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Bedding a v block

Fast14riot

Gold $$ Contributor
I have a new stock inbound that has an aluminum bedding block, but I know I'm going to bed it still. Do you just fill everything in with epoxy like a wood inlet stock or do you bed only on the V block contact points? Pictures would be really helpful.
 
I use to lap the receiver to the block , it works but , very time consuming. Bedding with today’s products is much easier . I try to just skim coat the blocks first . Then proceed as usual , after checking barrel channel for being centered .
 
It can help. Depends on the application, stock, action, etc. I know a lot of people that bed MPA chassis (v-block). Most common reason is that is does return to zero or that it can be inconsistant after removing and reinstalling. After bedding it is more predictable.
 
A V Block is metal to metal contact. Bolt the action in place and go shooting.
If you bed anything, do the recoil lug, NOT the V Block!!

In theory, yes, but in practice, with Remington actions (et al) the rear tang tapers inward so that it is no longer supported by the "V". Torquing the rear tang bolt with anything much more than hand-tight is going to stress the action. Skim bedding gives a solid surface for all of the rear-tang.
 
I make it a practice to set the barreled action in the stock with an alignment rod in the rear screw hole, and see how well the barrel fits in the barrel inlet. Most times, it's not centered. So when I bed any action, I have the barrel setting in the barrel channel with shims, and let the action settle in the bedding. If a barrel block is installed just a few thousands off, it will move the barrel a lot more at the end.
 
Part of my motivation for bedding this stock is I had my action durakoted (only cost me materials) and I don't like the idea of metal on metal point contact in a V block. I also know that Rem actions are almost never straight and with a 1.25" barrel hanging off it it has potential to be stressed and twisted more, so increasing contact area can only help.

I appreciate the tips and advice. I will post up when its done.
 
I've bedded a number of V blocks at my customers request, it works well but lapping the action to the block achieves the same result and is more durable, it does require some know how to do correctly. The decision on which is best depends on how well your action fits the block, some blocks are made with too much angle for a Remington style taper tang to make solid contact with the block, in that case bedding is a must in my opinion or the tang will be bent as the rear screw is tightened.
 
I've bedded a number of V blocks at my customers request, it works well but lapping the action to the block achieves the same result and is more durable, it does require some know how to do correctly. The decision on which is best depends on how well your action fits the block, some blocks are made with too much angle for a Remington style taper tang to make solid contact with the block, in that case bedding is a must in my opinion or the tang will be bent as the rear screw is tightened.
How do you lap a V block without lapping the action?
 
I've bedded a number of V blocks at my customers request, it works well but lapping the action to the block achieves the same result and is more durable, it does require some know how to do correctly. The decision on which is best depends on how well your action fits the block, some blocks are made with too much angle for a Remington style taper tang to make solid contact with the block, in that case bedding is a must in my opinion or the tang will be bent as the rear screw is tightened.
Yep! ;)

Just this morning I had a high quality 'glass stock with an aluminum bedding block for a short 700 in the mill. The rear tang area had waaaay to much taper and was tipped to the right. The receiver ring area was down in the front and tipped to the left.

To get everything squared away, I lapped the block to 1.385, and opened up the block for a .750 O.D. pillar for the front and a .625 O.D. pillar for the back. The pillars are curing now and I'll do a two point bedding job (receiver ring and tang) in the next couple of days.

Good shootin' -Al
 
Last edited:
As Mikey mentioned, bolt it up ang go shoot. You only need
to bed if your stock is a known POS. I'll wrap 1200 grit cloth
to the action being used and take a few swipes to see what's
up. Generally you'll only find a nick from miss handling. All my
rifles are chassis designed, and never needed to bed any. If you
shoot bad targets. it's something else. I do not advise bedding
but I do advise taking that swipe across the block.
 
As Mikey mentioned, bolt it up ang go shoot. You only need
to bed if your stock is a known POS. I'll wrap 1200 grit cloth
to the action being used and take a few swipes to see what's
up. Generally you'll only find a nick from miss handling. All my
rifles are chassis designed, and never needed to bed any. If you
shoot bad targets. it's something else. I do not advise bedding
but I do advise taking that swipe across the block.
An alternative to wrapping wet or dry paper around the action is to coat the bedding block with a magic marker and slide the action fore and aft some to see where the contact is.
 

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