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Barrel Nut Disadvantages?

Someone school me please.

So say I've got an older 700 Rem rifle in whatever cartridge. I've got the means by which to remove the barrel, and would like to order a shouldered barrel chambered for a different cartridge. (same action length)

What do I do. Measure action face to bolt face?? Old barrel shank? jd
Not knowing what/if any work has been done on your action I'd ask that you send me the take off barrel and I'd just duplicate all the dimensions. If it was a bone stock action and I could trust your numbers all I would need is the HS number.
 
Not knowing what/if any work has been done on your action I'd ask that you send me the take off barrel and I'd just duplicate all the dimensions. If it was a bone stock action and I could trust your numbers all I would need is the HS number.

That is sure the easiest way for me too. Put in the gauge and measure and make it exactly the same.

This would be a "known good", including the recoil lug.
 
Care to elaborate?

Sure why not.

So you take your head space gauge and you apply one piece of Scotch tape to the back of it that gives you 1.5 to 2 thou on the gauge. Put the gauge with the tape on it into the action close bolt run the barrel right down on the gauge until it stops hand tight. Make a mark on the action and the barrel to show where that lines up back the barrel. Back off enough where you can get the gauge out.

Put the back barrel back where it was and tighten the nut right there.

You are done and it is set to a hard stop and you can do action after action after action it'll be exactly the same. No guessing between go and no go approximately it's go plus 1.5 to 2. Every single time.
 
I did something similar with my .308 Win FTR barrels; I used a Forster National Match headspace gauge kit. Rather than just 'Go' and 'No-Go', it had them in 0.001" increments. Worked pretty well.
 
Sure why not.

So you take your head space gauge and you apply one piece of Scotch tape to the back of it that gives you 1.5 to 2 thou on the gauge. Put the gauge with the tape on it into the action close bolt run the barrel right down on the gauge until it stops hand tight. Make a mark on the action and the barrel to show where that lines up back the barrel. Back off enough where you can get the gauge out.

Put the back barrel back where it was and tighten the nut right there.

You are done and it is set to a hard stop and you can do action after action after action it'll be exactly the same. No guessing between go and no go approximately it's go plus 1.5 to 2. Every single time.
I assume that's the "go gauge"?
I just love simple stuff that works.
And with that method, it seems that the brass that's been fired in that barrel/chamber could follow the barrel to whatever action it might go on next. jd
 
I assume that's the "go gauge"?
I just love simple stuff that works.
And with that method, it seems that the brass that's been fired in that barrel/chamber could follow the barrel to whatever action it might go on next. jd

Correct. It repeats no matter where the barrel goes, or if you use the same reamer, every new chamber. No guessing. Hard stop.
 
Yes, I have stated the same multiple time. Instead of setting dies and messing with shell holders and whatnot, you set your own headspace yourself. You can even change your mind. And this works across all your rifles, and action types. One headspace. All your brass fits all your rifles.

I have a method for setting headspace with the nut that is exactly the same every single time. It's not "between go and no go", it's dead nuts the same
I do to but I don't use the tape before tightening the nut.
 
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