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Bad thing about Nightforce BR Scope

The parallax adjustment ring the graduations are so far off if you set it at 200yds and look for the 200yd target board you can not find it. I contacted Nightforce about it and the tech said normal. How ever when you set parallax the scope is clear as a bell. I have a 12-42x56 BR it only has 40 MOA of e adjustment with a 20MOA base I can center the reticle at 1000yds but not at 200yds for load testing I have to count up 3 marks with the e knob turned down all the way. The good thing about the adjustment is you can take a tape and measure to the target go back and turn the knob and it is right on.
 
Well, that limited amount of adjustment is an issue in a lot of scopes, and it's the reason they make 20, 25 and 30 minute slope scope mounts.

A 20 minute rail worked fine for 6.5 X 284 and .308 allowing for a 100 yard zero and got me to 1,000 yards.
 
Hey Rust,
What scope are you using? I have found that the scope needs to have a minimum of 48 MOA elevation to be able to go down to 100 yds with a 20 MOA base.

Gary.
 
Buzzard, Is this the case with the ocular lens having the reticules in perfect registration?
I know sometimes different eye focal lengths will grossly effect where one needs to set the adj objective lens. I'm curios, where is the mark for the ocular lens indexed, +/=/-? I hope this gets ironed out for you and I don't intend to sound condescending, I am truly trying to help or understand. Personally I don't think I've ever looked to see where the objective setting was, just looked through and focused. I'll look at mine when I get home. These are pretty remarkable scopes otherwise. Let me know how it turns out.
Jim
 
Having the reticle very near the optical center,center of actual cell movement) when 'on' at 1000 yards is my goal. That means that I cannot be on at 100 but can be on at 600 yards.
I use inclined bases and Burris Signature rings and get real close to where I want to have the crosshairs at 1000 yards.
I staple up one aiming point at 100 yards and shoot groups on paper someplace above that. Works for me.

Jay, Idaho
 
buzzard,

The bit with the numbers on the front parallax adjustment ring lining up is common across various brands. The numbers are essentially just there for decoration as far as I'm concerned - they rarely if ever line up for various yardages. Some brands/models just dispense with the numbers and have a series of hash marks,like the NXS scopes) for pretty much that reason.

Focus your eye piece so the reticle is clear and sharp *first*. Then adjust the parallax so that you have no movement of the crosshair while checking the parallax. Depending on the focus,which has to do with *your* eyes) the target image may, or may not be, perfectly sharp. As long as your reticle is sharp/clear, and parallax is minimal, you'll be fine.

Monte
 
Ok Guys hear is the thing I have a Leapers accushot 8-32x56 side parallax adjust you can buy this scope for $209.98 and adjust the parallax to a chrystal clear and range the target and the graduations are right on I just checked it with my Leupold RX-IV Now tell me why you can't do this with a scope that cost over $ 1,300.00 is some thing wrong here I think so.
 
Believe what you want... but I think you got lucky, nothing more. Leapers does cater to the air-gun market where some people use the parallax adjust for ranging in Field Target shooting - maybe Leapers went to some effort to make it correct. If you think that scope is the equal of the Night Force, then more power to you. Let us know how that works out for ya.
 
I have one of those Leepers on a factory .223. It isn't anywhere close to my Nightforces, but you know it isn't too awful bad either. My paralax numbers are close, but not perfect, neither are my Nightforces, but I just zero the paralax at different yardages and put little dots of white fingernail polish on the adjustment and then I'm G.T.G.
So far it's tracking perfectly going in and out to various yardages, and it's pretty clear even cranked up to 32 power. I keep waiting for it to fail, but so far it hasn't yet. The biggest P.I.T.A. is the stupid windage and elevation knob locks, but I just leave them loose, and the scopes never moved, so I guess it's a non issue. For a field scope it's working out pretty well. If it gets dropped and banged up no great loss, I'm only out $200 bucks. If I dropped one of my Nightforces I'd be sick for a month!

Danny
 

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