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bedding scope rings

Well folks can keep on believing what other folks be telling them about stuff that them folks heard from some other folks and so on.....but back in the real world where some of us type folks know better than to be naive about just cause something comes off a CNC machine in Ohio is the same as a cnc machine in Japan or Wyoming or where ever, none,none,none of them are the same. Since a lot of you folks won’t believe me, which is fine with me, go spend a little time measuring scope tubes from different manufacturers, even different model lines from the same manufacturer, they ain’t all the same. And before you go to measuring, make sure to use a micrometer for Christ sake. Now let’s talk about all these wonderful cnc produced rings from earlier. Not one single manufacturer matches another in that case either and it’s not even their fault, it’s yours. As soon as YOU start screwing with scope rings all the great strides in manufacturing is just sucked out the window, because they cannot control what YOU do to the screws. Let alone like mentioned earlier, most all of them that has holes in them for bases can’t even always get them straight. So this rant leads me to always lapping the absolute most material I possibly can out of the rings and replacing it with epoxy, which for the OP mine usually runs about .006” thick, that’s doing before and after thickness measurements of the rings with a micrometer. And as for it fitting someone’s budget, I just ask them if they ever want to resale that scope and draw top dollar for it, then it absolutely cannot have ring marks. Properly bedded scope rings will not leave marks and is easy insurance to maintain a high resell value.

Rant over.
Todd, Great answer now to go back alittle there is nothing new here its been done since the mid 80's that I know of. To go back to post #3 there are a few things missing in the link. first you need to set eye relief and have scope level. scopes are not exactly round and it must be where you want it. second to really get it right set up rifle put tape in front of ring for correct placement, sight in rifle at yardage used and level using a 2' level draw a line on target to line cross hairs. next go home and use a collemitor in barrel get grid markings. then center scope travel, a box with vee's cut in it and spinning scope until cross hairs or dots do not wiggle do not just count clicks erector tube will not be centred to outside tube. set up rifle level release agent on scope ,epoxy in rings. place scope in rings and lightly start screws with cap. line up scope level and tape for eye relief, push spin scope while looking for grid marks put adhesive tape on scope to hold in place checking to make sure it didn't move. when dry remove caps trim excess off . now scope is level to rifle, cross hairs are square and level and most important scope is in centre of travel where it should be....
 
Buy a set of Burris Signature rings and all this "precision scope bedding" is completely unnecessary. You get stress-free, no-mar, no-slip scope mounting and will also save money.

RWO


The easy way is always tuff enough. Signature rings are all I use. On the XTR rings you can get up to 40 moa of offset with inserts. I can just about imagine what my blood pressure would do if I put ring marks on a high dollar scope.
 
Can you explain what magic ARC has preformed to make up for out of round scopes or scope tubes that are not aligned front to rear or the erector tube not being centered or the varying dia's of the the mfg. process or the receiver o.d not being straight or round...
 
Use quality rings and no need or room for bedding.

You’re completely missing the point. There has been feedback on the thread alone from current and past competitive shooters and the greatest bullet swaging die maker in the country try to steer people the right way to do it and the reasons for needing to do this. If all you desire is to shoot at a buck a few times a year with ol’ pappy’s 270 then yes, don’t bother doing it. This is something that we do to try to get to the next level of accuracy in a very competitive sport. Scopes, rings and mounts don’t buy you wins, they fail and cost you the whole trip to the match. This is just one of the things that makes it worth doing, bedded scopes with proper torque on all the screws will not slide, move, twist or get bumped out of place. I guess this is just too simple for people to think it works? As Mr George said earlier, this ain’t nothing new.
 
There was a dogma amongst silhouette rimfire shooters here, to shim the scopes in the rings to the mid range, say 50 yds and zero windage. Never felt the need myself, but I can understand the issue, with, say ring screws out of line with the barrel and centering the reticle.
 
Can you explain what magic ARC has preformed to make up for out of round scopes or scope tubes that are not aligned front to rear or the erector tube not being centered or the varying dia's of the the mfg. process or the receiver o.d not being straight or round...

Nothing, as everything had a manufacturing tolerance. :D:eek:

Paul
 
Willy bed away if it makes you feel better. Have mounted many scopes and shot around the country competitively with everything from a .22 to a 300WM with many different scopes and never an issue without having rings bedded. Always held solid and true. But I guess some feel better doing it. Do it to feel better then. Your money, time and equipment.
 
With all due respect you are comparing apples to oranges, the ibs score target 100 yd. x is .062 dia. and 10 ring is .5 inch. multiply by yardage to increase dia's. The N.R.A. 22 cal A-50/1 uses a 5 mm x or .197 dia. at 50 meters and C2 reduced 300 meter to 200 yd. uses an x of 1.200 inches.. the whole 10 ring on an ibs 200 yd target is 1" ...The gist of this is your equipment needs to be more precise for the smaller targets. I am not taking away from your type of shooting just its a totally different deal.
 
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Rings hold a scope solid in place. Either they do or don't. They don't make a scope or rifle more precise. If a scope is slipping in rings then something is wrong with either the scope or rings.
 
i have a couple of pairs of jewell rings with a floating aluminum insert similar to the burris insert. you can add a few moa of slope to help for longer ranges.

a shame they are no longer made.
 
Ray, I have a few here they were the best "out of the box made" as you said wish they were still made other than they were only for 1 " tubes, Lee Six made some that were adjustable and swiveled so you could adjust for center of travel they were a little more complicated and a bit of a pain to adjust but were solid in the end...
 

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