Barrel break-in on a SPS Remington

[H2OBUG]

I will be doing a barrel break-in on my new SPS-V 7MM-08 the isue is when I did the break -in on my new 700ADL .243 a few months back-- the first few rounds a Grey funk that looked like mud came out in the cleaning process--I even cleaned and brushed it prior to shooting (the first time)--I am assuming this is that rough blue/black that reminington now finishes their guns with comming out of the barrel as the rounds are fired..Is there any way to get most of that out before fireing--other than maybe lapping?? Just to be clear this is comming out during cleaning between rounds not when I shoot.

Anyone else delt with this

The ADL cleaned up nice after about 20 rounds

I want to try to get as much as I can out of these factory tubes.

 

[dragman]

factory barrels are hit or miss! I am a firm believer of 1 shot 1 complete cleaning for at least 10 rounds. then 3 shot groups with cleanings after each group 5 times in a row. sometimes barrels come alive after 5-6 shots sometimes they take 40-50 and with factory I have seen them NEVER come around. there are tons of cleaning supplies and technics gotta find what works for you and your guns I guess.

 

[coues52]

just a thought..I did the usual break-in ,then I used the "Tubb final finish" bullets..cleans up quick and alot fewer patches..for a factory tube, shoots very well..also I only used 1/2 the kit 25 rds..the kit only cost $27. from midway..this was with a 308 sps~Danny

 

[jonbearman]

I clean and scrub like normal initially and then when I am done with hoppes or whatever you like,I follow with Iosso paste to get any tuff stuff out from manufacturing.

 

[Klong]

I just hand lap mine with JB compound. I start with the grey and finish with the red. I take a new factory barrel and run 3 set of 50 time throught he barrel one way . I do not pull back or pull back through the muzzle. I then go shoot1 round and clean with gray using ten strokes one way. I then shoot one and clean with Butch's and if there is no significant fouling , I shoot 5 rounds and clean again with Buch's.If there is significant fouling, I will do 50 more one way strokes with gray compound. If there is no significant fouling, I do 3 set of 25 once through with red.

I have a bore scope so I can see this process from inside the barrel. Using the bore scope, If the barrel fouls just in front of the chamber, I will use the gray and work the patch back and forth for about 8" to polish out the area. I finish with the red compound. For non-magnum calibers I can clean every hundred rounds after this process.

 

[brian427cobra]

Bolt up
Bolt back
Bolt foward and push the round in
Bolt down
Shoot
Repeat

I'm a firm beleaver that a barrel either shoots or it doesn't, cleaning shooting cleaning shooting bla bla bla doesn't scientifically do anything.

 

[H2OBUG]

All I used to clean it was wipe out -- no abrasives

 

[boa454]

mate if you want it to shoot accurately, CLEANLINESS IS NEXT TO GODLINESS!
for running the barrel in i recomend:
1 shot, wet patch bore eliminator/hoppes let soak for 5 mins, 10 passes with a nylon brush, 10 dry patches, 1 patch gun oil (ensures no bore solvent residue as once it dries it attracts moisture which is a bitch!) another 5 dry patches.
i do this for 10 rounds then shoot a group of 3 and clean it exact same way, if its still fouling really bad i go back to the one shot and clean process.....i know its time consuming and tedious but hey, why spend money on a good rifle if your going to treat it poorly? do it right from the start and it will shoot great for you
i steer clear of anything that has the word ABRASIVE attached to it, im not too sure the what the benefit of ripping something abrasive down your barrel really is...theres no such thing as a good "shortcut" when it comes to rifles!

 

[Win94ae]

Scientifically speaking...

Shilen:By and large, we don't think breaking-in a new barrel is a big deal. All our stainless steel barrels have been hand lapped as part of their production, as well as any chrome moly barrel we install. Hand lapping a barrel polishes the interior of the barrel and eliminates sharp edges or burrs that could cause jacket deformity. This, in fact, is what you are doing when you break-in a new barrel through firing and cleaning.

...and...

Krieger: Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file. When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat. If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat “polished” without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the "fire-one-shot-and-clean" procedure.

Here is my 28 year old Win94ae 30-30 throat before a break-in procedure. (Not mirror like.)

Here it is after the barrel break-in. (Mirror like.)

The reason to break-in a barrel is to reduce copper fouling; in-which, it will shoot precise longer before needing cleaning.

I use Sweets or similar to clean for copper, and Hoppes to clean for carbon during break-in.