bore until it is "absolutely" clean, then you run a bronze brush followed by a patch and WTH a dirty patch! the bronze brush just picked some carbon out of the chamber. repeat the brush with any cleaning agent and in time, it's gone. "throat area" and bore carbon will come out with reapeated solvent or abrasives or brushes or any combination of these. an effective way to get the carbon ring is as tony boyer cemonstrates in his book...spin a bronze or tenex brush in the last few thous of the chamber using jb and solvent and dry patch. needless to say, a borescope tells it all.
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