Is it really a "happy spot" or is it more about keeping the level consistent in the hopper? I have one on the way that I'm excited to get going. Plan to throw h4350 and staball 6.5 out of it.Yes I have noticed this. The worst is if you screw a tub on top instead of using the hopper. I have been thinking about cutting a hole in the hopper top to fit a funnel so can refill easily to keep it in that 'happy spot' range.
yes it is a fill level that throws the most consistent loads. Best to mark it, once you find it, and then figure out lower limit and mark it as well. I am going to drill a hole in one to experiment. Hole will be same size as a large cal saturn powder funnel. Dont take it apart - just run some powder through it..a couple of hopper fulls is fine. As they are just plasticky things...I buy more than one as they dont all work equally. At least in my experience. I have 4 in action. When using log powder, every now and then you will feel like one gets stuck and needs to be crunched. Dont do this as the wiper vane is plastic. Just back off and try again so you dont damage the vane. Same consistent throw technique applies with these as others. I drilled out the lower bracket mount hole and use a larger bolt and wingnut mounted on a small plank so I can swap them out. Each one is set for a specific powder type and charge.Is it really a "happy spot" or is it more about keeping the level consistent in the hopper? I have one on the way that I'm excited to get going. Plan to throw h4350 and staball 6.5 out of it.
I've seen something about "breaking in" the thrower by running a pound of powder through it or by lapping the parts with JBs or iosso. Did you do any of that to get your throwing consistency?
This is what I do also with my RCBS Uniflow measure and FX-120i scale. I leave the top wind shield completely off the scale and use just a regular little pan that came with a beam scale. It seems plenty fast with the good scale.I'm just a newbie to the process, but so far, throwing with the Lee Auto Drum, and then trickle to final weight works for my rifle loads. Not the fastest I'm sure, but works. for pistol, I just get it dialed and then check every 10 rounds.
major difference is that you have the nice FX-120i and I have a cheap Hornady digital, but it's what's working for me now.This is what I do also with my RCBS Uniflow measure and FX-120i scale. I leave the top wind shield completely off the scale and use just a regular little pan that came with a beam scale. It seems plenty fast with the good scale.
I have two Belding and Mulls and I agree with you. I attribute their consistency to the intermediate chamber between the reservoir that keeps a repeatable "head" of powder above the metering tube. Also like the ability to visually check the charge before dumping it into the case. Have everything else from Lee measuring spoons two Harrels. Have found that constant technique is more important than the name on the measure.Having used many of the good manual powder measures, the most accurate are still the vintage Belding and Mulls. -Al
I have 2 measures..Harrels for the precision game I play, Lee for everything else. They only thing I did was machine a different metering plunger to accept a new top for easier adjustments and tracking.Owned quite a few different ones over the year. I still have a Harrels and like using it the best. Going to get flamed for this...... the inexpensive lee works as good for non- ball Powders. The lee design works and was thought out to work well. I am just not a fan of all the plastic parts. They wear a little quick for me.
Pretty much do all my loading with an autotrickler now.