How many rounds for barrel break-in?

[Erik Cortina]

I always am entertained by barrel break-in threads. When a response starts out something like this: "my barrel is hand lapped so there is no need to break it in" I know that person has no clue why some of us break-in our custom barrels. Accordingly, I always like to make everyone aware of the discussion at the link below:

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In__Cleaning-c1246-wp2558.htm

I think this explanation provided by the folks at Krieger Barrels gives the most complete and compelling reason for breaking in a barrel. It makes sense to me.

I knew that, but if you know that, you can deal with it before putting a single bullet down the bore. Bottom line is that there are burrs left in the throat by the reamer, so simply deburr the throat and move on.


I follow German Salazar's barrel break in procedure step by step.
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/11/equipment-barrel-break-in.html

I keep coming up with a BLANK page. Where did the Article go?

It is not a blank page, it's his detailed barrel break in procedure!
Scroll to the bottom of the page and you will see "...and that's all there is to it."

 

[artbosco]

How clever. He does nothing. Just shoots. I would think he would at least do an initial cleaning. 8)

 

[wolley]

How clever. He does nothing. Just shoots. I would think he would at least do an initial cleaning. 8)

Yep. Clean once with a solvent soaked patch. Just to remove anything the gunsmith left behind.
I've been through a few premium barrels and have NEVER seen copper until the throat gets alligatory.
I've never seen the velocity increase either. As a matter of record I usually see a slight decrease towards that last 1/4 of the barrel's life.
Of course I don't shoot hyper-velocity barrel burning calibers either. 223 and 308, Palma and Service Rifle only.

 

[savageshooter86]

I don't know how the barrel would have done with OUT breaking it in, but it took me 14 shots to do so and my barrel coppers minimally for a long time. Just cleaned and had 0ver 180 rounds and hardly any blue came out on patches. Now my other barrel(SAvage factory 8)) would copper so bad after just 10 shots and would just get worse

And this barrel shoots very well for me

 

[blairf]

I always am entertained by barrel break-in threads. When a response starts out something like this: "my barrel is hand lapped so there is no need to break it in" I know that person has no clue why some of us break-in our custom barrels. Accordingly, I always like to make everyone aware of the discussion at the link below:

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Break_In__Cleaning-c1246-wp2558.htm

I think this explanation provided by the folks at Krieger Barrels gives the most complete and compelling reason for breaking in a barrel. It makes sense to me.

I knew that, but if you know that, you can deal with it before putting a single bullet down the bore. Bottom line is that there are burrs left in the throat by the reamer, so simply deburr the throat and move on.


I follow German Salazar's barrel break in procedure step by step.
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/11/equipment-barrel-break-in.html

I keep coming up with a BLANK page. Where did the Article go?

It is not a blank page, it's his detailed barrel break in procedure!
Scroll to the bottom of the page and you will see "...and that's all there is to it."

Classic !! Love the article............. 8)

 

[Geronimo Jim]

..............blank page.............I get it.

 

[6xcshooter]

+1 Erik agree with you

 

[CatShooter]

I follow German Salazar's barrel break in procedure step by step.
http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/11/equipment-barrel-break-in.html

Made me laugh out loud!!

You are right on.

Written by Gail McMillan, one of the most famous barrel makers ever:

http://www.6mmbr.com/gailmcmbreakin.html

 

[DocUSMCRetired]

I follow the shoot one, clean one for the first 10 rounds, then shoot 3 round groups until it cleans up on paper. Once the groups are solid, I fire 20 rounds and clean it.

I read that article about just fire 5, and move on... Very interesting. I have always followed the smiths guidance, which was 10 rounds, then start shooting groups. If the groups are solid, then go about shooting normal.

 

[338 Mollett]

If you polish the throat you can reduce the amount of break-in shots.

 

[fdshuster]

All barrels are different, therefore, they require different break-in procedures.

I've had new Kriegers that continued to copper (as verified with my borescope) for up to 25 rounds fired, just as I've had new Kriegers that never left a trace of copper from the first shot fired. The former received cleaning after each 1 to 3 shots fired to #25, and the latter basic cleaning only after 5 or 10 shots fired.

Do you really want to blindly be "cleaning" a new custom barrel that is not copper fouling, burning up ammunition, and barrel life? This is one place where "one size fits all" is not a good idea.

If the chamber is cut with a properly fitted piloted reamer, there will be no cross reamer marks left on the leade, so no "break-in" required there either.

As far as factory barrels go, it's all a crap shoot.

 

[jonbearman]

After reading the kreiger,pac-nor, shilen ad nauseum I will continue to do what I feel is pertinent. This is no argument, it is supposed to be ideas from posters and as always there are a few who love to argue. Its like a union meeting,LOL

 

[Coolhand]

Gale McMillan's point of view on barrel break in procedures is worth a read, http://www.6mmbr.com/gailmcmbreakin.html

regards
Mike.

 

[jaybray]

I just fired the first 2 shots through my brand new 8 twist Krieger. Fired one then cleaned out carbon followed by wipe out and zero blue came out. Fired second shot and again zero blue on the patch. Should I call it good and go for it?

 

[ShootDots]

I just fired the first 2 shots through my brand new 8 twist Krieger. Fired one then cleaned out carbon followed by wipe out and zero blue came out. Fired second shot and again zero blue on the patch. Should I call it good and go for it?

As far as "Coppering Up" is concerned, you are good to go.. However, "generally speaking" as the barrel "breaks in" somewhere in the vicinity of 100-150 rounds, they have a tendency to speed up. I have had barrels go as high as 120f.p.s. faster than new. I have also had them speed up hardly past 25f.p.s. But you can expect some velocity increase.. After they "settle down" you can begin load development in earnest..

 

[jaybray]

Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear. -20 is Way to cold to be cleaning barrels outside every shot.

 

[ShootDots]

Thanks, that's what I wanted to hear. -20 is Way to cold to be cleaning barrels outside every shot.

It is way too cold for load development too! Even our so called "extreme" powders are going to be affected from that temp to even say 20 or so above! From your winter to your summer, the temps may virtually invalidate any loads you may have developed in the cold..

 

[jaybray]

I hear ya. That is around our average temperature up until April with many days that will dip close to double that figure. I usually keep my ammo in the truck and then fire one off and return to the truck. Range days pass the time.

 

[Joe Salt]

ShootDots When you break in a barrel why not find out where you are at as far as load development and kill two birds with one stone. I go half grain increments to find out how hot I can go with said barrel. This is threw a chronograph so know I have a good starting load, and I have it all figured out while breaking in the barrel. But us dumb old guys don't know anything! Oh one other thing before I start that I JB and Flitz the throat then clean that up with Kroil. Just to take out any machine marks and to let myself know I tried. Works for me!

Joe Salt

 

[ShootDots]

ShootDots When you break in a barrel why not find out where you are at as far as load development and kill two birds with one stone. I go half grain increments to find out how hot I can go with said barrel. This is threw a chronograph so know I have a good starting load, and I have it all figured out while breaking in the barrel. But us dumb old guys don't know anything! Oh one other thing before I start that I JB and Flitz the throat then clean that up with Kroil. Just to take out any machine marks and to let myself know I tried. Works for me!

Joe Salt

I would do that except for one item... What I do is load up a decent known load and go fire a match.. Prior to the match, I get the barrel "coppered out" so to speak, work up some load that may work and shoot about 30 rounds down the bore and get it sighted in. Then I go to the match.. That will put about 125+ rounds down the bore. After that, I start load development. A good example was when I fireformed 130 pieces of 6mmBR brass into Dasher brass. I first fireformed 30 pieces for later load development. With 30.0grs of N540 and 105Berger VLD's the rifle was accurate enough to shoot a 600 yard match. I shot a 595-26X's with my fireforming load. 2 of the 5 I dropped were from blown / split shoulders that did not form, they simply split and the 105's went straight to the 9 ring at 6 o'clock. I try and do that with every barrel I get. I chrono them from the start and see where they chrono when I begin load development.