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Balancing your handwheels

carlsbad

carlsbad

Lions don't lose sleep over the opinions of sheep.
Anybody balance their handwheels? I've been meaning to do this for a while but keep tossing around methods in my head that will be least intrusive. I'm tired of the weight of the handle affecting feel.
 
carlsbad said:
Anybody balance their handwheels?
Click to expand...

I have rocks that spin on the end of shafts, I have pedicel grinders, angle headed grinders etc. I also have a strobe balancer. There was a time I when I thought I could balance it if I could get it to spin.

There is a chance I do not have a hand wheel.

F. Guffey
 
fguffey said:
I have rocks that spin on the end of shafts, I have pedicel grinders, angle headed grinders etc. I also have a strobe balancer. There was a time I when I thought I could balance it if I could get it to spin.

There is a chance I do not have a hand wheel.

F. Guffey
Click to expand...


Insert frav'rite 80's reference to "sit on it and spin" here......
 
alinwa said:
Insert frav'rite 80's reference to "sit on it and spin" here......
Click to expand...

and someone asked me about RPMs; I removed what seemed to him some strange looking tools. Problem, I could not convince him it was possible to determine RPMs with something other than a tachometer.

F. Guffey
 
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Dave, Goal is that you let go of the handwheel on both the tailstock and the carriage, and they stay where they are. On my lathe, these two actions are smooth enough that the weight of the screw in knob causes the handwheel to want to turn. When drilling a small hole with the tailstock, or even reaming a chamber, it takes more torque when the pivot is going up than when it is coming down. I'll figure something out. --Jerry
 
carlsbad said:
Dave, Goal is that you let go of the handwheel on both the tailstock and the carriage, and they stay where they are. On my lathe, these two actions are smooth enough that the weight of the screw in knob causes the handwheel to want to turn. When drilling a small hole with the tailstock, or even reaming a chamber, it takes more torque when the pivot is going up than when it is coming down. I'll figure something out. --Jerry
Click to expand...
the handwheel on my cross slide has this problem. it is because of the backlash on mine. if i happen to stop the handwheel turning it clockwise with the handle say at 11 oclock the weight of the handle will case the handwheel to move counter clockwise to take up backlash or a little more probably-- i didnt know what was causing it at first. its a pain when trying to work to a certain dimension thats for sure. mabie a good reason to install a DRO in my case. .
 
A second handle.

Drill for weight removal,add weight on opposing side.

Rubber or ? lined sliding sleeves.

Heck,I'm usually in such a hurry using one of our lathes,the handles don't turn fast enough?Good luck with your project.
 
carlsbad said:
Dave, Goal is that you let go of the handwheel on both the tailstock and the carriage, and they stay where they are. On my lathe, these two actions are smooth enough that the weight of the screw in knob causes the handwheel to want to turn. When drilling a small hole with the tailstock, or even reaming a chamber, it takes more torque when the pivot is going up than when it is coming down. I'll figure something out. --Jerry
Click to expand...
i was actually thinking of a lightweight handle but really a way to provide a little resistance to keep the wheel from moving is what i want
 
sometimes there is a split nut of some sort on the crossfeed that you can tighten. Also, the gibbs can be adjusted too. For the tail stock, simply lock down the quill lock with a little pressure to provide the resistance. Never heard of balancing a handwheel...
 
ridgeway said:
sometimes there is a split nut of some sort on the crossfeed that you can tighten. Also, the gibbs can be adjusted too. For the tail stock, simply lock down the quill lock with a little pressure to provide the resistance. Never heard of balancing a handwheel...
Click to expand...
i never heard of balancing a handwheel either. i thought of adjusting the gibbs and ill look for the split nut --Thanks alot
 
If I were balancing a handwheel, I'd get me some lead golfer's tape..... or golfer's lead tape.....or the lead tape golfers use..... ain't sure what it's called as I don't golf.
 
I have thought about it for my heavy 10. I chamber of of the tool lost and it definitely moves freely enough that the handle being unevenly balanced makes a difference. Also with threading when it passes top dead center. I apply slight pressure against the direction of feed.
 
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