Barrel switch rifle question

[LRCampos]

As a beginner I am considering to have a switch barrel rifle, instead of 2 rifles because of law limitation in my country.
But there are no such rifle on my part of the country, so I would appreciate any help you can give to solve some doubts I have.

The first question is that I cannot understand how I will turn the barrel at the action at the same exact point each time I install the barrel? Which technique is used to maintain the exact headspace on each re installation of the barrel?,witness mark?)

Also, is there any problem to constantly change barrels, say... some 3 or 4 times a month? Does it result on a "loose" fit with time?
Thanks in advance for any informatio about switch barrel rifles.

 

[Caduceus]

The headspacing is set by the gunsmith at the time of initially fitting the barrel. After that, you just turn it until it's "tight". The shoulder of the barrel will seat against the face of the action so there's a mechanical stop point.

The definition of tight varies between different persons. I guess if you try hard enough, you could over-torque it and compress the threads leading to a reduction in headspace,apparently the Remington factory are renowned for this) but for normal use they aren't wound on excruciatingly tight.

I use a 12 inch handle which has the socket in the middle to hold the action wrench. I push down with my right hand and pull up with the left and snug it up firmly. I certainly don't put my body weight behind it.

If you're careful not to cross thread it, keep the threads clean and lubricated to avoid galling, I doubt you'd wear it out with frequent swaps.

 

[LRCampos]

My thought is to use one rifle for 2 disciplines: one in .30BR,with heavy bullets, around 150 to 168gr.)for position shooting and silhouette matches out to 200 yards. The other barrel would in 6mmBR to be used for F-Class type matches out to 600 yards.
I am planning in use a McMillan Modified 40X stock or even have two stocks for it.
I think I will change the barrels around 3 to 4 times per month and I really don't have any experience, nor I ever saw one personally, on this type of rifle. From what I read the BR shooters change the barrels at the range, so I suppose it is not a complicated task.
The laws in my country allow me to have a very limited numbers of guns, so we have to use it on a multirole mission.

 

[M700]

Perhaps the Savage owners could chip in here - but I believe that Savage barrels are almost ridiculously easy to swap.

I know that on my Win Model 70, it doesn't take much to swap from one barrel to another, once they're properly chambered. A barrel vise and a big herking wrench for the receiver is about all that's necessary.

Regards, Guy

 

[SF340Driver]

If you get a good smith a switch barrel rifle is easy and convenient. I switch barrels on my Nesika action. They happen to be in the same caliber but different twist rates. Going to a different caliber on the same parent case works well to ie. 308 to 243. Once the smith sets up the barrels they are put on and torqued to a specific setting. I use 15 ft/lb -- yes that's it and I have never had one back off. All you need to switch is a barrel vice or a set of inserts for a bench vice and an action wrench. I use the type of wrench that inserts from the rear of the action thru the boltway made by Davidson's,SP?) and has a head that you can use with a torque wrench. If you don't repeat the torque you won't get the same results ie. your pet load won't be happy. Make sure you use a good anti-seize on the threads.

Good luck with your setup.
Greg

 

[6Dasher]

I have two custom rifles on which I switch barrels. I have been switching frequently for the last two years and it is still as new. Just be carefull to thread it on properly and not force anything. I use bolt grease on the threads to keep it from galing and clean/grease the threads before they go on.

 

[LRCampos]

Thank you for the replies. I think you all made a point: be careful, use the right tools and I can change the barrels without worry.
Well, I think it may be the way to go.
Thank you again!

 

[tenring]

To Greg: I also switch barrels on my custom actions frequently using port wrenches. I simply draw the wrench up to set the threads pretty snug. But I am curious as to how you are able to attach a torque wrench to the rear entry action tool. Please explain.

 

[Caduceus]

Tenring,

I didn't mean a torque wrench - it's just a simple "T" handle socket wrench. However, I'm sure you could still use a torque wrench on a rear entry action wrench if you wanted to.

 

[SF340Driver]

Tenring,

My Davidson's wrench has a "nut" style head on it that is designed for a 7/8" socket. I'll get a pic up for you if you want.

Greg

 

[Mark Walker in TX]

Tenring,

My Davidson's wrench has a "nut" style head on it that is designed for a 7/8" socket. I'll get a pic up for you if you want.

Greg

Please.

TIA.

 

[yooper70]

Please help the newbie, Where can I buy inserts for a bench vise to swap my savage heavy barrel? What type of material is best for padding between the insert teeth and the barrel? I did a search online for a "barrel vice" and I gave up after about 6 websites.

 

[tightneck]

Yooper, you can get a barrel vise from Sinclair international, Midway, Brownells, Bruno's shooter supply, Allied Shooters Accesories, RW Hart and sons and numerous other websites. The cheapest barrel vise I know of is a Davidson, Its available from Sinclair as well as others for I think 20 or 30 bucks.

 

[chino1969]

Perhaps the Savage owners could chip in here - but I believe that Savage barrels are almost ridiculously easy to swap.

The Savage barrels are easy to swap. You will need a Savage barrel nut wrench available from Sharp Shooter Supply or Brownell's and either a padded vise or two pieces of oak with holes to hold the barrel. Sharp Shooter Supply has pretty good instructions on their website for barrel swap-out and there are many threads that will guide you through. The first time you do it will take about fifteen minutes, after that you should be able to swap a barrel in five minutes.
Chino69

 

[yooper70]

Thanks, I like the drilled wood and carpet the best, that way I save money for more guns...

 

[yooper70]

The rebarreling process is quite simple. All that is needed is: a barrel vise,a sturdy bench vise 4" or larger with a pair of wooden blocks with a hole drilled between them), a Sharp Shooter barrel nut wrench,to loosen nut), and a head space gauge OR a sized case to set the head space. Many prefer the sized case method as it will match your dies perfectly.

the above paragraph is from sss website.

I am shooting factory ammo, so can I just use an empty piece of brass as a headspace guage?

 

[olympian]

I have two switch barrel rifles at the moment,Stolle Panda, Remington 700) and the barrel switching is a very simple procedure. I do mine by hand although I have the vice and wrench for them. With my actions, the vice approach is an overkill. With the Remington, I switch out bolts as well due to differences in the cartridges and again, very simple procedure. I suggest you spend the extra money and get a really good action and enjoy the flexibility of switching barrels for years to come. The point of impact is a little different with the barrel switch but consistent. My Panda barrels have a pretty close point of impact at 100 yards considering the caliber change. I am selling my Remington switch, but I will be replacing it with another switch set-up soon.