Barreling a Solus action

[Will Henry]

I think machining to contact both surfaces, with contact being on the face first, then on the inner surface, adds to the rigidity of the joint. I think the ultimate would to have a 30 degree seat at both the face and the inner seat but this would be a little difficult to achieve and would require special gauging. I base this on fitting I did to stop some hydraulic cylinder rods from breaking at the shoulder where the piston contacted. The piston was eight inches in diameter and threaded onto a three and a half inch rod with a two and a half inch tenon. I used a 45 degree seat at the shoulder and the breaking was a thing of the past.
Anyway, I don't think it hurts to contact at both ends of the thread. I'm less certain there is any point in seating on the inner surface if a nut is used.
Any time I have the opportunity to utilize an internal shoulder, I do so, but I always seat on the receiver ring first. When the barrel is tightened up, it is obvious when the inner surface contacts; the barrel won't turn anymore.
That reaming is a little homely; I think the reamer could use a touch-up. WH

 

[AlNyhus]

Certain videos of barrel internals that wander into the throat area get deleted pretty quickly, too....

 

[urbanrifleman]

Certain videos of barrel internals that wander into the throat area get deleted pretty quickly, too....

You know, because the guy is "just trying to help".

 

[EasyShooter]

That reaming is a little homely; I think the reamer could use a touch-up. WH

Im not totally pleased with that reamer either. It is only the second time I have used it. Most of the cutting is being done on only one side of the reamer. I have double checked tail stock alignment with the reamer holder in the tail stock and it is fine. If the reamer is cutting most in the back I’ll rotate just the reamer 180 degrees, leaving the holder in the tail stock, and it will start cutting more in the front. If it was a tail stock alignment the area being cut most wouldn’t change like it does. First gun I built with this reamer shoots real good though.

 

[urbanrifleman]

Im not totally pleased with that reamer either. It is only the second time I have used it. Most of the cutting is being done on only one side of the reamer. I have double checked tail stock alignment with the reamer holder in the tail stock and it is fine. If the reamer is cutting most in the back I’ll rotate just the reamer 180 degrees, leaving the holder in the tail stock, and it will start cutting more in the front. If it was a tail stock alignment the area being cut most wouldn’t change like it does. First gun I built with this reamer shoots real good though.

Go buy yourself a floating reamer holder from JGS.

 

[LVLAaron]

Go buy yourself a floating reamer holder from JGS.

JGS Holder doesn't make up for angular misalignment... which is what sounds like he has going on.

 

[Will Henry]

I don't know what your holder is bearing on, what part of the reamer shank, so it's difficult for me to comment. I don't know how the holder might be influencing the reamer; if it even is.
I would set the reamer up between centers and check it with a dial indicator to see that the shank is concentric with the body. At the same time, I would check to see if the cutting edges were the same height. What is the chamber diameter like? In comparison to the reamer dimension.
That really is a fairly ugly chamber edge and shouldn't ever happen. Finish doesn't look too great either. I'm not trying to be critical, though it kind of reads that way! WH

 

[jackieschmidt]

Im not totally pleased with that reamer either. It is only the second time I have used it. Most of the cutting is being done on only one side of the reamer. I have double checked tail stock alignment with the reamer holder in the tail stock and it is fine. If the reamer is cutting most in the back I’ll rotate just the reamer 180 degrees, leaving the holder in the tail stock, and it will start cutting more in the front. If it was a tail stock alignment the area being cut most wouldn’t change like it does. First gun I built with this reamer shoots real good though.

Upon finishing your chamber, your reamer should produce a chamber that is the size of the reamer.

When I finish a chamber, my reamer will exhibit a little resistance when inserted back into the chamber by hand.

Any flaw in your setup will in all likely hood result in a oversized chamber.

It’s the nature of reamers.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Im not totally pleased with that reamer either. It is only the second time I have used it. Most of the cutting is being done on only one side of the reamer. I have double checked tail stock alignment with the reamer holder in the tail stock and it is fine. If the reamer is cutting most in the back I’ll rotate just the reamer 180 degrees, leaving the holder in the tail stock, and it will start cutting more in the front. If it was a tail stock alignment the area being cut most wouldn’t change like it does. First gun I built with this reamer shoots real good though.

You might have some headstock misalignment going on. Diagnosing and correcting headstock alignment is tough
for a DIYer.
There are some methods out there that are a bit dodgey. I once used "Rollie's Dad's Method" to get completely messed up and confused. Wouldn't recommend it.
A very light cut on the largest aluminum stock you have, with the sharpest tool possible. Keep it less than 3X diameter in length. Check for taper with a mike.
That's assuming the lathe is set up straight, and that the ways aren't worn out right in front of the chuck.

 

[EasyShooter]

I use a PTG reamer holder. I check for tailstock alignment by turning a piece on centers with a lathe dog and the reamer holder in the tail stock. I did do a chamber casting with cerrosafe and measured. Casting measured smaller than the reamer by a little. I know that’s not possible. Cerrosafe either shrunk a little or I’m not getting a good measurement on the reamer. I’ll just finish it up and shoot it. Might set up the reamer on centers to check it out. Never thought of doing that, thanks.

 

[skeetlee]

Dave is correct. that is caused by a dull reamer im guessing Poor machine practices for sure. how does that get past final inspection? the ring marks up in the chamber indicate to me possible a few things none of which are good!
the solus is a decent action i think. I've chambered a few of them now. i hit both shoulders like it was designed for on all the barrels I've done. four of them now i think. If i had any gripe about the action it would be the bolt handle. i feel the handle is a bit short. this is probably fixable too. The firing pin and spring didn't appear to have any misalignment although I'll admit i didn't check properly. everything looked good though and I suspect it will be a fine shooting action. the barrel is were the money is anyway!
Lee Gardner Precisions

 

[Sniperhandle]

I use a PTG reamer holder. I check for tailstock alignment by turning a piece on centers with a lathe dog and the reamer holder in the tail stock. I did do a chamber casting with cerrosafe and measured. Casting measured smaller than the reamer by a little. I know that’s not possible. Cerrosafe either shrunk a little or I’m not getting a good measurement on the reamer. I’ll just finish it up and shoot it. Might set up the reamer on centers to check it out. Never thought of doing that, thanks.

Use a pusher like Dave Tooley, There is much less chance of cutting a crooked or oversized chamber.

Also, What cutting oil are you using?

 

[dustin_drews]

I just proofed a Solus cad cut file I drew up tonight.

This is how I cut mine.

It says I the print you can opt not to thread .250.
Be sure to make a relief for the action to shank

shoulder. I forgot to and it did not seat as it should have. The radius got in the way.


God Bless,
Dustin
Drews Precision