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Barrel vise question

nmkid

Gold $$ Contributor
This evening I successfully removed my first barrel off a Savage action. Was sweating it but, it came off easy peasy. So, it appears my barrel vise left 2 small, (about 1/4" long) on the top side of the barrel. I think they occurred because of the barrel taper. I forgot to slip the wrench on the barrel before I tightened it down. So, when I started over is when I noticed the small marks. Not knowing what to do, I rolled a single layer of duct tape on the barrel, tightened it up again and took the barrel off without any slippage. So, how do I prevent vise marks? Tighten up the 2 front nuts where the barrel is slightly thicker and then the back 2 nuts where the barrel would be slightly thinner? This is what my vise looks like.

upload_2018-4-2_21-22-53.jpeg
 
I wrap an index card around the barrel shank. If it still leaves marks, then a little 0000 steel wool will usually take care of it without damaging the finish.
 
I use the neoprene squares they sell at the hardware stores / big boxes for plumbing repairs. Comes in a 4''x4'' sheet then just cut to fit top and bottom. No slip or marring.
 
This evening I successfully removed my first barrel off a Savage action. Was sweating it but, it came off easy peasy. So, it appears my barrel vise left 2 small, (about 1/4" long) on the top side of the barrel. I think they occurred because of the barrel taper. I forgot to slip the wrench on the barrel before I tightened it down. So, when I started over is when I noticed the small marks. Not knowing what to do, I rolled a single layer of duct tape on the barrel, tightened it up again and took the barrel off without any slippage. So, how do I prevent vise marks? Tighten up the 2 front nuts where the barrel is slightly thicker and then the back 2 nuts where the barrel would be slightly thinner? This is what my vise looks like.

View attachment 1044135
on a savage i just use a receiver wrench-
 
I would stay away from duc-tape as a gripping aid. Under high pressure, the glue actually seems to work as a lubricant allowing the surface to glide under the fabric. Clean, dry, paper adds protection and grip. jd
 
Thanks guys. Seems I should have just about everything I need laying around to do the job
 
Cereal box cardboard (a little thicker), index card stock, manila file folder stock, anything similar. The below is file folder stock.

7GFtUXb.jpg


Tighten the vise securely. If needed I bore bushings tapered to fit tapered barrels. A metal lathe in the shop is handy for many things. Bushings are brass.
 
But if you are in Kalifornia you have to pay a tax for each contact point on the barrel and the target must be CA Approved;)


And you must do a background check and have a permit to possess a barrel vise and action wrench. Don't laugh, this is what it is coming to. A lathe will be next to be licensed, then the chamber reamers.
 
I have a little bottle on the bench with a slurry of denatured alcohol and bowlers rosin. Shake it up, dab a little where the paper is going to be, and let the alcohol flash off. Wrap a sticky note around the barrel and go to work. Usually takes about 15 seconds. Nice thin even coating of rosin, no dry rosin all over hell and gone, no slippage at all, and NO damage to any finish. Cleans up completely with a patch soaked with DNA.
I wish this was my idea but I got it from a Brownells Kink book/Roland Beaver.
 

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