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Best concentricity I've seen

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted old_dood
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Deleted old_dood

with my 6BR Redding bushing FL sizer and Competition seater I usually got 1.5 to 2 thousanths. I first switched seater to a Wilson chamber type (with micrometer) which gave me a slight reduction. Then I went with a Whidden non-bushing FL sizer using a .242 expander. I just finished loading 25 90g Berger bt in multiple fired Lapua brass sized with the new die for the first time and all looked like they measured .001" or less. Very happy with the Whidden die. May get the expander ball kit down the road but not sure as I really only need maybe one other one, a .241 I suspect. Seating the first 25 bullets seemed very consistant as far as seating force (although I don't have the measurement set up) and not seemingly excessive.
 
with my 6BR Redding bushing FL sizer and Competition seater I usually got 1.5 to 2 thousanths. I first switched seater to a Wilson chamber type (with micrometer) which gave me a slight reduction. Then I went with a Whidden non-bushing FL sizer using a .242 expander. I just finished loading 25 90g Berger bt in multiple fired Lapua brass sized with the new die for the first time and all looked like they measured .001" or less. Very happy with the Whidden die. May get the expander ball kit down the road but not sure as I really only need maybe one other one, a .241 I suspect. Seating the first 25 bullets seemed very consistant as far as seating force (although I don't have the measurement set up) and not seemingly excessive.
Contrary to popular belief, You CAN teach old doods new tricks. :) WTG
 
with my 6BR Redding bushing FL sizer and Competition seater I usually got 1.5 to 2 thousanths. I first switched seater to a Wilson chamber type (with micrometer) which gave me a slight reduction. Then I went with a Whidden non-bushing FL sizer using a .242 expander. I just finished loading 25 90g Berger bt in multiple fired Lapua brass sized with the new die for the first time and all looked like they measured .001" or less. Very happy with the Whidden die. May get the expander ball kit down the road but not sure as I really only need maybe one other one, a .241 I suspect. Seating the first 25 bullets seemed very consistant as far as seating force (although I don't have the measurement set up) and not seemingly excessive.

Same die i am using for my 6mm br. I have the kit. Am using the .243 expander ball. They all look good on my 21st century concentricity gauge. Most less than .001 but there are some misbehavior in there. Just neck turned 50.cases. my hope is after this next firing the necks will be even straighter.

For me the quest for the perfect round is the fun of it. Shooting them is suspenseful. What will the target tell me.
 
Same die i am using for my 6mm br. I have the kit. Am using the .243 expander ball. They all look good on my 21st century concentricity gauge. Most less than .001 but there are some misbehavior in there. Just neck turned 50.cases. my hope is after this next firing the necks will be even straighter.

For me the quest for the perfect round is the fun of it. Shooting them is suspenseful. What will the target tell me.
what I always thought interesting was the general negative feeling of some on this forum about expander buttons on the decapping assy. As long as the inside neck is lubed, I really don't see a problem with this die.
 
I kind of like expander balls if the chamber, die and neck thickness are set up so the expander only sizes the neck a little.
If it is expanding the neck only .001 there is no way it can pull the neck off center more than .0005 (or half the amount of expansion). Many FL dies size the neck .006 to .007 too small requiring the expander to open the neck a lot. This can lead to run out if the top of the button has little lead in taper.

what I always thought interesting was the general negative feeling of some on this forum about expander buttons on the decapping assy. As long as the inside neck is lubed, I really don't see a problem with this die.
 
I also use the Whidden FL 6mm Creedmoor die and have very good results with concentricity. I however, took the expander ball off and use a 21st Century expanding mandrel in a second stage and have near zero runout consistently. Without expanding, the neck is sized down .005" with the Whidden die and .015" thick necks on Lapua brass. I am thinking about turning the necks down to .014" creating less sizing and a little more clearance in my .275 neck chamber.
 
with my 6BR Redding bushing FL sizer and Competition seater I usually got 1.5 to 2 thousanths. I first switched seater to a Wilson chamber type (with micrometer) which gave me a slight reduction. Then I went with a Whidden non-bushing FL sizer using a .242 expander. I just finished loading 25 90g Berger bt in multiple fired Lapua brass sized with the new die for the first time and all looked like they measured .001" or less.
How are you measuring concentricity?
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I also use the Whidden FL 6mm Creedmoor die and have very good results with concentricity. I however, took the expander ball off and use a 21st Century expanding mandrel in a second stage and have near zero runout consistently. Without expanding, the neck is sized down .005" with the Whidden die and .015" thick necks on Lapua brass. I am thinking about turning the necks down to .014" creating less sizing and a little more clearance in my .275 neck chamber.
with unturned Lapua brass I had been using the Redding Type S die with a .265 bushing and their carbide expander button. The Whidden die spec is .263 in the neck area. The resistance on the press up stroke is a little more than before. I always dip the necks in dry lube before sizing. When winter comes around I may turn .001" or less off the necks.
 
I have the Hornady tool. Yes, I know....but my readings with it were verified by a forum member I see nearly every week who has the tool posted above.
Far be it from me to cast aspersions, I've never tried any such tool. I appreciate your endorsement.
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So, if I'm understand this correctly, when using the Whidden non-bushing FL sizer, you turn the neck to reduce neck tension? The reason I ask is because, I too, get too much run out with the Redding bushing type die and have resorted to full length resize without a bushing, followed by the Lee collet die.

Thanks in advance
 
So, if I'm understand this correctly, when using the Whidden non-bushing FL sizer, you turn the neck to reduce neck tension? The reason I ask is because, I too, get too much run out with the Redding bushing type die and have resorted to full length resize without a bushing, followed by the Lee collet die.

Thanks in advance
I think turning the necks could enable a reduction of neck tension or you could use different diameter expanders or mandrel. Whidden sells a expander button kit that includes 5 different diameters for that purpose.
 
I think turning the necks could enable a reduction of neck tension or you could use different diameter expanders or mandrel. Whidden sells a expander button kit that includes 5 different diameters for that purpose.

I am using the .243 expander ball in my 6Br die. It is working pretty good for.me.
 
So, if I'm understand this correctly, when using the Whidden non-bushing FL sizer, you turn the neck to reduce neck tension? The reason I ask is because, I too, get too much run out with the Redding bushing type die and have resorted to full length resize without a bushing, followed by the Lee collet die.

Thanks in advance

I have heard of others using the Lee Collet Die to neck size and reduce run out, how much run out are you getting using the Lee Collet Die for neck sizing?
 
Generally under 0.002. The main reason why I posted my question, was because when I use the Redding type "S" die with a bushing, the runout is not acceptable. I would like to resize my brass in just one step, but if I have to do it by bumping the shoulder followed by the LCD, that's OK, because I don't process that much brass at any one time.
 
Next time you go to the range take your worst and best cases and do some group testing.

I have done it. Concentricity less than .001 and cases in the .002 to .003 range. Everything else the same. Just final concentricity sorting. Less than .001 5 shot groups in the 1's. The culls in the 2's and 3's. Most would never notice the difference.
 
I have done it. Concentricity less than .001 and cases in the .002 to .003 range. Everything else the same. Just final concentricity sorting. Less than .001 5 shot groups in the 1's. The culls in the 2's and 3's. Most would never notice the difference.
What round? Bullet? Freebore? Jumping or jamming? Thanks
 

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