Benchrest Stock build

[joshb]

I made a pattern for a Benchrest stock. For those that are interested, I'll copy the pattern and send it to any one that wants one. Like the other stockmaking thread, I'll describe the process and post pics. This will be my first one so I may dither a bit on the design, as can you. The barrel /action channel and trigger cut are the only "restrictions" on the design. I'll use the same jigs and tools that I used in the other build. I'm changing the procedure a little for accuracy reasons. This one is for a Stiller single shot action with an exposed trigger guard.

 

[Hal]

I enjoy your write ups and step by step pictures..
Thanks for sharing.

Hal

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Lookin good but watch the weight!!

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I would give yourself a little more meat in the wrist area. Probably move the grip foreward or just give it a larger radius. Not for strength but because once you start contouring it I think you will feel it looks and feels small. I have made that mistake a couple times. I was pleased with this one.

 

[TerryH]

Dang it Josh. Cut it out. Here you go again making we want to try it.

 

[joshb]

Alex, that's beautiful. It gives me something to aim for.
Dusty, you're right. I had a conversation with Bob Green, at his shop. He gave me some pointers and an idea on how to do a stock that's hollowed out. I'll make this one out of walnut ( instead of one of those heavier exotics) and see how much it weighs. Then, I'll do an "advanced thread" on my attempt at Bob's idea.
An esteemed member sent me a pm suggesting I check the "rules" governing this type of stock, just to be safe, so I looked them up. The NBRSA has a nice little diagram to follow. Somebody let me know if I have the wrong one. If you want to compete, make sure it complies.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Are you talking long range or short range? The looks of that stock tell me long range. All yo uneed to worry about there is keep the side of the forend no taller than 1/2". If its sr then you will need 6 degrees of drop in the butt. Keep everything parallel if its for LR.

 

[joshb]

Dang it Josh. Cut it out. Here you go again making we want to try it.

Well, It's fun! What's holding you back?

 

[joshb]

Are you talking long range or short range? The looks of that stock tell me long range. All yo uneed to worry about there is keep the side of the forend no taller than 1/2". If its sr then you will need 6 degrees of drop in the butt. Keep everything parallel if its for LR.

I was going for shortrange so 6 degrees it is. Right now, my blank is uncut. Thanks for the tips.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Ok, there are certainly better people to help you with short range stuff. They are not easy to make weight with, Id shoot for about 1.5lbs max on the stock.

 

[TerryH]

Well, It's fun! What's holding you back?

Stuck in the middle of another project at the moment but i'm going to have to do it. Looking forward to the thread.

 

[joshb]

I noticed! Nice work! When you get finished with your reloading bench, then. For me, it was this Or bird houses.
Thanks, Alex. I don't compete. This first attempt is for my 30 br. I'll use the weight of this one to gauge how much I have to hollow out the next one.

 

[joshb]

Moving forward with the much appreciated information and advice.
I pulled a hunk of walnut from the stack and made a blank. This one is 1 7/8" x 6" x 36". I changed the process a little. I cut the barrel channel 3/4 in deep x 1 1/4" wide. I marked my action screw centers, measured for my trigger cut and recoil lug and marked my stock. Then I made those cuts, using my long guides and stops. Since I'm using a single shot action with a Jewell BR trigger, this went quickly. ( so quick, I kept moving and forgot to take a picture. I'll use a old one.) I opened up my channel for the action to 1 3/8"
and took careful measurements of the final depth. It looked like this without the pillar holes and mag well cut.



Then, I put my action screws in my action and took careful measurements for the length of the pillars. The rear pillar is covered by the trigger guard. The front lug is usually covered by a steel escutcheon. I couldn't find any so I improvised. I chamfered the inside of the pillar so that the head of the screw sits just below flush. The bottom of the pillar will be flush with the bottom of the stock.


Using my channel depth and pillar measurements, I marked the side of my blank on my screw center lines. I added an eighth of an inch for sanding room and drew my cut line. Off to the bandsaw and cut the forearm profile.
With the profile cut, I'm going to drill my pillar holes from the bottom of the stock. My pillar hole is 9/16" and my trigger guard is 5/8" wide. Not much wiggle room, so I'm starting my holes where it shows. If my holes aren't perfectly true, I can "adjust" them where it doesn't show. Under the action. Boy, I miss that big magwell!


Next move was to wax up my action and bed it.

 

[joshb]

I used Alex's suggestions and the NBRSA drawing to lay out my butt profile. The tape is on the 6 degree line. Hmmmmm............"

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Make sure you read the IBS or NBRSA rules on that matter, not that I expect you will ever get checked. They read kind of confusing and I dont want you to take me for my word on that angle. That looks a little steeper than I am used to.

 

[6MMsteve]

View attachment 1027939

I used Alex's suggestions and the NBRSA drawing to lay out my butt profile. The tape is on the 6 degree line. Hmmmmm............"
View attachment 1027940

did you cut your channel and action inlet with a Plunge router or mill drill

 

[joshb]

Alex: I layed it out per the drawing. That's 6 degrees. I'm researching it now. It will stay as is until more info is secured. Thanks.
Steve: I use routers, a drill press, band saw, table saw, jointer and sanders. Read the start of the other thread. It's all shown there.

 

[joshb]

It's all good. I have another one in the works. Look past the drill press.

 

[joshb]

Pulled out the action, cleaned up the trigger cut and inletted the trigger guard. Two 5/8 holes (the width of my guard) were drilled for the ends on centers after tracing the guard on the stock. I used my jigs and guides to route to depth as close to the grip as possible then used chisels to finish. The rear of the guard sits on the pillar. Take your time with this to get it tight. 32s matter.

 

[joshb]

I decided to make this one a flat bottomed " long range" stock. I put in a little more time trying to form it up. I took a stab at the grip area. Since this is my first one of this design, I learned a little about what to do on the next one. This one will function alright but it won't be a head turner. When I get things ironed out, I'll do a new proper build thread. One thing I learned on this build is how difficult it is to carve both sides of the grip area to match.