bedding a Panda action

[NickB1075]

I am looking for advice on bedding a Panda F-class. I have bedded a few Remington actions and my 2 BAT actions. One of my BAT actions is a multiflat. I used what seemed to me to be the standard stress free pillar bedding , without issues.

My next project is based on the F-class action and I just finished my stock and will be bedding It soon. I recently read an excellent and extremely informative book on rifle building. In this book he recommends that a square action like the Panda, when useing bedding compounds like Devcon it needs to be taped on the bottom and sides. As well as relief cut under the action.

I have never heard of this. Is this necessary for this action? Or can I just standard bedding procedures that I have in the past? I will be using Devcon for bedding material. I am always looking to learn.

Thanks
Nick

 

[jkohler]

Taping up the action would make bedding pointless. Maybe a piece of tape on the bottom of the lug. I'd just go at it as you have with your other bedding jobs. Ive never done a flat bottom action before. but I've Heard guys say to put a good coat of mud on Action helps.

 

[NickB1075]

That's what I was thinking. But this is a well know and respected rifle builder that wrote this book. I am going to read the bedding section for a 3rd/4th time. Hopefully more will weigh in on the topic. Maybe there is something that I am misreading. There is a picture of a Panda action that clearly appears to have tape on the sides of the action.

Nick

 

[Jay Christopherson]

I just (re)-bedded a Panda F-Class action. The only part I taped was the front of the recoil lug. I will say that even with good release agent, removing the Panda action from the bedding can be more... difficult than a round action. But, even with that, a smith that I respect highly gave me pointers on bedding and they did not include taping the action in any way. I suspect that the guy who wrote your book has had a lot of success doing it his way as well.

I can only tell you my experience based on bedding a few Panda actions with Devcon and another compound.

 

[JRS]

Cut a slight draft on both sides of the action

It facilitates the removal and installation of the action in the stock 8)

 

[Jay Christopherson]

It can be hard to get a good even bed job on a square action. I found applying bedding to both the stock and action helps reduce voids. I tape the front of the lug and the bottom. Square actions are my favorite. I feel like they bed so much more securely than a round action. On a square action the bedding will hug the action, while on a round action usually the side wont even be touching.

+1. My first job on a Panda was less than ideal, for exactly (the lack of) that reason, whereas I'd never had an issue on round actions.

 

[ridgeway]

Cut a slight draft on both sides of the action

Kelbly does offer this as an option. Not sure if it costs extra or not though.

 

[NickB1075]

Thanks for all in information. I think I am going to give Warner a call and inquire about the draft cut. I have to order a new sight from him anyway, so might as well do It all at once. As always thanks for the great information.

Nick

 

[BoydAllen]

A little note on pillar bedding...
Some years back, I had a conversation with George Kelbly about pillar bedding. He told me that back when it was new, they quickly figured out that it gave better results if there was a thin coating of bedding between the tops of the pillars and the bedding, rather than have them be metal to metal. Some of you may not remember but back in the day pillars that were cast in place, usually with Devcon aluminum putty, gave good results. When this was done, the slight srinkage issue created by the depth of the material was dealt with by a final skim bedding using liquid Devcon plastic aluminum.

 

[mgdietrich]

I have 2 Big Bore Panda's. Both have been draft cut, I would recommend this as it does allow them to be removed from the stock more easily.

I have Ahg triggers on mine, so sometimes they need to be removed from the stock to adjust the trigger.

Morgen

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I would pass on cutting the action. The square sides really get hugged by the stock. By changing that angle you loose that. Its one of my favorite things about the Panda. I personally will glue in all my actions, except for the Panda as I feel it beds well enough do to the shape.

 

[Kings X]

The book is correct

 

[Bobr]

The book is correct

Richard please explain why, and what is meant by a draft cut?
Thanks Bob

 

[Hal]

A draft cut is a slight bevel to aid in releasing from from a stock.

When a pattern of something( to be molded) is made it usualy has a 3° draft angle so it will release from the mold.

Hal

 

[JRS]

The draft on my actions is cut at 2 degrees. Removing the action, and installing it, is a breeze. No damage to the bedding, and you don't have to force it out. It gives up nothing whatsoever to the uncut sides of the action. Once bedded, the action fits as snugly as an unaltered Panda action.

 

[NickB1075]

Kings X :

Can you please explain how the book is correct. I am ininterested in your experience with this method.

Thanks
Nick

 

[Kings X]

Folks - what ever you believe in works.
I just prefer the old method.
When the fire and thunder starts - I want only the back of the recoil lug to do the "squaring up" for the bullet launch. If it and the sides both trying to do the guiding seems like a fight.
Then after the action flex - I want the bottom of the action to seat on the pillars/bedding. If the sides bind, it takes away from the free will of the action to find home. It has been proven that at one point in time - the action and the stock separate. Bedding allows that action to fit back in the stock the same way each time. If not - then way do we bed at all. Many benchrest rifle have the action gluedginto the stock to eliminated that separation. One less think to worry about.
Now draft angles, multi-flats, and round actions become "vee block" cradles t0 hold the action. On round actions I bed the bottom 120 degrees. One such rifle was used to win an F-Class Nationals.
I have never done an action with "draft" angles. If I did - the sides would not touch - just the bottom.
I have only done one Bat Multi-flat. Took 6 times to get it to suit me. I bedded the bottom and the angles next to it but relieved the vertical sides. Rifle was used to win an F-Class nationals.
Experience - Taught by Ed Shilen and Allen Hall. Until the NRA post the new National records - I have 6 customers holding over 20 records. I have been building target rifles and XP pistols since 1976.
BUT my way is not the only way. Many known and not-so-known smiths have success with Their methods. As a customer you just have to put your faith in their procedure.
Warren Page wrote about my style bedding in The Accurate Rifle. For in depth bedding and action infor - Rifle Accuracy Facts will keep you awake at night.
Good Luck to all.
Richard King

 

[Hal]

Richard

Thanks for explaning some of what you do to make a winning rifle.

Hal

 

[sean68]

In my opinion, bedding doesn't know the difference whether it is touching a vertical wall or one with a degree or two of draft - it's tight either way. If having 2 degrees won't bed right you could never get a round action to bed right. You usually only put draft below the water line of where the stock touches so there is still some flat side that still touches the stock any way, but it is way easier to get the action in and out with just a portion of the action drafted.

I don't know if all Stiller Vipers (Panda copy) have it or if it is an option, but the one I built last year had a draft angle on the lower portion of the action from the factory. It had the Stiller hard anodizing over it so someone didn't add it later. It worked great and I will add draft to any bolt in Pandas I do in the future.

You don't add draft to the back tang area at all, just the sides.

 

[NickB1075]

Richard,

I appreciate your response on this topic. That was the books I was about and since I received it about a week ago. I have not been able to put it down.

I know there is always more ways to skin the cat. Thank you for shareing some of your methods and theory with us. Like I said in my original post I am always interested in learning.

Nick