Bedding MK77 Ruger...

[DoubleGobble00]

I am going to take a stab at bedding my Ruger MK77. Quick question, do you tape off the entire recoil lug with two pieces of masking tape or do you just tape the front, bottom, and sides? Thoughts?

Here is a link to a pic of recoil lug:
http://www.gunblast.com/images/Ruger-65Creedmoor/DSC09495.JPG

I plan to bed the recoil lug area, first 1-2 inch of barrel, and the rear tang area of the original stock. Thanks for the help.

Also, would you recommend I go ahead and by pillars to pillar bed while I am doing this? Or is that over kill?

Thanks,

DoubleG

 

[Larryh128]

No tape on the rear, tape on everything else. Some like it tight side to side but you need a little room to get it out. Try no bedding under the barrel 1st and shoot it. You can always add it if desired. I doubt that you need pillars on a hunting rifle.

 

[DoubleGobble00]

Thank you sir! I appreciate it.

DoubleG

 

[DoubleGobble00]

Larry - I finished bedding the MK77 last night and it turned out really good. One question, when cleaning up should the tang touch just on the bottom and not on the sides? The bedding compound was pushed out through the sides and not the tang touched on the bottom and all sides. Should I dremmel out the sides a little so the tang only touches on the bottom?

Thanks for your help.

DoubleG

 

[Raythemanroe]

Any pics? I did my m77 and used pillars that needed some grinding to let the trigger fit! I didn't tape my lug, I felt the shape of the lug it would be fine. I had trouble with the cast metal behind the lug wanting to take bedding material when separating! I had to finish the action better (little sanding and polishing) before I got a good fit!

 

[Larryh128]

There is probably not a 100% correct answer. I normally will put a very thin piece of tape on the sides and have only hard contact on the bottom. Instead of a dremel, I would use a piece of 320 grit & remove just a few thou. My main concern is coming out of the stock without binding.

 

[Larryh128]

It should squeeze out the top, glad it turned out nice.

 

[DoubleGobble00]

Thanks for the info. I will post a picture tomorrow of it. I will remove a small amount like you said. I just remember people saying that you only want the recoil lug to be touching in the direction of recoil so I thought I might should remove some around the tang. Thanks for the info.

DoubleG

 

[DoubleGobble00]

It turned out pretty good. I could have used more bedding material in the front and the bedding material stuck to one small spot on the tang. Overall I am please for a first try at bedding. Now to see if it will shoot.

 

[Raythemanroe]

You may want to remove the bedding in front of the lug later. I would like to know your results with it .

 

[DoubleGobble00]

Yeah I left the front area bedded for now since I also left the pressure point near the end of the forearm in place. If it does not shoot good I will remove one, try again, then remove both if I need to.

I will keep you posted.

 

[Larryh128]

I would eliminate the forward pressure point. It will shoot better with it gone.

 

[Larryh128]

Make sure to put some stock finish on the area that it was removed and any other place that it looks suspect.

 

[Larryh128]

Also make sure that you have 20-30 thou clearance on the bolt holes, you don't want the bolts tight to the bedding compound.

 

[Raythemanroe]

+1 on clearance on the action screws, It will mess with your torque and give false readings

 

[DoubleGobble00]

What type of stock finish can I get locally to seal the wood? After thinking about the cost of ammo, I'm gonna go ahead and remove the front pressure point and bedding in front of lug. When removing bedding in front of lug... I assume that I remove everything that touches the barrel? That right? Thanks for the help!

DoubleG

 

[Raythemanroe]

The finish shouldn't matter being it won't be seen, Just sealing the stock. I didn't remove all the material in front of the lug, enough to float the barrel.

 

[Larryh128]

Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil works decent. You want all of the wood sealed so it isn't wicking with every humidity change. I've seen pressure pointed barrels with worn finish move 3" vertically depending upon the humidity. Seal under the recoil pad as well & everything that's inletted. Do it right once & you won't be messing with it later on.

 

[DoubleGobble00]

Got ya.. Thanks for the info. I wasn't sure what to use. I will do that and see how it works. Thanks again. I will let you know how it goes.

 

[DoubleGobble00]

Well I have not shot the gun yet... but I did remove the bedding in front of the recoil lug, free floated the barrel, and sealed the stock everywhere it was exposed. Here are some pics...









DoubleG