Barrel Vises?

[Golfer]

I have a number of Savage rifles. I have a homemade barrel vise that uses wooden blocks. After applying rosin and torquing down the vise bolts I cannot break the barrel nut loose using the barrel nut wrench. This applies to factory installed barrels. I tried Kroil and a hammer but the barrel just turns in the blocks.
I see two types of barrel vises out there. One uses aluminum sleeves and one has a rounded off diamond shaped opening that needs no sleeves. I think Tubb makes a diamond type one but says it is not for factory barrels.
Can you guys recommend a vise that will work with Savage factory barrels?

 

[artbosco]

Can you guys recommend a vise that will work with Savage factory barrels?

Kelbly's: http://www.kelbly.com/price2.html sells one that will work with any barrel. Scroll down the page. It's under Additional Items.

 

[deadlyswift]

The barrel nut on the Savage are so dang tight from the factory. I guess it's a lawyer thing for Savage. Anyway put the barrel in the vise with the wrench on the nut! Smack the wrench with a brass hammer or what ever kind of hammer you have. A quick sharp smack will send shock waves and the barrel nut will just pop loose!
Mark

 

[anyrange]

Two things that I would try.
1. 50/50 mix of Kroil/Acetone (Acetone evaporates or thins the oil which gets it in deeper)
2. I use a thin sheet or piece of rubber between the barrel and wooden blocks. I think I get better grip.

 

[CoverDog]

I have a Bench-Source #09-G-105 that fits 13/16" to 1 1/2" barrels, tapered or straight. This is a triangular shaped vise.

I use thin strips of leather cut fron an old cowboy boot. I wrap the barrel, tighten the vise and break free the barrel nut with a Savage nut wrench. Then I use a Bench-Source rear entry action wrench # 09-G-106 and spin off the action.

I have removed a 30 year old factory barrel using the above tools. I just use Kroil the day before and the barrel came off without spining in the vise. Leather leaves no marks on the barrel.

 

[moosetracker]

I use a barrel vise with aluminum bushings (bought on eBay for $80) and a barrel nut wrench from SSS ($40). On a factory barrel I give the wrench a wrap with a mallet and it comes off every time without turning in the vise. I've done at least 50 so far for friends and acquaintances. Here's a photo:

 

[Rustystud]

I have never encontered a barrel nut that I could not remove one way or another.
With the proper barrel vice, barrel nut wrench, and action wrench anyone should be able to get the action off a Savage.
As a machinist and gunsmith I often read post that disturb me.
Mixing of chemicals especially solvents or the use of heat.
Combined with folks that don't understand metals and their traits.
Solvents (acetone) removes the lubricants that keep metals from gaulding.
Some barrrels/actions require to be machined apart due to abuse and neglect.
If you don't know how to remove a barrel from and action and put it back properly get some help from a qualified person. Otherwise you may cause more damage or harm.
Getting help from the internet and some one you don't know their skills is often foolish.
Good Luck
Nat Lambeth

 

[fdshuster]

My setup is similar to moosetracker, except for my remington 700's, using the Davidson barrel vise and rear entry wrench, although for switchbarrels, not factory installed. I've been using the heavy brown paper shopping bags, cut in strips and wrapped around the barrel 6 or 7 times. Over the years have changed polished blue, beadblasted, and polished stainless and have never put a mark on any. The typical factory barrel that was installed by the 800# gorilla goes to my gunsmith for removal.

 

[jonbearman]

I use the fabric strapping used to tie down stuff on skids as a buffer between my reciever wrench and use a compothane hammer to not ruin my barrel nut wrench and they all come off.The strapping is lining the reciever wrench with the use of rosin as well.I have never scratched a reciever or barrel ever this way. All you need are 2 strips about an 1 1/2 long lining the reciever wrench or barrel vise and coat with rosin on both siade's. Tighten the reciever wrench or barrel vise and take the sss wrench and smack with the compothane(deadblow) hammer.If it doesnt work I will eat it.

 

[Golfer]

Thanks for all the replies. I respect Nate's reply about being careful and qualified when removing and replacing a barrel. I have removed, headspaced and replaced Savage barrels that were already broken loose from the factory installation. I did not encounter any problems. I checked the Kelbys, Farrell, Davidson and Tubb "diamond" vises and they seem not to be designed for breaking loose factory installed barrels. The diamond does not appear to provide sufficient grip to allow the force necessary to break the Savage barrel nut's grip. Moosetrackers picture shows a bushing type vise that I have been looking at on E-Bay. The E-Bay guy says he can custom bore tapered bushings to fit specific barrel contours.
Since I am dealing only with Savage rifles do I need an action wrench at all? If so which type and brand will work with Savage model 12 & target actions?

 

[Rustystud]

Tne barrel nuts are used as a jam nut. The are not engineered to be put on but snug tight. One can use a real action wrench like Brownells sells and use the barrel nut wrench as an anchor. The remove the action from the nut. You have something more sunbstantial to work with. You don't even need a barrel vice. I still reccomend holding the barreled action in a barrel vice.

Nat Lambeth

 

[moosetracker]

I originally bought an action wrench along with a barrel vise to take off factory barrels. As mentioned above, I've taken off at least 50 factory barrels and I have yet to use the action wrench!

Although it has never happened to me, if you brake the Savage lock ring you can get a new one from SSS for $27.

My .02 cents.

 

[Kenny474]

I made my own barrel vise which uses oak blocks coated with rosin to clamp the barrel. I usually have at least 1/4" gap between the blocks when they are sitting on the barrel to allow for plenty of compression. I also drill the hole in the blocks just smaller than the barrel diameter.
I use an action wrench I made that clamps onto the outside of the action similar to the one offered by Brownells, and it has a handle of 1" steel rod 24" long.

When I encounter a Savage Gorilla tightened barrel, and all the chrome-moly barrels usually are, I put the nut wrench on, then slide the barrel into the vise and slide it in far enough that the nut wrench is over my bench, then turn the barrel so the wrench is pressing against my bench on the left side of the barrel and tighten the vise. Now when I use my action wrench to turn the action, the barrel nut will stay put and the action will unscrew without any issues. Simple and effective. No solvents to remove the antiseize or whatever happens to be on the threads to prevent galling, no heat, nothing to harm the threads in any way.

Below are the action wrench and barrel vise that I copied. I don't see why they wouldn't work just as well as what I made. If you need an action wrench, this is a very affordable unit.
The vise I copied: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=226100

Action wrench I copied: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=710783

Good luck

Kenny

 

[hogan]

I use a B-Square barrel vise with alum bushings and secure the vise in a large bench vise. Use a Brownells action wrench to remove the barrel, often with a mechanics hammer to break the torque that factory applied.

Sako barrels are notorious for being torqued excessively. Once had to use a Rigid 24" pipe wrench to remove a Rem 700 barrel that was about frozen in place. Did gouge the hell out of the barrel... Have found that degreasing barrel, wrapping with saran wrap, then slipping bushing onto saran wrapped area and applying sugar to outside of bushing will keep barrel from turning or marring finish. I torque hell out of the barrel vise bolts and the bench vise jaws so nothing moves. A big cheater bar on the 3/4" bolt heads works well.

Have used this setup for over 15 years. If had bigger shop or did more barrel work, would likely have a permanently mounted, (more massive) barrel vise; but the B-Square has been very good. Brownells action wrench is superb and really worth the money.

 

[rbertalotto]

The best barrel vise I've ever used I made out of a bunch of scrap metal, two 3/4" bolts and a bottle jack from Harbor Freight Tools. I use hard oak blocks or aluminum blocks wit Brownells Steel Bed inserts as the case may need....