Aw hell, I fell for the 20s.

[JSH]

Table......'DogBuster table'

This one is 20+ yrs old and still does the job

Some hate the Choate stocks. I have them now on a half dozen rifles. They have all worked well for me. I filled the buttstock and grip with #9 shot. Then on the rail up front got a piece of 1/2”x4” flat bar, drilled and tapped a sling swivel stud for bipod. My Savage full bull Shilen barrel with all the added weight weighs right around 36 pounds. Now no need for a spotter and I get to see ALL of the airieal shows.

I hope I can burn up this stupid factory 204 barrel next year so I can get a new hunk of pipe. ;-)

 

[RegionRat]

@slancey Those screen captures are from a ShotMarker e-target.

https://www.autotrickler.com/shotmarker.html

Same guy that makes the AutoTrickler/AutoThrow powder dispenser makes that target system.

 

[slancey]

Wow, that is really sophisticated. I don't run in the target shooting circles, so this is a new one for me.

 

[RegionRat]

Wow, that is really sophisticated. I don't run in the target shooting circles, so this is a new one for me.

You don't have to be a match shooter to really benefit from the ShotMarker.

Those of us that have our own, use it for load development and practice. This thing has made my life much easier and I highly recommend one if you can.

No need to go down and change targets or set up a spotting scope. You have the data in an Excel file and you can snapshot the target images for your records.

The unit gives a velocity at the target as well. That has come in very handy for understanding real world BC and trajectory dope.

When it comes to paper at distances out past 300 yards, I used to use remote TV cameras and such, but sometimes you couldn't see bullet holes in standard targets with a TV just depending on the lighting. With Shot Marker, I shoot at 600 or 1000 without needing to go downrange till I am done. My target cameras have been collecting dust since I got the ShotMarker.

 

[232]

KY Windage,

Curious as to what "break-down suppressor" you are using.

 

[KY_Windage]

KY Windage,

Curious as to what "break-down suppressor" you are using.

Banish, made by Mack Brothers in Sturgis, sold by Silencer Central in Sioux Falls, SD, formerly Dakota Silencer. I have one in 30-cal. and one in .223. Wouldn't trade either for two of anything else. Had a sealed can before and would not go that route again.

I recently found this guy:

explaining how to build a better drum for the the Chicago Rock Tumbler. I am using it (with SS pins in water for media) to clean my suppressor innards now and I'm in HOG HEAVEN.

 

[232]

Thanks for the info. Will give them some consideration on my next purchase. I do have sealed cans that I have no problem with, and if they do get dirty to the point of degraded suppression, they will be taken care of gratis by the makers.

Rimfire cans do need to be take or break down as they get extremely dirty with lead and waxy crud fouling. Even so, there is no need to have the innards squeaky clean, and some have shown that some residue left on baffles make them quieter. By I assume a dampening effect.

OP, sorry for the side track. I do love the 20's, and my next project will be an AR 20practical.

 

[KY_Windage]

My objection to sealed cans is pretty minor. Mainly that I do not want to have the risk of a lost package in the mail (or FedEx, etc.) every year or two, even if the cleaning is free. You can insure the item but not the time it takes to replace it. Plus, it is very easy to get a little carried away with the rate of fire and toast a rear baffle. With my Banish it is cheap and easy to replace a baffle. With a sealed can it is so expensive that you are probably going to just live with it. Not a big deal and completely avoidable if you are careful to not get your suppressor too hot.

Sometime I pretend I have a sealed can and go a thousand rounds without cleaning. It is pretty shocking how much carbon builds up inside. It builds up and then breaks off in chunks. Having those rattling around inside until they break up from impacts can't be conducive to good accuracy, I would think.

Logic tells me that dirty baffles should suppress more sound than spic-n-span ones, but I have to say that I never notice the difference, even when shooting with minimal ear protection. The main thing is, GET SOME KIND OF SUPPRESSOR, as fast as you can. You can't believe how much more pleasant it makes your 20 to shoot.

I shot three 5-shot groups today at 100 yds with the 204 and 223 Banish and this was the best one. It measured just under .25 MoA, which is typical. I shoot at a couple of busy ranges so I see a lot of guys shooting all kinds of cans, trying to get tight groups. The only one I have ever seen consistently shoot groups like I do is a friend who also shoots a Banish on his 20V. With the suppressor off my 204 is a half-minute rifle. That's another reason I say, get a suppressor!