Bedding Action With No Lug

[Dave@MAM]

I have a BAT DS action with a Bartlein 28” HV barrel ready to go into a Rutland Laminate Shehane Tracker. My question is,how far forward of the reciever, if any should I bed? I have the pillars made and am also considering gluing it in. I suppose if I bed forward of the reciever, when I change barrels, I could just re do the bedding. If I glue this thing however, I doubt I want any bedding or glue ahead of the action. Correct? Thanks in advance.

 

[tmwinds]

None of mine are bedded forward of the receiver. I have both glued and unglued. Your DS should have a undercut on the bottom of the receiver that will act as the recoil lug when it is bedded, The square tang also is a recoil lug. You have a nice selection of components.

 

[Dave@MAM]

Thank you for your reply. Yes it does have the undercut. I haven’t decided about the glue in yet. I have some time yet as I am gonna be waiting on my “wood guy” to do the finish.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Glue it in. It was designed to be glued in sans lug.

 

[gunnermhr]

Why do you say it was designed to he glued? Not many of the 1000 yard guys I know glue them. I dont glue mine and accuracy is not an issue for me.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I glue about 95% of the 1000yd guns I build. No bedding under the barrel

 

[Dusty Stevens]

Why do you say it was designed to he glued? Not many of the 1000 yard guys I know glue them. I dont glue mine and accuracy is not an issue for me.

They sell them with a lug option for the screw in installs. Im sure some have been put together without lugs. You could always call bat and ask them why they offer the lug option

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

There aren't many good reasons not to glue the action in. Glue and screw is my preference, without a lug. The tang is the lug with most br actions. Gluing an action in is not much more permanent than bedding. It only takes a few minutes to get the glued in action out and it eliminates bedding issues while distributing recoil forces evenly.

 

[Judd]

For the glue in guys...every time you turn a new barrel do you pull it out of the stock and reglue? If not, how do you headspace and gauge it correctly? Measure off the barrel you take off?

I've got one that's glued that I bought used and it's a lot bigger pain in the donkey to swap barrels. That's the main reason I've not glued any of my others.

BAT told me they prefer you just bed it, even not glued in. I sent one back that had a recoil lug and he told me it wasn't necessary and a waste...he knew it was screwed. My smith suggested the lug. I'm in the camp of you listen to your smith so I did it. No regrets but BAT did confirm it wasn't necessary.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Br smiths have all the measuring tools they need to cut a barrel without the action in hand. If I have never had the action then I would want an old barrel just to check thread timing or I can thread in a stub if I have the action to check it. For the guys that dont index barrels, they wouldnt even need that. A barrel tenon is a simple part.

 

[Toby Bradshaw]

I've got one that's glued that I bought used and it's a lot bigger pain in the donkey to swap barrels.

I'm not sure why you find it so much trouble. It's faster to remove the barrel without taking the action out of the stock. Five minutes max to change the barrel on a glue-in BR rifle.

 

[Judd]

I guess I'm just intimidated by the thought of headspace without the action. But I'm not a smith I'm just starting to get to where I can turn the lathe on

Toby - it's a TMBR and I prefer to torque my barrels on with a torque wrench and there isn't enough room between the comb and the wrench to get a torque wrench on it. I've changed a barrel on it but my OCD doesn't like not putting a torque wrench on it.

 

[Dusty Stevens]

For the glue in guys...every time you turn a new barrel do you pull it out of the stock and reglue? If not, how do you headspace and gauge it correctly? Measure off the barrel you take off?
.

There are specs you chamber the barrel to. Having a bat action in hand isnt necessary to chamber a barrel. And you can just spin it right off while glued in no problem

 

[newbieshooter]

I guess I'm just intimidated by the thought of headspace without the action. But I'm not a smith I'm just starting to get to where I can turn the lathe on

Toby - it's a TMBR and I prefer to torque my barrels on with a torque wrench and there isn't enough room between the comb and the wrench to get a torque wrench on it. I've changed a barrel on it but my OCD doesn't like not putting a torque wrench on it.

I use a 10" (or a 15") extension which just clears the TMBR stock. You can attach a torque wrench/standard wrench to tighten the barrel.

 

[farmerjohn]

Just for my own knowledge, everyone always says that it is not a problem to remove a glue-in from the stock. I agree, 30 minutes with my wife's iron and it's out, but then what! How do you put it back? Any reglue job I have paid for or watched being done was a major PIA, and the action gets taller out of the stock. Am i missing something here?

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Some of the epoxy thats left in the stock is damaged by the heat, thats why it let go of the action. You want to remove that epoxy and re-glue the action like you would the first time around. You dont just glue it down on top of whats in there.

 

[farmerjohn]

How do you remove the epoxy? Just in my head that seems to be a real chore.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

A mill will make quick work of it, normal gunsmithing job. At home a dremel will do the job as well.

 

[farmerjohn]

Thank you sir for the info, I was just wondering if I was missing something.

 

[Dave@MAM]

How thick should the layer of, say two part Gorilla epoxy, be between the bedding and the action? The reason I ask is, I have my pillars made, and when my trigger guard is installed, my action tang and ejection ports are positioned where they should be. I need to take into consideration the glue thickness, so I suppose my Devcon bedding should actually be a smudge low, before gluing the action in?