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Bad news for lovers of Kroil......

Now about that torch.....I was shown a trick with stuck
truck king pins. Heat the area evenly and melt in some
bees wax. The guy that showed me was an engineer on
the Lake Freighters. The old timers kept blocks of the
stuff in the engine room.

How hot we talking here; just starting to glow, or on the verge of becoming a liquid?
 
How hot we talking here; just starting to glow, or on the verge of becoming a liquid?
Not sure about king pins but if it is a pipe fitting you heat the cup of the fitting first to a dull red then the pipe, then add the wax. The heated fitting draws the wax in by capillary action...like brazing or soldering.
 
Never had to put any color into the forging. Maybe just
above the melting point of pure lead. You want to try to
get as little heat as you can on the pin itself. Put the wax
to it, and let it seep in while working the steering. Air
hammer works nicely when you don't have a lot of swing
room.
 
Free All, a modern 21st century penetrating oil. Contact the company, they have super cheap postage.

You can get Free All, in an Aerosol and a 14 Oz finger pumper spray can....one can goes a long way.

Get ready for a shock when using Free All on rusted bolts, tires, front end parts, etc.

Free All is great for breaking loose carbon in barrels also, hard caked on carbon...takes time. I bought a 308 off of this site that was an F class barrel, with carbon from breach to muzzle...hard to believe. I was able to get the barrel down to bare metal with Free All, soak, then brush with bronze brush...took soaking time in between brushing.
 
Speaking as someone who spent the first 15 years of his working life as a rust belt auto mechanic, you guys don't know what rust is! That penetrating oil evaluation video, those nuts and bolts look like the underside of a 6-month old car around here. You haven't seen rust until you've been under a ten year old vehicle that's been exposed to road salt, brine solution, 10 years of temperature and dew point cycles virtually every day of it's life. Around here, penetrating oil is simply a waste of time and money.

And yes...it took me 15 years to figure out I could have a much better life doing something else for a living. They lied to me in high school...

:)
 
Speaking as someone who spent the first 15 years of his working life as a rust belt auto mechanic, you guys don't know what rust is! That penetrating oil evaluation video, those nuts and bolts look like the underside of a 6-month old car around here. You haven't seen rust until you've been under a ten year old vehicle that's been exposed to road salt, brine solution, 10 years of temperature and dew point cycles virtually every day of it's life. Around here, penetrating oil is simply a waste of time and money.

And yes...it took me 15 years to figure out I could have a much better life doing something else for a living. They lied to me in high school...

:)
Up here in north western Pa it's prime rust belt property.
I never believed in getting the rust coatings applied, but
on the second year of ownership. I get them oiled. It's a
way of life up here.
 
I recently tried Superzilla. No real odor. Soaked it’s way through rust pretty quickly. Also removed latex paint that was around the rust, so be careful. Not saying it’s better, but worth a look.
 
I had a door hinge that froze up/ rusted when the door was not used for several months. Used most of the products mentioned and a bunch more. Nothing worked. The light came on and close a year later it still works fine.....HOBO OIL.
 
Torch and a big hammer.....

I bought a case of "Free' from our tool vender years
ago. It does work better then PB and smells better.
Label on the can is vender specific and not found in
normal retail. An oil called "Free All" can be found at
Auto Zone, and does work well.

Now about that torch.....I was shown a trick with stuck
truck king pins. Heat the area evenly and melt in some
bees wax. The guy that showed me was an engineer on
the Lake Freighters. The old timers kept blocks of the
stuff in the engine room.
I've got stuck brake bleeder plugs out with this trick.
 
Fluid Film, I have that and I wonder how it would work as a firearm long term preservative and rust preventative.

At one time in my life I had to leave a rifle, an 1894 Winchester, for a year in a high humidity environment. The only thing I could get as a preservative was some cheap 30W engine oil. When I got back to it a year later the oil had turned a milky white and the steel had rusted under the oil. It seems the oil emulsified the moisture in the air it had contact with.
 
A friend and I were restoring a Chrystler Airflow back in the 60's that had been buried axle deep in a farmer's field. Lug nuts and bolts would not budge with whatever we tried. Old mechanic we knew told us to soak in the 50/50 mixture of ATF/Acetone for 24 hours. That did the trick! Ever since then that is what I use. I am sure all the other stuff probably works but this mix is cheap and easy to use, and you can find the ingredients easily. It also makes a great all-purpose lubricant. When the acetone flashes off it leaves a very light coat of oil.
 
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I have read on this and other forums guys using Kroil for barrel cleaning.
While it may be fine for removing rusted nuts I have found that it does absolutely
nothing to help the removing copper or carbon in a barrel.
 
Yes, most of our mains are run in Victaulic
To meet code for an addition at my old tool shop, I had a
fitter from GE to do the work on the side. All Victaulic
fittings. One thing that caught my attention was the use
of Crisco on the gasketing !!
 
The few times I ran across Victaulic on the job they were using a brown vegetable based lube... but Crisco doesn't sound right.
 

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