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Best case mouth lube for accuracy?

This is what I've been using the last couple of years.....Dip and
twist.
I wipe the outside of the neck after dry lubing them, don't like spreading the sooty stuff all over. It also gives me an indication of the level of graphite being deposited. It adds less than 10 minutes per 100 and gives me a smooth, consistent seating feel. Without it the seating feels inconsistent and worrisome if I depend only on the carbon residue in the fired brass. It also assists with the final task of mandrel-ing the cases before charging them and seating the precious 2A freedom teeth.
 
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The carbon residue is the best lube.
A quick nylon brush-through, sizing, and necks are ready for seating.
This is my thought and what I did for a long time. Then I decided to amp anneal at every firing, and my feeling is that the red oxide the annealing process leaves on the inside of the neck is somehow an abrasive and not a ‘natural’ lube anymore, so now looking into dry neck lube
 
This is my thought and what I did for a long time. Then I decided to amp anneal at every firing, and my feeling is that the red oxide the annealing process leaves on the inside of the neck is somehow an abrasive and not a ‘natural’ lube anymore, so now looking into dry neck lube
First time I have ever heard of red oxide being present inside a case. Could you please post a picture?
 
Been using this for many years

 
Been using this for many years

Cap’n they are “Out of Stock”...
Foster has the same system and though it‘s called “Case Graphiter” it uses the same white powder. Mine says Bonanza on the top of the lid... Just like it says on my Co-Ax.... Foster bought out Bonanza years ago but the product line still exists, just says FOSTER on it... Lyman is a new-comer to the game here.
Rather than dipping the case neck into the powder and putting it on the outside of the neck as well, the Foster/Bonanza has the powder on the brushes {Just shake the close case to replenish powder on brushes} that way you can use Die Wax or other lubricant on the exterior and size and not contaminate the die with the powder.
Dry powder on the outside of the case is a poor lubricant and can lead to the dreaded “Stuck Case”.
Since I size first with no decapping pin and ball, I then use a mandrel die to get the correct neck ID, about .0015” neck tension. Has made a real difference in smooth seating and consistent SD’s. Neck Tension counts for a lot in long range F Open and bench rest but also for your hunting rounds if you are shooting more than 150yds. Magazine loaded ammo can go for a bit more neck tension just to make sure that recoil does not seat the bullets down into the case.
 
Has anyone ever compared the behavior of the carbon deposit left behind in the neck before and after annealing? Mine sure looks different after annealing. Seems to me that carbon would remain carbon after heating through annealing. IE is "carbon" the correct term for the residue inside the neck?

@Bryan Z.

Sounds like something up your alley... ;)
 
First time I have ever heard of red oxide being present inside a case. Could you please post a picture?
I know it’s not the best picture but the red portion is the neck inside after annealing and the black is the shoulder
 

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Cap’n they are “Out of Stock”...
Foster has the same system and though it‘s called “Case Graphiter” it uses the same white powder. Mine says Bonanza on the top of the lid... Just like it says on my Co-Ax.... Foster bought out Bonanza years ago but the product line still exists, just says FOSTER on it... Lyman is a new-comer to the game here.
Rather than dipping the case neck into the powder and putting it on the outside of the neck as well, the Foster/Bonanza has the powder on the brushes {Just shake the close case to replenish powder on brushes} that way you can use Die Wax or other lubricant on the exterior and size and not contaminate the die with the powder.
Dry powder on the outside of the case is a poor lubricant and can lead to the dreaded “Stuck Case”.
Since I size first with no decapping pin and ball, I then use a mandrel die to get the correct neck ID, about .0015” neck tension. Has made a real difference in smooth seating and consistent SD’s. Neck Tension counts for a lot in long range F Open and bench rest but also for your hunting rounds if you are shooting more than 150yds. Magazine loaded ammo can go for a bit more neck tension just to make sure that recoil does not seat the bullets down into the case.
Must be a new company. I know that Bonanza was bought by another company but that company was Forster.
 
This is my thought and what I did for a long time. Then I decided to amp anneal at every firing, and my feeling is that the red oxide the annealing process leaves on the inside of the neck is somehow an abrasive and not a ‘natural’ lube anymore, so now looking into dry neck lube
flame annealing?
 
I know it’s not the best picture but the red portion is the neck inside after annealing and the black is the shoulder
Many equate red oxide with rust and that does not appear to be present in the photo. The case neck inner diameter appearance did not change when I switched from flame to induction (AMP) annealing. Regrets that I can not offer any explanations for your observation!
 
Inside neck lubing reduces seating friction from whatever it is.
This, providing for easier seating to desired CBTO.
When you're doing everything right, the fired carbon layer provides this -consistently.

When you're producing excess interference, over cleaning, or burning the zinc out of your brass, then you reach for some other lube. A band-aid.
 

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