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Barrel cleaning method

Lol , foam it or Butch's bore shine , let it sit , brush it , patch it out... If clean , oily patch then a dry patch then put gun in gun safe... If not clean do it again..

Everybody has their way.. I do use coated rods and bore guides now...
 
Like most things in this game, there are 10 different ways to do the same thing and 7 of them will work great. But here is the one thing I believe applies to all of them:

It's easier to keep a barrel clean than to clean a dirty barrel....

My own experience; cleaning after shooting is a 15-20 minute job. Cleaning after the dam barrel after it is real dirty, is just cleaning, taking a break and cleaning some more. A clean patch " TELLS YOU NOTHING ", only a bore scope will tell you if the barrel is clean....
 
With that many rounds down the barrel before cleaning you might add two wet patches of Sweets as an accelerator before brushing with Bore Shine. Nylon brushes just prolong the cleaning process. I use peroxide to neutralize at the end and then Kroil to condition the bore before storing.
Hi LC, when you say peroxide to neutralize the sweets do you mean hydrogen peroxide?
Drags
 
Hi LC, when you say peroxide to neutralize the sweets do you mean hydrogen peroxide?
Drags
Yes hydrogen peroxide available at the grocery store. It neutralizes the Sweets and the Bore Shine. Foams out of the muzzle carrying the loose copper and powder fouling with it. Dry patch several times after peroxide then run patch with Kroil. Kroil will not only condition the bore but will reveal any fouling that is left. Kroil patch should appear red, not black. Black indicates you didn't get it clean. I have verified all this with Hawkeye bore scope!
 
I use peroxide after Sweets just the same, per Speedy's recommended procedure.
I also finish my cleaning, which is after every use of any gun, with a washing of the best drying alcohol I can get my hands on, and then a dry pre-fouling with WS2 (tungsten disulphide) powder.
My bores are put away dry.

One thing I strongly recommend AGAINST: J-B red (bore bright), or any other 'polish'.
The best barrels are not polished, they're lapped to the proper surface profile.
So instead, use J-B blue (NON-EMBEDDING BORE CLEANING COMPOUND) to remove old carbon/constrictions.
 
Think you were confused before you posted this thread - Good Luck with clarity - There are as many methods as there are shooters. There are some basics however:

- Use a rod guide
- Use a carbon remover solvent
- Use a cooper remover solvent
- Clean the chamber also
- Lube the bolt lugs
 
Think you were confused before you posted this thread - Good Luck with clarity - There are as many methods as there are shooters. There are some basics however:

- Use a rod guide
- Use a carbon remover solvent
- Use a cooper remover solvent
- Clean the chamber also
- Lube the bolt lugs

And a brass brush will beat a nylon one every time.
 
A respected competition shooter in our area soaks his barrels with sweets. He stated for chrome moly barrels he soaks for one hour and for stainless barrels he soaks overnight. He also stated that he doesn't let the sweets dry out in the barrel but he did't say how he does that. Your thoughts.
Drags
 
For those looking for a borescope, Grafs has the Lyman on sale for $190 + shipping. Best price I've seen on these. My only affiliation with Grafs is as a regular customer :)
 
A respected competition shooter in our area soaks his barrels with sweets. He stated for chrome moly barrels he soaks for one hour and for stainless barrels he soaks overnight. He also stated that he doesn't let the sweets dry out in the barrel but he did't say how he does that. Your thoughts.
Drags

I wouldn’t let Sweets or any other heavy ammonia cleaner sit in my barrels very long at all due to potential for etching the steel. But I do not use Sweet’s or anything similar. There are other copper removers that are more effective than Sweet’s and are advertised as barrel safe.
 
Three different situations:

a. benchrest shooters
b. varmint shooter, guy that shoots 600-1000 rounds of center fire a day on a p. dog town
c. deer hunter that shoots a 7 RM-28 Nosler, fired 40 shots at the rifle range working up loads.

These three situations demand a very different cleaning regiment.

The latter two, require more JB, JB Red, or Montana Extreme Copper cream with good brushes and the best of the copper solvents as a test to see if JB got all the copper out.
 
Come on bro every body knows I shoot factory rifles.
Some even say I shoot them quite well.

I never even knew a gunsmith until bout 9 months ago. lol
Although i did go hunting with a barrel maker by the name of Donnelly once. I believe there was a stock maker and engraver there also.

We'll see if i change my ways after i get this blank chambered.
I still have one of Donnelly's barrels. Was he from G pass
 
And a brass brush will beat a nylon one every time.

I totally agree that the mechanical action of a bronze brush helps prevent a carbon ring from forming and is superior to removing carbon fouling. I believe in this so much that I use the two part Bore Tech solvent system, i.e. C2 Carbon Removal w/ bronze brush first then followed (after dry patching) by Cu+4 with a nylon brush rather than their one step solvent system, i.e. Eliminator.
 
Bronze brushers-- straight out, remove repeat? Reverse when through the entire barrel running it back over the crown? Reverse in the barrel, say at the first 4-5 inches?
 

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