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Best Bullet for Moose?

I have seen neck shoots fail, they only work if you hit the back bone. I had a bull moose run 100yds, very fast after a heart shot. The 225gr .338 was recovered on the off side leg/ shoulder joint 191grs. Use heavy bullets for heavy game. I would use the .375 unless you are shy of it because of recoil, then down load so it does not bite so bad. Muzzle breaks really work too. I put a break on my .338 mag because of the range time, it was beating me up. I've shot a .338-06 for years but the 338 mag kicks a lot more, 10gr powder and 150 ft/sec in a 1/2 lb lighter gun was too much so a break did the trick.
 
For starters, thanks to everyone who took the time and responded. After much thought, I'm going to listen to the majority of responders and start getting my 375 H&H ready. Unfortunately, my rifle, a Colt Sauer suffers from a common ailment that many of the Colts have; there is a noticeable crack along the pistol grip area. On a positive note, I've used the 300 grain bear claw bullets for elk in the past and I'll take the time to reload a couple of boxes in the next couple of weeks.

Fortunately I began making stocks about a year ago. I've got a wonderful piece of tiger maple I cut and kiln dried last fall and this morning I cut the rough dimensions and then started shaping the fore end. In two to three weeks I will hopefully be ready to start testing new loads.

If the hunting Gods are good, by the end of October, I will post pictures of the finished product along with a few of my first moose!
 
Most of the Native's up here use 223 and 243. There have been lots of kids who kill there first moose with 243, 260, 7-08. Light recoiling rifles are easier to manage, and less likely to give shooters the famous Flinch. Shot placement is by far THE most important factor. 6.5x55 has been a darling moose round in Europe, and for good reason, light recoil and high SD(penetration). I like my 358, makes them yahoos at the range scratch there heads when they ask what I am shooting 8)
 
onelastshot said:
After much thought, I'm going to listen to the majority of responders and start getting my 375 H&H ready. I've used the 300 grain bear claw bullets for elk in the past and I'll take the time to reload a couple of boxes in the next couple of weeks.

If the hunting Gods are good, by the end of October, I will post pictures of the finished product along with a few of my first moose!

The 375 is the smart play, good on you. The Trophy Bonded Bear Claw is well-proven, taking over 1000's of very big animals and it flat out never fails (something that cannot be said about the glorified, long-nosed Sierra match hollow points). That 300gr TBBC will get right to where a large bull lives without question, from any angle and it will do it every time.
 
Glenninjuneau said:
Most of the Native's up here use 223 and 243. There have been lots of kids who kill there first moose with 243, 260, 7-08. Light recoiling rifles are easier to manage, and less likely to give shooters the famous Flinch. Shot placement is by far THE most important factor. 6.5x55 has been a darling moose round in Europe, and for good reason, light recoil and high SD(penetration). I like my 358, makes them yahoos at the range scratch there heads when they ask what I am shooting 8)

I've seen white tails taken with a 22LR (the poachers best friend) but that doesn't mean I'd gear up with one for a hunt. I agree with your point that shot placement counts, but on a hunt that's not in your neck of the woods, where it may be yrs before you get another chance, if ever, to hunt a large game animal, I'd take a rifle that allowed me to make a kill with a less than ideal shot. Sure, inside of 150 yards broadside you can place one low behind the shoulder and a smaller bullet will do the job. Later afternoon on the last day of your hunt presented with a quartering shot in brush where you need to shoot through the chest or put one in at the last rib or pass on your one shooting opportunity and fly home with nothing. I want something that will get the job done.
 
XTR you are absolutely correct, if I am going to spend the kind of money it takes for a guided hunt I want to have more than enough gun to anchor my prize. As mentioned earlier on this thread, overkill is under rated.
 
Glenninjuneau said:
Donovan, yes I have a strong opinion! I'm from Texas! ::) I also have strong rules when buddies from down south come up for a hunt.
1. You get the first shot, after that lead will fly!
2. Don't bring a rifle that I feel is marginal.
3. Don't bring ammo I feel is marginal.
4. Shoot behind the shoulder.
5. If you show up with equipment I feel is marginal you will hunt alone.
I take my life and those who I hunt with very, very seriously. I feel as the resident Alaskan it is my responsibility to insure there safety and mine also. I have had black bears come up behind me while elbow deep skinning and quartering deer and give the "wolf, groan". Trust me, it was a long day, and a very uncomfortable pack out. 4 miles from the truck and 2000 feet, by myself. So yes I have a strong opinion. I will also say, Howa 1500's have a extremely strong bolt stop! How I did not rip the bolt out of that rifle when loading a round I will never know, I am no weakling!

You must hunt alone alot. ;)

I can help you with that while your up there.
1st Don't admit your a Texan
2nd Keep your strong opinions to yourself
3rd Don't call it down south it's the lower 48
4th Don't bring your buddies up from the lower 48 'cuz your the liability! Keep yourself and them safe and tell them not to come till you figure things out.
 
Glenninjuneau said:
The only way I do bear is sausage, I have tried lots of stuff with bear and sausage is the way to go. As to recipes for heart, salt and pepper, done, cook to medium rare and enjoy. As to your meat, it might be a good idea to send to processor and have them do everything including shiping. Most in moose country make great sausage, with there own recipes. Processing moose is one hell of a job, and I do it my self. The seasonings I get from a small grocery store here in town that makes sausage, I tell em I want to make 50# if this and that, they measure out the mixins and sell it to me. I also cut all bear 50% with pork shoulder when I do sausage, moose 30%. Bear fat is gross, I do here it is good for baking. I use it to lube patches for my muzzle loader, slick stuff. If you are planning on taking the 375, please practice with it and make sure you are not scared of it. Wear a sissy pad if necessary and don't shoot more than a hand full during a session. Flinches are extremely hard to get rid of, trust me, it took me a lot of shooting with a 223 to get over the one I had from my 300.

Thanks for the info on the sausage. We keep some farm animals and have a few too many pigs. I have enough pork shoulders in the freezer to make several hundred pounds of sausage. Fortunately we converted a garage into a butcher shop complete with an extra large walk in cooler. I hope to get the moose home in quarters, let it hang for a week or so and then process it. On of the best things I ever purchased was a commercial grade food vacuum sealer, not one of those cheap retail versions. The plastic is several times thicker and the vacuum seal removes ALL the air. No air no freezer burn. You can keep cuts of meat over a year and not worry.

As far as flinches, the only rifle I own that I don't like to shoot is an old German Weatherby Mark 5 in 300 mag. Love the rifle but I find the recoil very sharp, possibly from the cartridges steep shoulder. The 375 H&H I've used numerous times in the past without a problem. I may just be in my head but the 375 feels more like a hard push as opposed to the 300's sharp kick.

I mentioned earlier I'm in the process of making a new stock(Colt Sauers are notorious for cracking at the grip) and I'm using tiger maple. A good hardwood with some weight to it. I laminate anywhere from 2-5 boards together, use a special adhesive and clap it all down with a few thousand pounds of pressure. The result (after many evenings in the shop) is a wood stock twice as strong as regular wood and no glue lines. The new stock should help with the recoil issue.

Thanks again for sharing your thoughts.
 
Chucknbach:

F.Y.I., maybe you should keep your strong opinions to yourself. ;) This isn't the first post you've written here on this forum trying to irritate or offend people.
 
300 mags have sharp bite compared to the big slower moving bullets. I think of the recoil as push/time, the longer recoil time is better for me.
 
I wouldn't consider anything smaller than a .30-06 with a 180gr premium bullet.
When I hunt Moose, I carry a .338 bore that sends a 250gr Grand Slam or Barnes at 2700fps.

I would not jack around with a small bore. If you shoot the .375 well; take that.
 
I agree with many here. From my own experience, that Nosler Partitions have never let me down. Moose, red stag, caribou, all taken from the same box of bullets. I swear by them for big game of this type.
 
Best bullet for me is Nosler Part. or Barnes TSX in a 150 gr. If you are not happy with that, go to the .338 cal. with a 250. Skip the .30cal.
I have had better luck with the .338 than anything else. Currently use a Ultra but the .338 win with 250-300 gr bullets is superb.
 
Woodleigh Weld Cores, Swift A Frames, or TBBC's in the upper weight range for the caliber you end up useing. All 3 will give outstanding PREDICTABLE performance .Pick the 1 that shoots best in your rifle .
 
Just killed a bull moose with the 7mm Rem Mag shooting the Berger 168 VLD hunting bullet. Found the bullet jacket under the hide on the off side. Shot was about 200yds broadside, the hit was the classic "just behind the front leg".
 
For what it's worth.. I killed a rather large Moose in BC using my trusty 270 Win in a SAKO.. Loaded a 160 Gr Barnes.. One shot and 175 yds in the boiler room was all it took.. I also killed 2 black bears on this trip with the same load..
 
I have never hunted moose but this story was told to me by a old hunter some 20 years ago..he had a 300 H&H mag in canada and he only had three shells. so he found a big bull moose in a bog he snuck to around 75 yards away. being a eastern whitetail hunter he got a rest and centered the crosshair on it's neck and pulled the trigger,the moose just continued eating., he said: , i cant believe i missed. so he shot again and again, now out of shell's. he said he could see blood running down the hide on the moose but it just keep eating.. he was quite away from his camp. he worked his way out to a logging road and as his good fortune would have it a car was comming so he flaged it down. a local hunter. so he explaned to the guy what he had done and ask for his help or if he had any 300 H&H shell's or if he could rent his gun. so the hunter said yea let's go and he grabed his gun and when he (the old hunter) found out the local hunter had a .270 win in his hands, he said he thought oh no what are we going to do with that,I just put three 180 gr 300 mag slug's in this monster's neck and it never phased it. when they made it back to the moose the local hunter handed him the .270, now somewhat unsure he asked just shoot him in the shoulder. the local hunter said no shoot him behind the shoulder..so he did and droped the moose in it's track's.. so as the old hunter said (dynamite mcnealy) it's not that the .270 win is a better moose cartridge than the .300 but never shoot a bull moose in the neck or shoulder.. To sit around the campfire and have dynamite tell the story, it's allmost like you were there and the moose hangs on his wall..I havent been over to see old dynamite for years,hell he may have passed on. as i never knew him real well.

the .270 150VLD will do the job just fine.
 
Back from Ontario and unfortunately I don't have any pictures to share and my freezer is still empty. The long and short of it is I didn't see a single bull in 8 days of hunting. Sometimes, even the best of plans don't work out. The manner of hunting they use is to scout the lake shore and rivers for fresh track and set up a stand and hunt first thing in the morning and evening when they come out to feed and drink. The bush, as they call it, is impossible to hunt.

My hunting partner unfortunately learned a very bitter lesson and that is there is no substitution for practice. With 3 days left in the hunt a guide from across the lake told us he'd seen a monster of a bull (60 plus inch rack) the night before but his hunter only had a cow tag. The following morning I took one side of the peninsula and my partner the other. As luck would have it the big guy decided to take the southern route the following morning right towards my partner.

He shot the bull in the chest with a 300 Weatherby at 150 yards facing him dead on, and his second shot was behind the shoulder with the bull quartering towards him. The only conclusion we could think of was that the first shot hit low and went through the brisket and the second was too far back and missed the lungs/heart.

My partner told me that he's never seen so much blood from an animal that simply refused to die. Over two days he tracked the animal almost 5 miles and had to stop on the second day when the blood trail disappeared into a massive swamp. The blood trail was constant over the entire trail.

I've never seen a fellow hunter as dejected as he was when he came back in the following evening. He just kept on repeating, "I had the chance of a lifetime and blew it".

He now regrets not taking the time to practice before the trip. He shot the rifle once, the day before we left, just to make sure the scope was on.
 
Moose is my game!

To avoid meat damage the Nosler Accubond or some form of bonded bullet Win Power Max Plus
Would be excellent. Do not expect moose to stright down after hit. (unless neck/spine shot)


Nosler Partition is also excellent as well as the Speer Grand Slam.

Bullet placement is more important. The 180gr Speer Hot Cor or Mag Tip has taken alot of moose for me over the years in my 300 WBY.
 

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