Best F class feet?

[BradY]

So many designs out there, which ones are best? I usually shoot of softer grass mounds and usually use plumb bob/plummet weights on the bottom of my rest, but Im thinking F class feet might be a little more stable with the big wide footprint.

 

[Immike]

21st Century has the best ones I've seen. I have a couple different sets and they grip the dirt the best.

 

[R.Morehouse]

www.viperbenchrest.com 8)

 

[memilanuk]

Get a couple nuts with the appropriate thread and a big fender washer... use the nuts in a jam/lock config on the legs to hold the washer in place. I've got the big heavy/ expensive Sinclair feet as well, and I think the nuts/washer setup works about as well.

 

[Keith Glasscock]

I recently came across the same problem. Before going to Phoenix, I bought some 3" diameter short aluminum rod (1/2" long) from McMaster Carr. I center drilled those with a drillpress and sandwiched them between a plain nut and a spike nut (eHarley.com) of the correct thread. I can post pictures later if needed.

The spike nuts are 1 5/8" long and drive into the ground easily but stay solid even in the sandy stuff at Phoenix.

 

[dannyjbiggs]

Might consider getting some of the massive solid brass Viper feet (for your SEB), see Viper website. They add enough weight to your rest to give you a good physical workout getting the rest to the firing line...especially during the Palma match course. Where you drop it, it will definitely stay. If you are a little physically run down, might consider carrying around a small fork lift (like the brick trucks) to get the rest out of the back of the vehicle up to the firing point. For night driving, with rest in the back, expect to get a lot of on-coming high beam flashes...because you will be driving on constant high beam!

Dan

 

[Killshot]

www.viperbenchrest.com 8)

This. Bob Pastor makes great feet. You can make your own "legs" with a two-foot piece of threaded rod; cut it into three 8" lengths and hit the hardware store for the knobs to go on top, apply some Red Loctite and the knobs stay on tight.
I spin the feet off and put the pointed Farley legs back on for bench use, back to the big ones for F-class matches.
They really aren't heavy, they're made from aluminum.

 

[Shiraz]

So many designs out there, which ones are best? I usually shoot of softer grass mounds and usually use plumb bob/plummet weights on the bottom of my rest, but Im thinking F class feet might be a little more stable with the big wide footprint.

To answer your question simply about the "best", I would say without hesitation Bob Pastor's (Viper) feet. I use them myself.

For those that want a more economical solution, Bald Eagle has them as well:

http://www.bullets.com/products/Set-of-3-F-Class-Feet-Steel-for-BE1004-and-BE1005/BE1007

http://www.bullets.com/products/Set-of-3-Long-Screws-for-F-Class-for-BE1004-and-BE1005/BE1008

http://www.bullets.com/products/Set-of-3-F-Class-Feet-Stainless-for-BE1004-and-BE1005/BE1007SS (stainless version)

 

[Steve Blair]

My Farley rest uses 1.5" spikes which are made from McMaster-Carr components. They are: [br]
3/8-16, grade 8, all-thread rod p/n 90322A100, 1 ea.
304 stainless steel disks Ø3" X 1/2" p/n 9208K51, 3 ea.
Cast iron knob p/n 3948T21, 3 ea.
3/8-16 hex nuts, 6 ea. [br]
Cut the threaded rod into 8" sections. Turn the threads from 1.5" at one end and make a blunt point. Face the disks on each side, drill the center and tap 3/8-16. Drill 1/4" hole on the disk edge for tightening. Assemble them as you see in the picture. To use, pound the spikes into the ground with a soft-faced mallet by beating on the knob until the disks are solidly grounded. The knobs are cast iron, it won't hurt them. Use a scope level on your rifle and level to that instead of the rest. That should end your rest stability problem. If your rest legs are not 3/8-16, adjust parts accordingly.

 

[Ringostar]

I made feet just like Steve did. However all stainless, disks, threaded rod, knobs and lock nuts. Then the original tightening wheels that came with my short Farley legs. It added a lot of weight to the rest. I just ran the rod through enough, to fit the lock nut. It holds good on a grass firing points, however it would move with heavy shoulder pressure at Ben Avery. I think that I'm going to extend the rod deeper, and grind a point on them.