Barrel Deflection

[Badbob]

I like a lot of room also. Just lets the epoxy flow easier. I use a Quick clamp to pull the action into position. If it wants to spring back because of lack of flow I leave it on for 15-20 minutes then remove it. Then gravity takes over.

I should have tried that. I glued it up last night and had to keep pressing the action down into the stock until it settled and stopped rising upwards. Thanks for the help

 

[Badbob]

I should have tried that. I glued it up last night and had to keep pressing the action down into the stock until it settled and stopped rising upwards. Thanks for the help

Update: I let the action cure in the stock for 48 hours. I separated the action this evening. The bedding looked perfect! Again, this was the gravity method--no stress on the action. I cleaned up the trigger well, drop port and the pillar holes. Mounted the stock and torqued the action screws and check the bedding with my dial indicator. The result is pretty much the same as before. The rear action screw move the action -.0015" However the front move .015". Again--failed the test. If I loosed the rear a quarter turn, then the front would only move .007". Still a failure. At this point I'm going to conclude the wood in the stock is fatigued. I guess I could go shoot it and see how she does but my intuition says I'll be chasing my tale. Again, thanks everyone for your input.

 

[AlNyhus]

Boy...lots of places to look. What action and recoil lug setup is this? What type of pillar and action screws?

 

[Nealm66]

I’m definitely no expert but I will raise the tang by wrapping 1/8 inch wide electrical tape somewhere away from the action screw, this might solve your movement problems. I then have to bed the area where the tape was. This also lets me make the bedding thicker. I’m not sure but thought I would mention this

 

[Nealm66]

I should add that I also wrap the barrel, centering and raising it. Basically lifting the whole action a smidge making room for more bedding and eliminating a place for the action to rock.

 

[DaveTooley]

Just spit balling here. Do you bed the barrel in front of the action? Do you tape off the lug, bottom, sides & front? Do you check it with a stripped barreled action? If mine move it's usually because the trigger or something is binding/touching. How about clearance on the screws through the pillars?

 

[Dimner]

I use marine tex, and I followed Al's instructions for balance points and bedding prep in the stock, and stock screw centering in the pillars and I was able to get my tikka down to .002" deflection. When I finally measured and I saw that 0.002" deflect I wanted to do this:

 

[Badbob]

Boy...lots of places to look. What action and recoil lug setup is this? What type of pillar and action screws?

Bat B, integrated recoil lug. Drop port so it just has a trigger guard and no third action screw. Aluminum pillars.

 

[Badbob]

I’m definitely no expert but I will raise the tang by wrapping 1/8 inch wide electrical tape somewhere away from the action screw, this might solve your movement problems. I then have to bed the area where the tape was. This also lets me make the bedding thicker. I’m not sure but thought I would mention this

Thanks for your help. I did not use any tape. I just floated the action in the stock using gravity. The front of stock was on my sinclair rest and the rear was supported in the rear bag.

 

[Badbob]

Just spit balling here. Do you bed the barrel in front of the action? Do you tape off the lug, bottom, sides & front? Do you check it with a stripped barreled action? If mine move it's usually because the trigger or something is binding/touching. How about clearance on the screws through the pillars?

Hi there . . . I did not bed the barrel shank/shoulder. I put tape on the front and bottom of the lug but not on the sides or on the back of the lug. The Bat B (drop port, 1.4" octagon body) has a rounded bottom lug. No trigger, no scope, no bolt. The pillars have been opened up so the action screws do not bind (actually never bound)--plenty of clearance there.

I'm wondering if just the weight of the barreled action is enough to deflect the stock.

 

[Badbob]

I use marine tex, and I followed Al's instructions for balance points and bedding prep in the stock, and stock screw centering in the pillars and I was able to get my tikka down to .002" deflection. When I finally measured and I saw that 0.002" deflect I wanted to do this:

View attachment 1543357

Ya . . . I feel ya. I used Marine Tex grey. I'm pretty corked about this setup.

 

[AlNyhus]

Since there's nothing to lose, try making some clearance around the sides of the lug. Also, do a slight radiusing of all the edges wirh a file. A sharp edge at the top of the action screw holes in the bedding can give wonky indicator readings.

 

[DaveTooley]

Hi there . . . I did not bed the barrel shank/shoulder. I put tape on the front and bottom of the lug but not on the sides or on the back of the lug. The Bat B (drop port, 1.4" octagon body) has a rounded bottom lug. No trigger, no scope, no bolt. The pillars have been opened up so the action screws do not bind (actually never bound)--plenty of clearance there.

I'm wondering if just the weight of the barreled action is enough to deflect the stock.

I wouldn't think that would happen. Even if the stock flexed , meaning forearm, during bedding the action area wouldn't. I'm with Al. There's an edge somewhere causing the problem. First I'd take it out and shoot it. The target tells all.
When I bed the less the action touches the better I like it. I have a 5/8" strip down the middle of the action and the back side of the recoil lug touching.

 

[Badbob]

Since there's nothing to lose, try making some clearance around the sides of the lug. Also, do a slight radiusing of all the edges wirh a file. A sharp edge at the top of the action screw holes in the bedding can give wonky indicator readings.

Agreed . . . I'll work on it some more and report back.

 

[LVLAaron]

When you're measuring... is the gun vertical or horizontal?

 

[Badbob]

When you're measuring... is the gun vertical or horizontal?

Both . . . results vary but not by much

 

[Badbob]

Report: I cleaned up the bedding edges, drop port and trigger well. No change in measurements. I relieved the bedding compound at the side of the recoil lug . . . no change in measurements. I think I might just go shoot it. Thanks again for everyone's help.

 

[Jud96]

Any updates on this? I’m actually dealing with the exact same problems. I’m rebedding my LV rifle and I can’t for the life of me get the bedding to come out stress free. I’ve bedded probably a dozen other rifles successfully and I’ve redone this one like 4 times in the past week. It’s driving me nuts lol. I’m about ready to just glue it in even if the bedding job has stress in it. I was planning to glue it in anyways, but I was hoping for a stress free bedding job to glue in over. Thanks

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Any updates on this? I’m actually dealing with the exact same problems. I’m rebedding my LV rifle and I can’t for the life of me get the bedding to come out stress free. I’ve bedded probably a dozen other rifles successfully and I’ve redone this one like 4 times in the past week. It’s driving me nuts lol. I’m about ready to just glue it in even if the bedding job has stress in it. I was planning to glue it in anyways, but I was hoping for a stress free bedding job to glue in over. Thanks

How much deflection are you getting at the tip of the forend?

 

[Jud96]

How much deflection are you getting at the tip of the forend?

.005-.010, I’ve tried several techniques and I still can’t get the stress out of it