I do not, but years before the 2013 and, to the best of my knowledge years before any representation of any type of BR version, best guess ‘90-‘91
When this took place, my understanding was the BR-50 was in discussion….not offered yet.
Action, I believe, was not nickel plated but hardened electroless nickel …..was harder than case colored.
This I know because when they came they had the action clamp screws plus a 4-40 set screw that indexed on a barrel flat…..which was glued.
Mine snapped and I had a high end machine shop locally that could only get it out using EDM and then new tap to clean it up. Tool and die guy indicated it was some hard stuff.
Thank you. I'd think it might have been '91, as the earliest 2013 receivers were blued. The advertisement of a nickel finish suggests to me these were production rifles, not prototypes.
Regarding the tuner/tube/weight, I'm not surprised it was considered a tuner. The thicker clamping section is unusually long for an extension tube. Anschutz supplied slip-on weights with the 20xx position rifles, so my first thought is that the heavier tube isn't just for mass/balance as extra rings could do that. At the time Anschutz wete developing the 2013, they were arguably at their peak, having dominated the smallbore world (outside the USSR) for twenty years, and I think wanted the 2013 to be the ultimate 3P rifle.
Did I say anything about an issue ?
Yes, that's the 2007/2013 50cm barrel that's been in discussion for the last page.Shortly after that article appeared Anz did their own test in house ( as reported in same Mag.) and shorter barrels appeared on Anz units- they also had a hollow tube mounted up front. Nothing to do with accuracy or tuning just there to extend Iron sight radius so that the 5 clicks per A36 target ring remained constant .
Always get great color from your posts Kev.Good morning Tim:
Love this conversation, it is right in my wheelhouse! I shot a 2000 series Anschutz action (in position and prone stocks) for over 20 years, it was the first action that made barrel swapping (for the non-gunsmith in the early years) a practical option.
I have one of the original (I believe prototype) blued actions. I'm not sure how to research it, but there can't be many. In the very early 90's I shot an indoor smallbore league in the winter, and a guy I knew had one (and I had been looking ever since).
What's interesting are the changes Anschutz made to these actions through the years (some significant). The configuration of the bottom of the action was originally a cross shape (recoil lug area), and later just a "T". The loading ramp / ejector system was also changed from a rigid "bolted" connection to an angled ejector that pushed the ramp against the tennon (and secured with a spring clip). But the biggest change was the slot at the action clamping screws. In the early actions it stopped at the third clamping screw (making it ineffective as there was no allowance for movement). Later actions have the slot cut past the third screw - giving all three the ability to purchase on the tennon.
There is / was a center setscrew that bore on a flat on the tennon, that I never understood. If you follow Lilja's replacement directions (and tighten it first, with the clamping screws relaxed) it creates a significant pressure point and in testing ruined accuracy, or made it erratic and unpredictable at best. All of us left it out, using only the three clamping screws (which were adequate to secure the barrel, even at low torque values, say 2nm).
I struggled with this action throughout all those years for consistency. I documented action setup meticulously with each barrel, and only on rare occasion could you get documented accuracy to repeat (same barrel, exact same setup, same tuner position and same documented lot of ammunition). Many have said if you get this action to shoot well, leave it completely alone until the barrel / lot is expanded, and I totally agree. The only problem was that this action made it so easy to experiment it was impossible to do.
Regarding accuracy, the action has exceptional ignition and extraction. Clamping screw torque was one of the most significant modifiers, that and tennon diameter. Tennon diameter was critical regarding the clamping screws, the tennon needed to be a light press fit so you got as much contact as possible, and the screws expended as little force as possible to close the gap between the action and tennon. If you bedded the action, variation in the tennon diameter would cause the corner of the action at the clamping screws to "lift", which was never a good thing.
Anyhow, thanks for the conversation.......I have really enjoyed it!
kev
Hi Kevin,
Thank you, I'd never noticed that 2013 ejectors changed early on; I'll file away that titbit. I have in mind that Anschutz changed the ejector's spring clip to a screw recently.
I do have one question: have you, or anyone you know of, considered filling in the split in the receiver, and bonding in the barrel? That would lose the quick change facility, but also any stress on the action from torquing around the barrel tenon.
Always get great color from your posts Kev.
Mine always seemed OK but then, I was shooting against few true customs.
Tommy Meredith stocked and bedded mine.
FWIW, I always used the setscrew very lightly to index then backed it off.
One curiosity that was supplied was the factory “ torque wrench” which had two settings, basically a long allen wrench with two finger grooves. Connected it with rifle standing on ground and when butt raised slightly, torque was reached. Never saw another.
At one point fit a Lilja but it was about same as factory barrel, was the first true “ modded” RFBR rig I ever shot. Thanks……now I feel old.
Anyway have a nice holiday.
P.S. put car in storage yet?
Tim
Why waste your time and energy and money fighting a system that doesn't want to work?
Little to do with accuracy???? How much, I know not but little, I would offer the following.I know it's an old post but most BR rimfire rifles are in the 24-25 inch range. The actual length has little to do with accuracy as far as length alone. Calfee and other gunsmiths I've known let the barrel tell them the best place to chamber and crown. Although not set in stone, the 24-35 inch range seems optimum in most barrels. Calfee once chambered a 28" barrel that was great because his assessment of the barrel was that the 28" inch length was optimum. Even Calfee could fall to the "I can do it again the same way" syndrome and tried to replicate the barrel to no avail. He finally gave up and reassessed and cut to 25.5" approx. His intended customer for that barrel wanted the longer barrel but I got the shorter version for $125. Great barrel.
The Bill Calfee XP100 40X 22 rimfire pistols have 21-22 inch somewhat thin barrels with tuners. The one I shot was extremely accurate.this may not be relevant to your discussion but I have a 54 MS from the early 80's. It came with a 20.5" barrel. It also came with the action wrench with two finger notches for about a 10 lb. and about a 12.5 lb. gun. This seemed to work quite well. I had it set up for just under 10lb. I played with muzzle weight and also put a tube that clamped on. The weight could be moved all the way out to just short of 30 in. I always thought it shot better with the tube and weight on it. A tuner might be fun to play with on this 20.5 in barrel.
They're not all 21-22 inch. The first one I had was 22" and the one I have now is 24". The shorter/thinner barrel was more for weight than anything as was the entire XP-Rimfire concept as applied to benchrest (The first conversions were for silhouette) due to BR-50 and the weight handicap. You may not have the best target and still win when you get 5%added to your score.The Bill Calfee XP100 40X 22 rimfire pistols have 21-22 inch somewhat thin barrels with tuners. The one I shot was extremely accurate.
