Best Practice for using Iosso Bore Cleaner?

[drop_point]

Not opening up. Smoothing, causing more surface contact, raising pressure to create more velo. Can’t get velo without pressure. Open up would reduce pressures, lowering velo.

"The barrel in question measured over .002" larger than when it was made. It went from shooting .500" at 200 yds to 4" . The finish was something I had never seen before or since. I had the barrel maker lap it to get the finish restored and shot it again. No change"

This is what Mr. Tooley stated earlier in the thread.

Would seem smoothing a barrel is a good thing, but after I use them, the barrel gets slower for the first few rounds after I use abrasives. There must be a significant difference in the way I'm using them than others.

 

[Emmett Dibble]

Not opening up. Smoothing, causing more surface contact, raising pressure to create more velo. Can’t get velo without pressure. Open up would reduce pressures, lowering velo.

Isn't that the same as lapping the barrel too? Which is a "premium" finish?

 

[rebs]

6mm Dewey Nylon Bore Brushes (dozen)

These black nylon bore brushes from J. Dewey (the cleaning rod people) have very heavy nylon bristles, fit snuggly in the rifle bore and are excellent for use with paste type bore cleaners like Iosso or JB Paste.

www.pmatool.com

for a 223 rifle what size works best, do you use an over sized brush

 

[BoydAllen]

for a 223 rifle what size works best, do you use an over sized brush

To be truthful I have done most of my IOSSO work on my PPC but for that that I did on .22s I used a .22 brush. To me it seems that I want just enough pressure on the bore from the brush, not too little or too much, and to let the abrasive do the work. Recently I have switched to Thorroclean/Thorroflush but if I decide to pick up another tube of IOSSO, I will probably do some experimenting, possibly wetting the bore with a good amount of very light oil, in the area that I will be scrubbing, before starting with the IOSSO. I may also experiment with that for my initial removal. I have always been very careful about going to extremes to get it all out, and I will continue with that. When I read of someone that gives the impression of just doing a couple of patches, I cringe a bit, because IOSSO has been the last thing that I do before shooting again and if there is any left, I would be shooting over it.

 

[pilediver]

To be truthful I have done most of my IOSSO work on my PPC but for that that I did on .22s I used a .22 brush. To me it seems that I want just enough pressure on the bore from the brush, not too little or too much, and to let the abrasive do the work. Recently I have switched to Thorroclean/Thorroflush but if I decide to pick up another tube of IOSSO, I will probably do some experimenting, possibly wetting the bore with a good amount of very light oil, in the area that I will be scrubbing, before starting with the IOSSO. I may also experiment with that for my initial removal. I have always been very careful about going to extremes to get it all out, and I will continue with that. When I read of someone that gives the impression of just doing a couple of patches, I cringe a bit, because IOSSO has been the last thing that I do before shooting again and if there is any left, I would be shooting over it.

I cringe when I recommend Iosso, but I use it myself, because if you leave a trace of it behind it can, and will, polish your barrel in ways that don't give good results.
I listened to Frank G talk about cleaning his barrels and the drawbacks of abrasives and Iosso in particular, saying that the barrel needs to be fully cleaned of Iosso or the polishing effect will cause accuracy degradation and copper fouling, so true!
That is a true statement, you will ruin a barrel, not from using it, but from not removing it completely.
I use it on a soft nylon brush after running several wet and dry patches to remove the loose stuff, only brushing the first 8 inches or so to remove the hard carbon , then more patches, followed by a bronze brush and more patches, and a second bronze brushing and more patches and then an inspection with the borescope, usually no carbon or copper to be dealt with at that point.
I don't require more than 1 or 2 fouling shots before getting good grouping using this technique, compared to many more fouling shots when using JB, possibly apples to oranges as I don't use JB anymore.

 

[BoydAllen]

Isn't that the same as lapping the barrel too? Which is a "premium" finish?

All barrel makers, who lap their barrels, know that if you make a barrel that is too smooth inside, that it will never stop copper fouling.

 

[Mistyrkool]

When you mix the whole tube of Iosso and the oil together, does it store well for a period of time in a jar?

You have to shake it good every time you use it. It will keep forever...

 

[Kracken McGraw]

You have to shake it good every time you use it. It will keep forever...

I think I’ll give that a try. I may use Clenz-oil as a substitute, because I have that on hand.

 

[BoydAllen]

Most any method will work if used thoughtfully and consistently. Figure out what you like to do and ignore everyone else.

Do you own a bore scope? Short answer, you are incorrect.

 

[Tesoro]

All I know is I dont pay attention to anything written by people who dont own a bore scope. So that eliminates half the posts. JB paste and no harm dewey bronze brushes for me.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

All I know is I dont pay attention to anything written by people who dont own a bore scope. So that eliminates half the posts. JB paste and no harm dewey bronze brushes for me.

I thought everyone has a teslong by now.

 

[BoydAllen]

Two make that three things that relate to this discussion: At actual sanctioned benchrest matches, watching experienced shooters, I have see a lot of junk rod guides and really bad rod technique. Secondly, I have talked to an experienced button rifle barrel maker who is an artist at lapping, and I don't want to misquote him, but it takes a lot of cycles of a cast lead lap, charged with the appropriate abrasive to enlarge the groove diameter of a barrel .0001 inch, more than you might imagine. Finally, reading some of the posts in this thread, I have come to sincerely believe that the main issue for a lot of those who have negative reports on the use of abrasives (other than those who have used them with bronze brushes) are the result of not getting every bit of the abrasive out of the barrel before shooting it. I also have seen a few posts that indicate to me that the writer does not have a bore scope. IMO, fellows who do not use bore scopes should probably stick to just reading threads about the details of cleaning barrels.

 

[jelenko]

IMO, fellows who do not use bore scopes should probably stick to just reading threads about the details of cleaning barrels.

+ a bunch.

 

[Tesoro]

The mystery is what is in JB bore paste. I have spent alot of time 'looking' and finally found a post by someone who was friends with 'Mr JB'. The secret ingredient is apparently diatomaceous earth. This is the remains of microscopic sea algea which die and sink to the ocean floor. They then fossilize and their exoskeletons turn into a glass like silica. These fossilized algea act like mr clean magic erasers picking up particles on a microscopic level. The glass is way softer than steel so It cannot affect it and it also breaks down quickly as it is brittle. And that is why I go through alot of the paste when cleaning. Quite ingenious.

 

[demarpaint1]

Old thread, great read. I ordered a few Iosso Nylon brushes as a result, and might give the GM TEC I bought 20 years ago a try. I have a Remington 581 which isn't shooting as good as it was and I plan on bore scoping it to see what's going on.

 

[ELR LVR]

Two make that three things that relate to this discussion: At actual sanctioned benchrest matches, watching experienced shooters, I have see a lot of junk rod guides and really bad rod technique. Secondly, I have talked to an experienced button rifle barrel maker who is an artist at lapping, and I don't want to misquote him, but it takes a lot of cycles of a cast lead lap, charged with the appropriate abrasive to enlarge the groove diameter of a barrel .0001 inch, more than you might imagine.

This is exactly,
my experience as I have lapped my own barrels with very improved results and found it takes about an hour to make any appreciable difference with the desired results evenly throughout the whole length of the bore.
And yes, just to change internal dimensions even .0001" may even take 2 hours
and this is with diamond compound, not silicon carbide which breaks down too fast into smaller pieces
and is why I don't believe most hand lapped barrels are worth their advertising
as I don't believe most barrel makers take even a half hour of proper handlapping with a lead lap
100 strokes minimum, maybe 200, before progressing to the next size finer grit
casting a new lap for each different sized finer grit.
It is something you want to sneak up on like machining to a fine tight tolerance
Not something you want to hurry up and hog out a bunch of material.
So it is slow and tedious
Almost worth just buying a new barrel lol
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Your button rifle barrel maker knows his stuff
Who is it if I may ask? because I'm impressed he's not lazy just wanting to get it done quick
and knows how to do it right
and upon reading your post I may try one of his barrels considering he knows the correct methods
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One reason I choose Krieger is through my independent research I read the Military spec'd out 18 Micron for their lapping and Krieger takes it down to 32 micron which is about 600 grit