Best factory .260 rifle for 1000yards?

[Quinc]

Looking to upgrade from .223 to .260 and only have about 1500$ to spend on a rifle.I already have glass. Anyone have any experience they can share with your factory rifle shooting the 139-142gr bullets out to 1k? Right now I am leaning toward the Savage LRP but wanted to check and see what the experts where using. ;D

 

[BradY]

Heard a few average reports about the savage LRP 260's

Tikka T3 would be the most consistently accurate out of the box rifle if you can find one.

Sure you could do a semi custom build of barrel and action for that money then look around for a stock. Rem 700's are pretty easy to do up and not too expensive.

 

[jonbearman]

I dont play the 1000 yd game but I can tell you that the gun you have in mind will fit the bill.If it doesnt shoot to expectation,almost everyone will sell you a pre fit to upgrade to a really fine barrel.It is best to buy your own reamer and talk to Jim Briggs at Northland Shooters Supply.His number is:1-763-682-4296 and he will tell you what you need.He has everything and his price's are the best around.

 

[alf]

If I had a $1500 budget, I certainly wouldn't blow it on a factory gun........

 

[bheadboy]

a dona 700 with RW Hart installation of Bbl truing bedding and you are under $1500 with a better rifle than any factory.

Bob

 

[GSPV]

I think you'd be a step ahead if you had a chamber throated long for the bullet that you plan to use.

Strictly an aside, but I'm pretty intrigued with Robert Whitley's improved 260. http://www.6mmar.com/260_Imp_30_.php .

 

[BradY]

I ran in my 260 30 degree improved over the weekend forming lapua cases with 45gr H4350 and 120gr SMK's. At 500 meters groups were around the 2" mark. It looked to group quite well and looks promising for finding an accurate 1000yd load. A well known shooter and gunsmith in my area had warned me a while back about straight 260's being fussy so building an improved version with a proven accuracy shoulder angle and a bit more power to push 140gr bullets seemed to be a safer option. I think its been a good call so far.

And yes I do believe the factory savage barrels did require extra throating to make the most of loading long bullets.

 

[XTR]

If you want to build one:

$570 Action - NW Action Works sells trued actions in the paid sponsors section
$325 Keriger Barrel from Bruno's
$150 chamber and mount (what Predator charged last time I looked, and they build my F class rigs for me, they shoot better than me)
$225 Trigger (I like Jewell)

That gets you to $1270, You need a stock, I bed my own, and you may want to get a reamer to get it throated for the bullet you want to shoot.


The real question is what/why are you shooting at 1000 yards? Is it competition or is it just the occasional range trip, if it's competition are you shooting F class (open) or are you doing tactical comps where you'll be taking a lot of less than 500 yard shots? If it's a dedicated 1000 yard gun then a long (30") barrel may be the right answer, but if you have to move with it or ever position shoot then you may want something shorter like a 26. How long will your strings be (long strings need heavy barrels for heat)? Will you need to carry the rifle much? I can tell you that you don't want to be lugging a 13# rifle with a varmint barrel around, but if you're taking it to a shooting point and setting up then weight may not be a concern.

 

[Quinc]

I think you'd be a step ahead if you had a chamber throated long for the bullet that you plan to use.

Strictly an aside, but I'm pretty intrigued with Robert Whitley's improved 260. http://www.6mmar.com/260_Imp_30_.php .

I like it! But damn those are some expensive dies!

If you want to build one:

$570 Action - NW Action Works sells trued actions in the paid sponsors section
$325 Keriger Barrel from Bruno's
$150 chamber and mount (what Predator charged last time I looked, and they build my F class rigs for me, they shoot better than me)
$225 Trigger (I like Jewell)

That gets you to $1270, You need a stock, I bed my own, and you may want to get a reamer to get it throated for the bullet you want to shoot.


The real question is what/why are you shooting at 1000 yards? Is it competition or is it just the occasional range trip, if it's competition are you shooting F class (open) or are you doing tactical comps where you'll be taking a lot of less than 500 yard shots? If it's a dedicated 1000 yard gun then a long (30") barrel may be the right answer, but if you have to move with it or ever position shoot then you may want something shorter like a 26. How long will your strings be (long strings need heavy barrels for heat)? Will you need to carry the rifle much? I can tell you that you don't want to be lugging a 13# rifle with a varmint barrel around, but if you're taking it to a shooting point and setting up then weight may not be a concern.

You make a good point! I was thinking a build would cost $2500+ My plan is to use it out to 1400m, I go to the range almost every weekend. I would also like to use it to compete a few times a year in F-class. Which stock(s) would you recommend?

 

[dragman]

If I wanted to be stock the LRPR from savage is the ticket! I have had a few. But with 1500 I would serch the classifeds probably wouldn't be hard to get a semi, custom with a smoked barrel for around $1000-1200 and then rebarrel it.

 

[bozo699]

If I had a $1500 budget, I certainly wouldn't blow it on a factory gun........

+1
Wayne.

 

[BigDMT]

If I had a $1500 budget, I certainly wouldn't blow it on a factory gun........

+1
Wayne.

Yep. If you do stock and trigger work yourself, you can build a pretty good little custom rifle for $1500.

You can get a Stiller 700 clone for around $950, a Brux barrel for $300, plus a $150 to to have it chambered and fitted. Get a pretty good 1 lb. Timney trigger for $100 or a Jewel for $200, And a Richard's Microfit stock for $100-$200. That's a little over your budget, and may take a long time to put together, but you'll be better off and a lot happier in the end.

If you really wanted to stay within your budget, you could do all that to a Savage Model 12 BR Action which costs about $520 AND comes with a decent trigger so you would save another $100+ on not having to buy a trigger. Most custom actions, like Stiller, don't come with triggers.

I just built a rifle on the Savage Model 12 BR. The Savage Target Trigger is a bit lacking for 1K BR shooting, but will work. I'm personally replacing the trigger because it IS NOT SAFE at the advertised 6 oz. I can get it to about 8-10 oz. safely, but that's it. Overall, the Savage 12 BR is actually a very nice and sturdy action for the money.

 

[bozo699]

If I had a $1500 budget, I certainly wouldn't blow it on a factory gun........

+1
Wayne.

Yep. If you do stock and trigger work yourself, you can build a pretty good little custom rifle for $1500.

You can get a Stiller 700 clone for around $950, a Brux barrel for $300, plus a $150 to to have it chambered and fitted. Get a pretty good 1 lb. Timney trigger for $100 or a Jewel for $200, And a Richard's Microfit stock for $100-$200. That's a little over your budget, and may take a long time to put together, but you'll be better off and a lot happier in the end.

If you really wanted to stay within your budget, you could do all that to a Savage Model 12 BR Action which costs about $520 AND comes with a decent trigger so you would save another $100+ on not having to buy a trigger. Most custom actions, like Stiller, don't come with triggers.

I just built a rifle on the Savage Model 12 BR, although the trigger is a bit lacking for 1K BR shooting (I'm replacing it). It is actually a very nice and sturdy action for the money.

Brandon,
I agree with everything you said except the accutrigger is not a very good trigger at all!! They seem okay and feel pretty good when you compare them with other factory triggers with a 7# pull but in competition when your running hard and you have it turned down as low as it will go and you close the bolt to fast the sear will drop and it won't go off,...that throws you off and is frustrating and will cost you in score and group, now for the guy's shooting f-class where speed is no issue then they would probably would be okay,..just saying though from experience, I started off with a 6.5*284 Savage #12 f-class rifle and the trigger SUCKS!!!
Wayne.

 

[BigDMT]

If I had a $1500 budget, I certainly wouldn't blow it on a factory gun........

+1
Wayne.

Yep. If you do stock and trigger work yourself, you can build a pretty good little custom rifle for $1500.

You can get a Stiller 700 clone for around $950, a Brux barrel for $300, plus a $150 to to have it chambered and fitted. Get a pretty good 1 lb. Timney trigger for $100 or a Jewel for $200, And a Richard's Microfit stock for $100-$200. That's a little over your budget, and may take a long time to put together, but you'll be better off and a lot happier in the end.

If you really wanted to stay within your budget, you could do all that to a Savage Model 12 BR Action which costs about $520 AND comes with a decent trigger so you would save another $100+ on not having to buy a trigger. Most custom actions, like Stiller, don't come with triggers.

I just built a rifle on the Savage Model 12 BR, although the trigger is a bit lacking for 1K BR shooting (I'm replacing it). It is actually a very nice and sturdy action for the money.

Brandon,
I agree with everything you said except the accutrigger is not a very good trigger at all!! They seem okay and feel pretty good when you compare them with other factory triggers with a 7# pull but in competition when your running hard and you have it turned down as low as it will go and you close the bolt to fast the sear will drop and it won't go off,...that throws you off and is frustrating and will cost you in score and group, now for the guy's shooting f-class where speed is no issue then they would probably would be okay,..just saying though from experience, I started off with a 6.5*284 Savage #12 f-class rifle and the trigger SUCKS!!!
Wayne.

You must have posted while I was editing I don't like the Accutrigger either. That's why I edited to say in my post that they are NOT SAFE at the advertised 6 oz. The target trigger isn't horrible, I've felt a lot worse, but it is definitely lacking for 1K BR shooting. And none of the Savage trigger designs are that safe IMO. Except maybe the designs from SSS. SSS triggers are very nice and safe actually. I think I'm gonna have them put the Evolution trigger in my model 12.

 

[bozo699]

Brandon,
Let me know how you like the Evolution, I have thought of going that route myself, I have since converted that f-class rifle into a varmint rig but I would still like to upgrade the trigger. I actually think the accutrigger is pretty safe as the fake little extra trigger they have is there to release the sear and it works and if it's set to light that is what happens is the sear won't fall so the gun doesn't go off, or at least that has been my finding, I have never had a drop fire it just won't fire period.
Wayne.

 

[NateHaler]

You make a good point! I was thinking a build would cost $2500+ My plan is to use it out to 1400m, I go to the range almost every weekend. I would also like to use it to compete a few times a year in F-class. Which stock(s) would you recommend?

Use the search function. Such questions are asked/answered HUNDREDS of times on this and other forums, like Savage Shooters. As to shooting to 1,400m with a .260, good luck. : That's 1,531 yards. You'd be lucky to do that pushing a good 7mm bullet, with its way superior BC, to such distance, and even then it's iffy. Going to the range to shoot 100y or whatever distance is a different world than long range. And I'm thinking you're new to long range, otherwise you wouldn't be asking such questions... Walk before you run. 8)

 

[BigDMT]

Brandon,
Let me know how you like the Evolution, I have thought of going that route myself, I have since converted that f-class rifle into a varmint rig but I would still like to upgrade the trigger. I actually think the accutrigger is pretty safe as the fake little extra trigger they have is there to release the sear and it works and if it's set to light that is what happens is the sear won't fall so the gun doesn't go off, or at least that has been my finding, I have never had a drop fire it just won't fire period.
Wayne.

Yeah, I took the blade out of the accutrigger. Makes for a lot better feel on the pull, but much less safe.

I just looked into the Evo trigger a little more and actually read the details. They want $195 for the trigger, then I have to ship the gun to them, probably another $40-$50 with insurance, because they will only install it in house along with their OWN action blueprinting which is another $165.

I've already had the action timed, trued, polished raceways, etc.... So I really don't want to spend another $400+ just to get a trigger. That's ridiculous! I could get a nice custom action for the cost of the Savage and that trigger installation. So I think I'm gonna try to figure something else out...

 

[jonbearman]

Go to benchrest central ,there are a couple built rifles that might be an option.

 

[savagedasher]

You did say factory gun. Savage makes probably the best.Most stock gun class is won by them.
Good Shooting Larry

 

[bozo699]

You did say factory gun. Savage makes probably the best.Most stock gun class is won by them.
Good Shooting Larry

Only because no one has ever brought there Tikka to one of those matches! I own a closet full of Savages and for a factory gun they shoot real well and I own a few Tikka's and everyone of them will out shoot my Savages,..everything being equal straight out of the box. with my custom ammo or store bought that don't matter either way,...AND,....AND the Tikka has a good trigger from the box and you can't hardly even buy a good aftermarket one for the Savage. of course these are just my opinions.
Wayne.