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BAT Maverick Action?

The long range Nuevo in aluminum has been out for a while now. And the Vampire and Bumblebee actions even longer. There should be zero hesitation with aluminum. You may pick one over the other based on other considerations, but all things equal I prefer aluminum.
I guess the real question is how smooth is bolt cycle, i think its splitting hairs between all these action as is they are all very precise for accuracy , looking for smooth to be fast , even on a good day at Williamsport you have to be quick with 10.
 
I guess the real question is how smooth is bolt cycle, i think its splitting hairs between all these action as is they are all very precise for accuracy , looking for smooth to be fast , even on a good day at Williamsport you have to be quick with 10.
The one I have is very smooth, everyone that has messed with it has had the same thoughts, it won’t be long and it will be in use, I hope to have it at Williamsport this September for the nats.
 
After the bedding cures, couldn’t you just open up the inlet for bosses with an endmill to given clearance around them? Or tape them up during prep for bedding?

I've done it both ways. Second time I just plunged and end mill to provide clearance. Taping was kind of a pain. The aluminum body version repels tape :cool:
 
After the bedding cures, couldn’t you just open up the inlet for bosses with an endmill to given clearance around them? Or tape them up during prep for bedding?
I put two wraps of aluminum flashing tape around the bosses for clearance when bedding. An end mill works well but it's easy to end up with clearance between the boss and the top of the pillar or leave a bit of wedge at the bottom if you don't go far enough down.
 
I guess the real question is how smooth is bolt cycle, i think its splitting hairs between all these action as is they are all very precise for accuracy , looking for smooth to be fast , even on a good day at Williamsport you have to be quick with 10.
All Bats are smooth. Its hard to beat a B for speed. The weight of the bolt itself plays a role in speed. The full diameter bolts are heavier. A guy that practices with one will still out pace a guy that doesnt with any action. You can lighten the full diameter bolts which helps. But if the goal is raw speed. You will be hard pressed to beat a well timed B
 
Only want one recoil surface
I knew that was coming ;). So anything other than the main recoil lug that could stop rearward movement of the action is bad... Ok if thats the case are we taping off the back and sides of the rear tang? Are we taping of the second recoil lug on the short Nuevo? What about the fly cuts the Viper has? Thats like 100 little recoil surfaces. Jerry thought that was a good idea. Then you have to factor in the clamping force of the action screws. Theres a lot of force holding the action tight to the top of the pillar. That interface between the action and pillar is not moving, its acting as a recoil surface. At least it better not be moving. It doesnt take the extended pillar to stop that movement in that area. I get it, I read the same stuff and yes I used to go crazy taping everything off to make sure I didnt have any more than one recoil surface. Then I realized its impossible to not have the action screws act in the same fashion. I stopped doing all that stuff and guess what happened? The guns all quit shooting! LOL, just kidding. Id recommend doing some testing in this area for yourself. I lot of the stuff I read or was told early on has not passed muster for me personally.
 
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I was always under the impression that you didn't want more than one recoil surface cotacting. Sounds like Alex has proven through his testing that this isn't the case. If you're not taping the sides or rear tang of an action that has straight sides without any draft to it, it sure makes it a pain to get the action in and out of the stock without damaging the bedding. Especially if the action doesn't have nicely chamfered or radius edges. I can see taking the time to tape off some areas would be helpful lafer for taking the barreled action in and out of the stock.
 
I knew that was coming ;). So anything other than the main recoil lug that could stop rearward movement of the action is bad... Ok if thats the case are we taping off the back and sides of the rear tang? Are we taping of the second recoil lug on the short Nuevo? What about the fly cuts the Viper has? Thats like 100 little recoil surfaces. Jerry thought that was a good idea. Then you have to factor in the clamping force of the action screws. Theres a lot of force holding the action tight to the top of the pillar. That interface between the action and pillar is not moving, its acting as a recoil surface. At least it better not be moving. It doesnt take the extended pillar to stop that movement in that area. I get it, I read the same stuff and yes I used to go crazy taping everything off to make sure I didnt have any more than one recoil surface. Then I realized its impossible to not have the action screws act in the same fashion. I stopped doing all that stuff and guess what happened? The guns all quit shooting! LOL, just kidding. Id recommend doing some testing in this area for yourself. I lot of the stuff I read or was told early on has not passed muster for me personally.
I knew that was coming. :)

I'll file it under "Don't over complicate it" like I have so many other things.
 

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