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At what pressure will gunpowder ignite????

Smokeless powder is not a high explosive that detonates from a shock wave.

it’s is very fast combustion and needs heat to start the “burning”.

otherwise, we wouldn’t need primers. Just force on the load to ignite which is not the case.

explosives and smokeless powder generate force from two very diff processes.

now, I’m open to be proven wrong as I’m not a chemical engineer.
 
The ONLY safe method is to use grease.
You pack the barrel about 1/2 full then with a rod close to the land width and flat ended, you tap it, and the grease does the work.
The primer igniting is a real danger if the bullet is impacted directly, the grease will only force around the bullet, it may push back into the case, but seeing as there is no direct force from the rod, it is rare that the cartridge will detonate.
Hope this helps.

Cheers.
Interesting. And this method would solve the gas port problem of an AR. And he could still use his press to push the rod. Maybe a rod with a couple "o" rings would even be better?
 
Really no need for ‘O’ rings, as the grease seals the bore pretty good as it can’t be compressed.
Use the same method removing bearings/bushes and the like when there is no opening at the rear, the grease forces it way behind and pushes them out if heat doesn’t do the job first.

Cheers.
 
Just curious how you could.possibly jam a round into the chamber that tight?
Take a case fired in another rifle with a generous chamber, neck size and load; letting the bolt carrier group slam the round into the tight match chamber will result in a stuck case. It's very similar to getting an un-lubricated case stuck in a sizing die.
 
I would drill a hole in a long brass rod so the rod seats on the bullet nose. That way the rod will not mushroom the bullet. It would be best to remove the handguard so you can clamp the barrel in a padded vice. If you are lucky the stuck case will come out before you drive the bullet into the case. If the bullet is driven into the case you will probably have to drive it all the way to the base of the case to get the case out.

The grease gun idea is good but you will need to remove the gas block and block the gas port with a piece of brass held in place with a hose clamp. The grease gun will drive the bullet into the case. The grease gun is the ultimate press as it can generate 10,000 psi pressure.
 
I would drill a hole in a long brass rod so the rod seats on the bullet nose. That way the rod will not mushroom the bullet. It would be best to remove the handguard so you can clamp the barrel in a padded vice. If you are lucky the stuck case will come out before you drive the bullet into the case. If the bullet is driven into the case you will probably have to drive it all the way to the base of the case to get the case out.

The grease gun idea is good but you will need to remove the gas block and block the gas port with a piece of brass held in place with a hose clamp. The grease gun will drive the bullet into the case. The grease gun is the ultimate press as it can generate 10,000 psi pressure.
Great info. I had no idea... 10,000 psi? wow! That'll start some wheels turning.
 
And the way you make a stuck round even tighter is pounding on the round while the bolt is still locked. It is a two person job to get a round freed up. One pulling back really hard on the charging handle while the other gently taps on the rod. If that doesn't work then you need to put a flat blade screwdriver in the slot at the front of the bolt and receiver. You have to be careful you don't put too big a ding in the aluminum receiver.
 
And the way you make a stuck round even tighter is pounding on the round while the bolt is still locked. It is a two person job to get a round freed up. One pulling back really hard on the charging handle while the other gently taps on the rod. If that doesn't work then you need to put a flat blade screwdriver in the slot at the front of the bolt and receiver. You have to be careful you don't put too big a ding in the aluminum receiver.
Every AR ive ever seen has a feature to lock the bolt open. Its also easy to just remove the bolt and carrier so nobody has to hold it open
 
How about putting the upper in a freezer for at least a day and then trying to push it out from the muzzle. Brass and steel have different expand and shrink properties when subjected to extreme temps. The phrase "cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey" come to mind. A brass monkey was a device made of brass with indentions used on old naval ships to stack cannon balls on. During periods of extreme cold, they would shrink enough to to cause the cannon balls to fall off the monkey, hence the term.
 
Every AR ive ever seen has a feature to lock the bolt open. Its also easy to just remove the bolt and carrier so nobody has to hold it open
Different scenario described above, or earlier in the process than what the OP has. Bolt In the locked/chambered position

The bolt carrier won’t lock open until you can rip the extractor over the rim of the case and if the bolt has rotated that is hard to do.

If the bolt has not rotated enough, the carrier may not be forward enough to allow the upper to be separated from the lower.

All depends on how deep in the chamber the cartridge stuck.

The mortaring method was developed for a reason.
 

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